Lightbar to Highbeam Control
I have searched and searched and can't seem to find an answer for this one, but I'm hoping someone can help me out pretty quick.
I am installing a lightbar and have everything wired up (including relays, fuse box, etc), and wanted to trigger it off of the high beam fuse located in the passenger footwell (fuse 39). I installed a add-a-circuit tap and ran it to the relay, however it is triggered even when the truck is off. Is the high beam fuse supposed to be hot even when the truck is off? That is the only thing I can think of, unless I wired something up incorrectly. I have tried to find a wiring diagram, but no luck for the 2014. I saw a wiring diagram that showed a fuse before the high beam shutter relay, but couldn't confirm it was for a 2014 with projector headlights.
If this fuse is always hot, I was thinking of wiring it to trigger with the foglights, but would that fuse be the same case as being hot before the switch? I'm trying to keep everything in the cab looking stock or reversible.
Thanks!
I am installing a lightbar and have everything wired up (including relays, fuse box, etc), and wanted to trigger it off of the high beam fuse located in the passenger footwell (fuse 39). I installed a add-a-circuit tap and ran it to the relay, however it is triggered even when the truck is off. Is the high beam fuse supposed to be hot even when the truck is off? That is the only thing I can think of, unless I wired something up incorrectly. I have tried to find a wiring diagram, but no luck for the 2014. I saw a wiring diagram that showed a fuse before the high beam shutter relay, but couldn't confirm it was for a 2014 with projector headlights.
If this fuse is always hot, I was thinking of wiring it to trigger with the foglights, but would that fuse be the same case as being hot before the switch? I'm trying to keep everything in the cab looking stock or reversible.
Thanks!
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the power distribution box in the engine compartment is always hot. When you turn the switch for high beams, you close the circuit for the highs and open the circuit for the lows allowing it to pass from the box to the light. So you'd need to tap in after the switch. Testing the connection at the fuse should verify this for you.
If this is the case and the fuse is always hot, then something like a Posi-tap connector is easily removable to return to stock without having to cut or splice into wiring so you can easily tap in after the switch.
If this is the case and the fuse is always hot, then something like a Posi-tap connector is easily removable to return to stock without having to cut or splice into wiring so you can easily tap in after the switch.





