Originally Posted by Mister C;6794531
[b

*Truck - ALWAYS detects trailer, I never get 'Trailer Disconnected' message.
*When brake pedal is held down, I get a single bar on the output that usually drops off after a few seconds.
*Manually squeeze the ITBC trigger and output bar fills, but drops off after a few seconds. This usually ends in the 'Trailer Brake Wiring Fault' message. tells us there is a wiring problem someplace. This will be useful for further testing later.
*During the very brief periods when output bar shows activity, it does feel as if the brakes are activating.
*Brakes work fine when breakaway cable is pulled. (Since the breakaway activates the brakes, recommendation was to swap out the 7-way pigtail. Did this with no better result.
*My truck activates the brakes on a buddy's trailer. His truck DOES NOT activate the brakes when connected to my trailer. narrows the troubles down to your trailer.
*Used multimeter to check resistance between pins 1 and 2, which I was told will measure total resistance of all 4 brake magnets. Measurement came back as 0.6[/b]

Further background info. I had a double axle failure on this trailer in July while traveling and Camping World replaced them under warranty. I did drive back home (cross country) with no ill effects. I do not see any visible wiring damage on the wiring going into the brake drums. Other wiring goes thru the axle tube. I realize that routing thru the axle can cause issues, but wouldn't think on a year old trailer. I had the trailer back at CW for additional warranty work and was bringing it home after 'diagnosis' to await parts delivery. I called CW and they added this problem to the list but am hoping to take care of it myself, if possible, as appointments are being booked so far in advance.

Originally Posted by JS2003

I’d be looking very closely at the trailer wiring. Bad ground, maybe?

Originally Posted by MikeD134

I'd suggest getting under the trailer on the left side and disconnect all four brakes from the wiring coming from the truck. Take it all apart. Then squeeze the manual control see if you get a warning. If clear it's a process of adding one brake at a time, always using the manual control after each one till you find the one that gives you the fault message. Because you get brakes with the breakaway switch it's not a dead short but it is enough of an issue that the brake controller shuts down and gives a wiring fault message. Don't worry about polarity at each brake, the brakes don't care about + - just picture power flowing in one wire and back out the other.

Originally Posted by Mister C

Thanks Mike. More ignorant on this type of problem than many others, so forgive the basic questions:

1. You are referring to disconnecting the wires that connect each brake magnet to the trailer wiring? Yes As long as we are talking about the same wiring, I see no way to disconnect - they appear to be spliced together with some type of one-use connector. Correct So I can just snip them apart in this case? Yes saving as much wire as you can. The first part of the connector is a skirt you can cut at that point to save as much wire as you can.

2. Is it OK to have the trailer battery connected when I do the snipping? Yes. If so, what about keeping the 7-way plugged in. No only because the Ford brake controller sends a pulse down the wire every 4 seconds verifying the trailer is connected. EXTREAMLY unlikely for anything to go wrong but you'll be climbing under and out anyway so why not.
3. I plan on doing a quick crimp with a wire nut or something similar for the testing of each brake. What type of permanent connector would you recommend for this application? I've used 3M crimp connectors on my boat trailer lighting and it's fine 20 years later. I put a large dab of petroleum jelly (same as used on a babies skin) into the connector to stop any corrosion from occurring years later.

3M™ Scotchlok™ Closed End Connector Vinyl Insulated, 50/bottle, S-31-A(Boxed), 500/Case | 3M United States
Thanks again.

Originally Posted by Mister C

Originally Posted by Boomerweps

99% of trailer electrical problems I’ve experienced has been from a corroded or open ground on the trailer when using tow vehicle factory installed trailer connectors. Drilling into a thick frame for a good ground outside in winter sucks.

Originally Posted by JS2003

Agree 100%. I no longer will rely on just a trailer-ground; when I rewired by trailer, I ran ground lines to each fixture. I have a trailer-frame connection as a redundant ground, but dedicated ground wires eliminate 99% of the problems.