Let the fun begin - My 2012 King Ranch Retrofit + Planned step by step
03-06-2015, 06:05 PM
#61
Official Bass Slapper
I guess the other question would be will the morimoto ballast fit in the OEM location? And where will you put the igniter? On D3S/D1S, the igniter is on the base of the bulb, but D2S/D4S the igniter is down the cable a bit (please correct me if I'm wrong.)
03-06-2015, 07:38 PM
#62
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I really appreciate you asking questions Jeriko!
The igniters snap on to the back of the D2s Bulb. They fit fine behind the projector and the wire from the ballast will run just fine inside the housing to the ballast.
The ballast will go in the stock location IF it's mounted to something that covers the hole. I have thick poly carbonate sheets of plastic I was going to use to make them. Good Poly carbonate is heat resistant and is a complete bear to cut, you have to be very very slow with it. I have ordered aluminum plates from Joe at projectoretrofits. One of the plates was lost by USPS, the package was split wide open so I'm getting another one from Joe to replace it. Due to heat dissipation I may mount them to the aluminum plate. Which then, everything would mount inside the housing just fine.
At least thats the thought.
03-07-2015, 03:51 PM
#63
Official Bass Slapper
I really appreciate you asking questions Jeriko!
The igniters snap on to the back of the D2s Bulb. They fit fine behind the projector and the wire from the ballast will run just fine inside the housing to the ballast.
The ballast will go in the stock location IF it's mounted to something that covers the hole. I have thick poly carbonate sheets of plastic I was going to use to make them. Good Poly carbonate is heat resistant and is a complete bear to cut, you have to be very very slow with it. I have ordered aluminum plates from Joe at projectoretrofits. One of the plates was lost by USPS, the package was split wide open so I'm getting another one from Joe to replace it. Due to heat dissipation I may mount them to the aluminum plate. Which then, everything would mount inside the housing just fine.
At least thats the thought.
The igniters snap on to the back of the D2s Bulb. They fit fine behind the projector and the wire from the ballast will run just fine inside the housing to the ballast.
The ballast will go in the stock location IF it's mounted to something that covers the hole. I have thick poly carbonate sheets of plastic I was going to use to make them. Good Poly carbonate is heat resistant and is a complete bear to cut, you have to be very very slow with it. I have ordered aluminum plates from Joe at projectoretrofits. One of the plates was lost by USPS, the package was split wide open so I'm getting another one from Joe to replace it. Due to heat dissipation I may mount them to the aluminum plate. Which then, everything would mount inside the housing just fine.
At least thats the thought.
If I would have a favourite about your retro, it'd be the painted hibeam shields and demon eyes. I've seen them in before, but never have I learned how they're done. Thank you for that - I may have to copy your design and make everything blue tho.
03-09-2015, 09:23 PM
#64
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I am absolutely disappointed and pissed at myself......
I realize now just how big my mistake on the EvoX-R shield disassembly was....
When I popped them off with the screwdriver, I broke the little retaining tab that I didn't know it had... Well that little tab is extremely friggen important... Without it, the shield slides forward and I get ugly, horrid light... The shield needs to be as close to the bulb as it can get for the beautiful cutoff.
Which means... two brand new projectors are now useless until I can find a way to fix it.
Also adding spacers to the bowls don't do much for the EvoX-R for color banding. Bulb spacer would, but not bowl spacer.. Pics to follow....
I realize now just how big my mistake on the EvoX-R shield disassembly was....
When I popped them off with the screwdriver, I broke the little retaining tab that I didn't know it had... Well that little tab is extremely friggen important... Without it, the shield slides forward and I get ugly, horrid light... The shield needs to be as close to the bulb as it can get for the beautiful cutoff.
Which means... two brand new projectors are now useless until I can find a way to fix it.
Also adding spacers to the bowls don't do much for the EvoX-R for color banding. Bulb spacer would, but not bowl spacer.. Pics to follow....
03-09-2015, 09:54 PM
#65
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Here's my post on HID planet.
I'm working on a retrofit in my 2012 F150. I purchased all of my HID parts from TRS Minus the housings.
I want to do passive demon eyes. To do so, I made solenoid covers out of aluminum sheets and painted them with high temp paint...
NOW THE SCREW UP!
In taking the high beam shield off the EvoX-R, I didn't swing the high beam shield up far enough, and didn't realize it would come apart easily... Instead I used a small screwdriver to pry the two plastic pieces apart. Breaking their extremely tiny retainers that hold them together. Now, my shield doesn't sit tight against its mount, and makes for a horrible cutoff after a few actuations
Can anyone suggest how I may repair this, or do I have to start all over with new projectors? I've tried searching to no avail.
Here are the pics:
This black piece is the swivel piece I pried apart, I didn't know that if I had swung the arm up a little tiny bit more it would have come right out.
SO here's the problem... When in normal position and looking like this:
I get this (some adjustment needed but not much)
However, after the solenoid actuates a few times. The shield has moved up on it's pivot point to look like this:
Which results in this monstrosity:
I want to do passive demon eyes. To do so, I made solenoid covers out of aluminum sheets and painted them with high temp paint...
NOW THE SCREW UP!
In taking the high beam shield off the EvoX-R, I didn't swing the high beam shield up far enough, and didn't realize it would come apart easily... Instead I used a small screwdriver to pry the two plastic pieces apart. Breaking their extremely tiny retainers that hold them together. Now, my shield doesn't sit tight against its mount, and makes for a horrible cutoff after a few actuations
Can anyone suggest how I may repair this, or do I have to start all over with new projectors? I've tried searching to no avail.
Here are the pics:
This black piece is the swivel piece I pried apart, I didn't know that if I had swung the arm up a little tiny bit more it would have come right out.
SO here's the problem... When in normal position and looking like this:
I get this (some adjustment needed but not much)
However, after the solenoid actuates a few times. The shield has moved up on it's pivot point to look like this:
Which results in this monstrosity:
03-10-2015, 06:27 PM
#66
Official Bass Slapper
OUCH. I hope that's not a total loss on the projector, but that's not looking very promising. If TRS would sell individually them individually, it would lessen the pain of reordering. but DAMN that's bad. Here's hoping for you bud!
03-10-2015, 10:03 PM
#67
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The requirements for repair:
It needs to swivel freely without binding
It can't be soft plastic or anything damaged by extreme heat
I was thinking some sort of bolt and sleeve and a nut. this would require drilling the back of projector itself to gain access to what I need access to..
Alternatively, I could sell these projectors for a low cost and just eat the difference on new ones and do things properly... After this, i'm seriously considering just ditching the demon eye too. Just do a straight PTM retrofit...
*sigh*
03-10-2015, 10:12 PM
#68
I'm trying to devise a way to repair them in some way... I just haven't seen it yet. The requirements for repair: It needs to swivel freely without binding It can't be soft plastic or anything damaged by extreme heat I was thinking some sort of bolt and sleeve and a nut. this would require drilling the back of projector itself to gain access to what I need access to.. Alternatively, I could sell these projectors for a low cost and just eat the difference on new ones and do things properly... After this, i'm seriously considering just ditching the demon eye too. Just do a straight PTM retrofit... *sigh*
03-11-2015, 08:06 AM
#69
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Not so much discouragement. It's looks.
I'm not sure it's going to look right... I have the projectors mounted in the housings and have them set up on the other end of the house and I keep lookingat them at all angles.... it just looks.... wonky with such a huge lens!
With the smaller 2 and 2.5" lenses on TSX's and Mini H1's it looks awesome.. You'll only really get to see the red at certain angles without the foreground limiter that really didn't do what I wanted it to, so that is scrapped too.
03-12-2015, 04:51 PM
#70
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So after not being sure about the demon eyes, I had car guy friends that I've been through various styles with past vehicles look at them...
All of them said "Not on your truck, it just doesn't flow right with the brown (Golden Bronze)" I agree with them
I'll be ordering the replacement EvoX-R's and F150 conversion harness tomorrow... Tonight I'll be posting the current EvoXR's for sale.
Also tonight I'll have more pictures posted.
All of them said "Not on your truck, it just doesn't flow right with the brown (Golden Bronze)" I agree with them
I'll be ordering the replacement EvoX-R's and F150 conversion harness tomorrow... Tonight I'll be posting the current EvoXR's for sale.
Also tonight I'll have more pictures posted.