View Poll Results: Which year F150 do you own? We want to know which brackets to make!
2013
26
16.77%
2012
58
37.42%
2011
41
26.45%
2010
16
10.32%
2009
8
5.16%
2008
6
3.87%
Voters: 155. You may not vote on this poll
I am a Rigid Industries Employee with exstensive product knowledge. Ask me anything!
10-19-2012, 12:47 PM
#21
Meaner than ymeski56
Originally Posted by Blue King
I was thinking of that too but trying to avoid it if I can. I think a 30" at the bottom of the grill would look BA!
10-19-2012, 12:57 PM
#22
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Rigid Industries Rep
Hi guys! Sorry for the delay, I was out and under the weather yesterday... Let's get these answered!
--
Q: "Is it true that you are working on a replacement fog light that will go in the place of the stock F150 housing ?"
A: At the moment we are considering different options and our engineers have this project in their minds. Nothing as of yet, however.
--
Q: How much difference between flood and spot patterns?
A: Our Spot and Flood patterns are true to their names, however not in the way you might think. When your vehicle is moving your range of view becomes much more narrow. While stopped, the spot beam will seem very much pencil like, but at speed the beam will light up objects far down the road with a great intensity. The same goes for the Flood. At a stand still it appears also almost pencil like. However, when moving you will notice a wider range (ditch to ditch) from the spot beam, while still getting great distance.
To elaborate: The D-Series (Dually and D2) lights are very popular. To arrange them in order from pencil beam to the most spread out pattern we have would be this.
Dually Spot
Dually Flood
D2 Driving
D2 Wide
Dually Diffused
D2 Diffused
My recommendation: I will always tell you the D2 Driving is the absolute best starter light. It is named "Driving Beam" for a reason. The pattern it throws out is perfect for overall coverage down the road. (The D2 Wide being slightly more wide with slightly less distance) Pair that up with the Dually Spot or Dually Flood and you have a great combination for line of sight far down the road as well as your immediate driving area.
The Diffused lights are something else entirely! The Dually D2 Diffused is a light you will turn on and immediately say WOW. I recommend this light for applications where slow to no vehicular movement is involved. I.E. back up lights, scene lighting... These are true to the traditional sense of the Flood light. Visually you can tell these two lights apart from the reset by their bubbly diffusion lens on top of the optics.
--
Keep em' coming!
--
Q: "Is it true that you are working on a replacement fog light that will go in the place of the stock F150 housing ?"
A: At the moment we are considering different options and our engineers have this project in their minds. Nothing as of yet, however.
--
Q: How much difference between flood and spot patterns?
A: Our Spot and Flood patterns are true to their names, however not in the way you might think. When your vehicle is moving your range of view becomes much more narrow. While stopped, the spot beam will seem very much pencil like, but at speed the beam will light up objects far down the road with a great intensity. The same goes for the Flood. At a stand still it appears also almost pencil like. However, when moving you will notice a wider range (ditch to ditch) from the spot beam, while still getting great distance.
To elaborate: The D-Series (Dually and D2) lights are very popular. To arrange them in order from pencil beam to the most spread out pattern we have would be this.
Dually Spot
Dually Flood
D2 Driving
D2 Wide
Dually Diffused
D2 Diffused
My recommendation: I will always tell you the D2 Driving is the absolute best starter light. It is named "Driving Beam" for a reason. The pattern it throws out is perfect for overall coverage down the road. (The D2 Wide being slightly more wide with slightly less distance) Pair that up with the Dually Spot or Dually Flood and you have a great combination for line of sight far down the road as well as your immediate driving area.
The Diffused lights are something else entirely! The Dually D2 Diffused is a light you will turn on and immediately say WOW. I recommend this light for applications where slow to no vehicular movement is involved. I.E. back up lights, scene lighting... These are true to the traditional sense of the Flood light. Visually you can tell these two lights apart from the reset by their bubbly diffusion lens on top of the optics.
--
Keep em' coming!
Last edited by 2011FX4boost; 10-19-2012 at 01:02 PM.
10-19-2012, 12:59 PM
#23
Q: I see a lot of guys with the 20" in the hole in the front. They must offer a bracket for that huh?
A: They are either using a custom bracket or somehow using the brackets that come with the light. I will look into this and get back to you!
--
Q: How do the SR-M lights compare to Duallys? Suggestions?
A: The SR-M's are very similar to their bigger brother, the D-Series lights. They were created to allow high performance lighting in even tighter mounting locations. They are also extremely light weight so using them where weight is an issue could be ideal. The D-Series lights are, lets face it, pretty frickin' impressive. The light output in the SR-M is very comparable, regardless of the light being half the footprint. I would recommend the D-Series for your forward projection needs like the road or dirt in front of you. The SR-M is amazing in just about any location you put it in. Reverse lights (very very bright reverse lights, SR-M Diffused), up front or the side of the truck. They are still brighter than your high beams (SR-M2 Driving) and will go further than them as well (SR-M Spot). Honestly, the brightest little big light you will ever find. Put it wherever you can find room!
--
For anyone concerned with putting lights behind the grille, and whether or not the grille would dampen the light out put, I am here to lessen your worries. The grille mesh in front of the light does very very little in terms of light output reduction. In my opinion, nothing at all.
A: They are either using a custom bracket or somehow using the brackets that come with the light. I will look into this and get back to you!
--
Q: How do the SR-M lights compare to Duallys? Suggestions?
A: The SR-M's are very similar to their bigger brother, the D-Series lights. They were created to allow high performance lighting in even tighter mounting locations. They are also extremely light weight so using them where weight is an issue could be ideal. The D-Series lights are, lets face it, pretty frickin' impressive. The light output in the SR-M is very comparable, regardless of the light being half the footprint. I would recommend the D-Series for your forward projection needs like the road or dirt in front of you. The SR-M is amazing in just about any location you put it in. Reverse lights (very very bright reverse lights, SR-M Diffused), up front or the side of the truck. They are still brighter than your high beams (SR-M2 Driving) and will go further than them as well (SR-M Spot). Honestly, the brightest little big light you will ever find. Put it wherever you can find room!
--
For anyone concerned with putting lights behind the grille, and whether or not the grille would dampen the light out put, I am here to lessen your worries. The grille mesh in front of the light does very very little in terms of light output reduction. In my opinion, nothing at all.
10-19-2012, 01:14 PM
#25
Meaner than ymeski56
Originally Posted by bullplug
I like the way the 20 fills that hole. I have a 5.0 so I think it'd be ok there. Am I correct?
10-19-2012, 01:21 PM
#26
I have a Westin Bull Bar on my 2011 FX4. It currently had KC lights installed and they are bright but not bright enough. I would like to get a 20" that y'all offer. This Bull Bar is common from what i see so is there a bracket that y'all fabricate to make the fit as painless as possible?
We have adjustable clamps that clamp onto a large assortment of radius's. It would depend on the length of the horizontal beam of your bull bar as to which light you could mount to it. Regardless, the light could mount to it very easily! Which ever light you are looking for, roughly add 2 to 3 inches and that is how much bar you will need for it to mount to (a 10" E-Series light bar will need 12" to 13" of bar to mount to, giving room for the clamps that mount on the end of the end bolts). From there, just measure the diameter of your bar!
10-19-2012, 01:45 PM
#27
Senior Member
This is my 20"
We had to customise this Rigid bar because the rear of the light was hitting the bumper. The slots on the bracket match up with my Westin mounting holes.
This is the mod.
We cut the tabs off and pushed them forward about an inch, then used bedliner on it.
We had to customise this Rigid bar because the rear of the light was hitting the bumper. The slots on the bracket match up with my Westin mounting holes.
This is the mod.
We cut the tabs off and pushed them forward about an inch, then used bedliner on it.
Last edited by rbrais; 10-19-2012 at 01:48 PM.
10-19-2012, 01:53 PM
#28
Senior Member
Originally Posted by rbrais
This is my 20"
We had to customise this Rigid bar because the rear of the light was hitting the bumper. The slots on the bracket match up with my Westin mounting holes.
This is the mod.
We cut the tabs off and pushed them forward about an inch, then used bedliner on it.
We had to customise this Rigid bar because the rear of the light was hitting the bumper. The slots on the bracket match up with my Westin mounting holes.
This is the mod.
We cut the tabs off and pushed them forward about an inch, then used bedliner on it.
10-19-2012, 02:03 PM
#29
Senior Member
I have to say that this light is awesome. A combo of spots and flood. It lights up the entire road and edges. You can't even tell the high beams are on when using this light. (That being said, don't use it with oncoming traffic.)
My only complaint was RF output, which disrupts the radio (antenna only). I found that it was back-feeding through the power lead, so I placed 4 ferrite chokes on the lead and the problem is gone.
Trust me, the camera does not do this light justice, but here's an example.
Headlights:
Rigid 20"
My only complaint was RF output, which disrupts the radio (antenna only). I found that it was back-feeding through the power lead, so I placed 4 ferrite chokes on the lead and the problem is gone.
Trust me, the camera does not do this light justice, but here's an example.
Headlights:
Rigid 20"