Danielw1

I just bought a fastway e2 round bar wd hitch and was wondering what others thought about the weight range of those. I don’t see where it calls out a range and just rather a max weight.

my trailer is 4500 dry and has a gvwr of 6580. Camping world said to go with the 6k hitch but I ended up going with the 8k. I didn’t want to be stuck Limited by the wd hitch but I also don’t know much about these. I figured water alone adds 350-400lbs, propane, dual batteries and I’m probably 600 lbs right there. I’ll also haul a lot in bed while towing during hunting season.

just curious on thoughts as I know there are experts here.

SpencerPJ

I would have done the 8k range as well. The 10k would have been too stiff, and 6k maybe right, but a lot of flex. I have similar TT weight as you, my Reese 8k bars, work great. You will be fine, get it dialed in right and you will be happy.

Danielw1

thanks! 2 dealers wanted to go strictly by dry weight/gvwr but after reading it appears that there’s more to it than that. Now just to figure out height and adjustment..

Ricktwuhk

To figure out the proper setting of the hitch requires measurements as well as weighing. When you think you have it set right, go to the scales, fill it with gas, and do 3 weights as has been described in many threads - with bars connected and tightened, with bars removed, and just truck. This will give you all the math you need, except for the impact of people - so if you can load up with the same people as your normal trips, plus all their stuff, that would be better.

And of course understand the payload printed on your door jamb. "I also haul a lot in bed while towing during hunting season" might be a problem.

SpencerPJ

I should go and scale my set-up sometime. It is the right way. For me tho, having the payload, and knowing my Trailer published numbers, giving a few hundred pounds for errors, I really feel I am well within spec, and the rest was all about dialing in the wdh. That can be done pretty good following the instructions with a level and tape. If you understand what the payolad# is and means on your drivers door, and feel you are well within that (maybe give yourself #900 tongue weight for margin of error), weighing will be just another good check, but not completely necessary. If you feel that you might be close with the numbers, I agree with Rick, run it across the scales as described in other threads.

Danielw1

I set the hitch up tonight and seemed to be pretty good though I had to remove 3 washers from the pitch adjustment. I am running at the minimum washer count and it seems ok. I’m going to keep an eye on it next trip and see if I need to adjust it to 4. this is the e2 wdh, others probably adjust differently.. I did like the fine tune with that but loading will
leave a lot of variables.

I went from not being able to latch the coupler (at 5 washers) then barley able to latch sway bars (4 washers) then 3 washers got it hooked up nice and easy. I was watching measurements of front end and it slowly got better as I adjusting. In the end I was within .5 (up) of unhitched average measurement of front end. Lots of math with all of this and in the end I think I’m just going to see how it goes and keep an eye on it. It’s got to be better than the rusty old stinger with no wdh that I had!

SpencerPJ

Post a picture of your assembly loaded on level land. And a trick, add the bars prior to lifting the tongue jack off the ground, much easier. Loading will change the dynamics somewhat, I like to keep my weight fairly even between front end and rear. Hauling water changes thinks too, although I don't haul full tanks often.

Ricktwuhk

I hate when I am barley able to do something!

Danielw1

lol. Auto correcting on iPhone. Give me a break.