Wanting to buy a tow hitch. I dont tow....
11-09-2020, 05:48 PM
#1
Wanting to buy a tow hitch. I dont tow....
Got a 2020 f150 xlt max tow pkg on a 6 inch bds lift. Wanna buy a tow hitch to protect my bumper from being hit from the back. The wife and kids wanna get a trailer so we can do outdoorsy stuff, so next summer the plan is rent various trailers etc and get a better idea of what we want. So what is a good tow hitch that I can buy now to protect my investment that I will be able to use on various trailers next summer? I like the way the Gen Y hitch looks as I dont want the chrome look. I was thinking of something like this https://genyhitch.com/product/mega-duty-10k-drop-hitch/
10k is the rating or should I opt for something more. The truck maxs out at 13k for towing i believe
10k is the rating or should I opt for something more. The truck maxs out at 13k for towing i believe
11-09-2020, 06:14 PM
#2
Senior Member
Your understanding of tow capacities is not correct, nor is your concept of protecting your bumper. Hitting a hitch will often do more frame damage. In some states, it is illegal to keep your hitch in the receiver when not in use.
You will need a weight distribution hitch for towing any trailer over 5,000 pounds or 500 pounds tongue weight.
Read the yellow payload sticker in your door jamb, then some of the threads here. Your towing capacity is negatively impacted by that 6 inch lift, and the big tires you probably have also.
You will need a weight distribution hitch for towing any trailer over 5,000 pounds or 500 pounds tongue weight.
Read the yellow payload sticker in your door jamb, then some of the threads here. Your towing capacity is negatively impacted by that 6 inch lift, and the big tires you probably have also.
11-09-2020, 06:36 PM
#3
Im in california and theres no law regarding having a hitch attached. Most of the trucks around here have a hitch attached to them all the time and never seen any of them pulled over. I'll look more into the damage caused to the frame by someone hitting it with the hitch on. Im prettty sure it would have to be a rear end going at least 20 mph. It doesnt really make sense but ill research that regardless.
As far as the lift and big tires, gen y sells some stabalizer bars for lifted trucks. Not sure how much you'd get back though...
https://genyhitch.com/product/stabilizer-kit/
As far as the lift and big tires, gen y sells some stabalizer bars for lifted trucks. Not sure how much you'd get back though...
https://genyhitch.com/product/stabilizer-kit/
11-09-2020, 07:02 PM
#4
Senior Member
That doesn't appear to be weight distribution.
Hitch connected to frame. Bumper designed to absorb impact. Seems pretty clear.
And you get nothing back by using a weight distribution hitch that you lost by adding heavy tires.
Hitch connected to frame. Bumper designed to absorb impact. Seems pretty clear.
And you get nothing back by using a weight distribution hitch that you lost by adding heavy tires.
11-09-2020, 07:54 PM
#5
Senior Member
Listen to the input of other users. They might not be the answers you’re hoping for but the answers you need.
A hitch could help in a specific situation. Low speed, small vehicle it could possibly help. More likely than not if someone hits you from behind you’re bumper will get damaged plus frame damage (bumper misalignment). If you’re concerned about bumper damage get an after market full metal bumper.
As for towing, you have lost towing capacity because of the lift. Not just because of the added dry weight of the truck and unsprung weight (bigger wheels). But because of the changes in suspension characteristics. Your braking capabilities are reduced. Don’t get me wrong, you can still tow. Just not the amount your sticker says.
A hitch could help in a specific situation. Low speed, small vehicle it could possibly help. More likely than not if someone hits you from behind you’re bumper will get damaged plus frame damage (bumper misalignment). If you’re concerned about bumper damage get an after market full metal bumper.
As for towing, you have lost towing capacity because of the lift. Not just because of the added dry weight of the truck and unsprung weight (bigger wheels). But because of the changes in suspension characteristics. Your braking capabilities are reduced. Don’t get me wrong, you can still tow. Just not the amount your sticker says.
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Johnny Paycheck (11-10-2020)
11-09-2020, 07:55 PM
#6
If you want to have a little bumper protection, look into the Smittybilt or TGL hitch step.
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11-09-2020, 09:15 PM
#8
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Starting with the payload capacity assigned to your truck. It is identified on the driver door jamb on the hello sticker.
You are looking for something like 1700 lbs listed on the sticker.
Figure a 6,000 lb travel trailer will carry almost 800lbs, or about 1/2 of your available payload. Now you need to add in your family and fun stuff like bikes for junior and missie. Fido and is 15lb bag of food. A few bundles of fire wood. blah blah
Every thing you add in is subtracted from the available payload.
Including the additional weight of your tires/wheels compared to stock. Nobody does it, but you get the idea. If you installed a Thule rack, yep, subtract that and the weight of your bull bar from payload. I think you get the idea.
You are looking for something like 1700 lbs listed on the sticker.
Figure a 6,000 lb travel trailer will carry almost 800lbs, or about 1/2 of your available payload. Now you need to add in your family and fun stuff like bikes for junior and missie. Fido and is 15lb bag of food. A few bundles of fire wood. blah blah
Every thing you add in is subtracted from the available payload.
Including the additional weight of your tires/wheels compared to stock. Nobody does it, but you get the idea. If you installed a Thule rack, yep, subtract that and the weight of your bull bar from payload. I think you get the idea.
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Johnny Paycheck (11-10-2020)
11-10-2020, 11:25 AM
#9
Senior Member
Having a ball mount for your receiver is a good idea, especially for renting trailers, cargo or RVs.
I’d just get a drop mount that that puts the ball at a normal height, like 18” at the flat top of the mount. Get a 6000# rated ball and mount and it’s stronger than the hitch is rated for a weigh carrying hitch.
A little more money and you can get an adjustable height ball mount. It’s best to set the hitch so the trailer is level when loaded.
I have three vehicles with receivers and several different ball mounts to be able to tow level my small cargo trailer (sold the bigger one) or travel trailer (have a Weight Distributing Hitch I use but it’s not required by the weights).
If concerned about bumper protection, I recommend a tube type hitch step. Dual purpose for a lifted truck.
I’d just get a drop mount that that puts the ball at a normal height, like 18” at the flat top of the mount. Get a 6000# rated ball and mount and it’s stronger than the hitch is rated for a weigh carrying hitch.
A little more money and you can get an adjustable height ball mount. It’s best to set the hitch so the trailer is level when loaded.
I have three vehicles with receivers and several different ball mounts to be able to tow level my small cargo trailer (sold the bigger one) or travel trailer (have a Weight Distributing Hitch I use but it’s not required by the weights).
If concerned about bumper protection, I recommend a tube type hitch step. Dual purpose for a lifted truck.
11-11-2020, 02:55 PM
#10
Senior Member
A good first step would be a trip to your closest CAT scale to see how much your truck weighs - ideally with everyone and everything you would have in it for a camping trip. Then subtract that number from your GVWR. That's your payload capacity for a trailer. Divide that number by 0.13 and that is your max trailer weight.
Example:
Truck curb weight: 5,400
Occupants, gear, etc.: 600
CAT scale reading would be: 6,000
GVWR: 7000
You have 1,000 for tongue weight, including WDH. Subtract 100 for WDH. You have 900 lbs available for trailer tongue weight.
900 / 0.13 = 6,923 max trailer weight.
As you can see, nowhere near the 13K published number tow rating.
Example:
Truck curb weight: 5,400
Occupants, gear, etc.: 600
CAT scale reading would be: 6,000
GVWR: 7000
You have 1,000 for tongue weight, including WDH. Subtract 100 for WDH. You have 900 lbs available for trailer tongue weight.
900 / 0.13 = 6,923 max trailer weight.
As you can see, nowhere near the 13K published number tow rating.