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Here some pics of XHP50 and XHP70 in Anzo headlights.
By the way thanks Adam for your good services.
Low beam;
Hi beam;
Those high beams are weak. Reminds me of the very first retro I did using the cheap HID 2.5 projectors on Amazon. The low beam was good and wide but the high beam was pretty much non-existent. Much like this.
Now adays they are the most popular headlight option on the 2015+ F150s we're finding. Even the LED upgrades we sell are all for the Anzo Housings over the stock Halogens. Last year the stock halogens were what everybody was upgrading. Today though, we get more orders for the Anzo housings and/or H7 bulbs then any other bulb. So it's by far the most popular choice and for good reason. They just look great.
Like most have said, the projectors are not as great as you'd expect BUT they are priced very fairly. If they priced them at say $800 nobody would buy them, even with higher quality projectors. So they are a great price point and great quality for what you are paying. MOST of us don't need a custom made $1,000 projection system (although that'd be nice).
I know some folks have taken them apart and replaced the projectors but I don't see a need to. They work great with aftermarket bulbs (the stock bulbs are not as desirable).
If you've yet to upgrade them you should look into it. We sell an LED Upgrade kit and Stage3 has LED upgrade kits available on their site as well for this.
this is a kit to replace the halogen bulb which comes with the headlight assembly im geussing?
I didn't bother doing any before shots, everyone knows how much the OEM halogens stuc.
i went with the crystalux LEDs (in the past I've gone the cheaper route, and while the light is pretty good from those kits, I really liked the way these more expensive leds adjust. The detent is a great idea.
I know this is a review on Anzo lights, but I was wondering where you got that Grill with the Red in-lay. I have (what looks to be), an identical version of the F-150, but I like the Red in-lay that you have. Was that stock from Ford?
Looking for some help on HyperFlash post anzo switchback install
Ok. I have installed the anzo switchback assemblies in my 2015 XLT. I absolutely love them. Just went through the first rain with them, no issues. Did I mention that I love them? I read about the halogen being weak so immediately swapped out the lows with Hikari H7 bulbs ($40) so happy I did that. Unfortunately I did not know what the replacement bulbs should be for the lows. I can change them out later. The overall install was really easy. Had to use a splice to get the switchback feature to work. I also immediately swapped out the incandescent blinker bulbs with JDM ASTAR extremely bright PX Chips amber yellow turn signals LED Bulbs ($20). I am planning on using forescan to set the planks as DRL’s. Did I mention that I love them??
Others have asked about the dust covers ... the dust covers are rigid plastic with O-rings to seal them. Very nice set up and improvement over OEM rubber; however, you need to make sure your LED replacements will not extend beyond the cover. The Hikari (and others) have a mini fan rather than a big heatsink so they work just fine.
OKAY the only issue is that I seem to need a resister on one of the circuits. I’m just not sure which one. During the day, when I use my blinker they flash fine and the dashboard indicator flashes In sync. At night when I have my head lights on, the blinker blinks fine but I get a hyper flash warning in the dashboard indicator. Keeping in mind I swapped both the blinker and low beams with LEDs I not sure what circuit needs the resistance to stop the hyper flash. While it’s not really a big deal I would like to resolve it properly.
Ok. I have installed the anzo switchback assemblies in my 2015 XLT. I absolutely love them. Just went through the first rain with them, no issues. Did I mention that I love them? I read about the halogen being weak so immediately swapped out the lows with Hikari H7 bulbs ($40) so happy I did that. Unfortunately I did not know what the replacement bulbs should be for the lows. I can change them out later. The overall install was really easy. Had to use a splice to get the switchback feature to work. I also immediately swapped out the incandescent blinker bulbs with JDM ASTAR extremely bright PX Chips amber yellow turn signals LED Bulbs ($20). I am planning on using forescan to set the planks as DRL’s. Did I mention that I love them??
Others have asked about the dust covers ... the dust covers are rigid plastic with O-rings to seal them. Very nice set up and improvement over OEM rubber; however, you need to make sure your LED replacements will not extend beyond the cover. The Hikari (and others) have a mini fan rather than a big heatsink so they work just fine.
OKAY the only issue is that I seem to need a resister on one of the circuits. I’m just not sure which one. During the day, when I use my blinker they flash fine and the dashboard indicator flashes In sync. At night when I have my head lights on, the blinker blinks fine but I get a hyper flash warning in the dashboard indicator. Keeping in mind I swapped both the blinker and low beams with LEDs I not sure what circuit needs the resistance to stop the hyper flash. While it’s not really a big deal I would like to resolve it properly.
Anyone with an idea how to know which one?
I am looking at getting the Hikari bulbs you used? What do you mean when you say you did not know what the replacement bulb should be for the low? I thought you used these Hikari's for the lows?
10-05-2018, 05:14 AM
