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help needed with coil spring removal

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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 12:20 AM
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Default help needed with coil spring removal

Son and I bought a project truck (1995 f150 4X4 supercab) to spend more time together. Replaced alot so far. Need to replace coils and towers. The bottom bolt for the spring is rusted tight. Tried 1.125 inch box wrench and moved nut a few turns but now it is smoothing out. Need some help how to get this off or any advise on next steps. Thinking of cutting spring to get more room with this nut. Hoping the bolt/stud does not sheer off.
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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 12:22 AM
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Chris
 
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PBlaster FTW! soak that bitch with some PB, maybe heat her up with a torch.
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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 12:15 PM
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Heat it up with MAP torch and cut springs to get more room.
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 08:08 AM
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I had it soaking for a few days with PB. Might try a torch. Never tried a torck on any rusted bolts befor- always got them with elbow grease int he past. Not sure if the coil spring is easily cut? Any hint there. It would free up space. Do you know if the bolt is really 1.125. Or is it 28mm? I used 1.125 inch on it and thoght it would be ok, now I am rounding the bolt. A last resort I was thinking was to just replace the whole front arems all together. truck is a 4X4 so it seems like a drastic amount of work, but I want the final product to be a nice ride. It is a project. We both are learning ont he way.
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by rgif
I had it soaking for a few days with PB. Might try a torch. Never tried a torck on any rusted bolts befor- always got them with elbow grease int he past. Not sure if the coil spring is easily cut? Any hint there. It would free up space. Do you know if the bolt is really 1.125. Or is it 28mm? I used 1.125 inch on it and thoght it would be ok, now I am rounding the bolt. A last resort I was thinking was to just replace the whole front arems all together. truck is a 4X4 so it seems like a drastic amount of work, but I want the final product to be a nice ride. It is a project. We both are learning ont he way.
Use angle grinder on the coil spring, then use 1" and 1/8" six point deep socket on the nut with a breaker bar. Thats how I took of my spring nuts on rusted out 94 F150.
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 08:50 AM
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Thank - that will be the plan for today when the son wakes up. Project has been entire rear suspension, scraped down and painted chassis, replaced one gas tank, total inerior -seats, painted plastic sidings and dash, new Carpet and headliner and stereo. Now working on the front all winter long. Hope to paint and get on the road by end of summer. Putting alot of money into her. She has alot of rust. Any guidance available will help us miss the common mistakes.
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 10:21 PM
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i welded a 6 foot 1" steel rod to the socket to make a big *** breaker bar after 3 days of PBlaster soak and I still needed to heat the nut up with a torch to break one side loose.


Ahhhh, the joys of working on a 20 year old truck!
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 07:13 PM
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Mrs. W
 
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i'm glad my truck leaks oil and blows it all over. mine were sooo easy to change because everything was all oiled up nice already while all the rest of you have the hardest time getting yours loose
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 07:53 PM
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Thanks for all the help. I grinded off the spring and heated the bolt for some time. Used the 1.125 inch 6 star socket with breaker bar and long pipe and it worked well. Took some doing but seemed to come off. Now to grid off the rivets of the towers and get the rusted shock off and put it all back together.
I am thinking of replacing the brake calipers. I already ran all new stainles steal tube breaklines throughout. The master pump ran dry when the old lines leaked. Thinking of replacing that too but not sure if it is too hard to do. Any ideas on calipers and master pump? Also what else should I change while I am down there in the front. I would like it to ride nece wehen done.
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