Trailer Battery Charging on '18 Lariat
10-23-2018, 06:54 AM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
This really stinks. So clarify for me please, If I go to a campground with no power and my camper battery gets low, the days of idling the truck to recharge the battery are over? If yes, does my 110 outlet carry enough volts to take a 110 volts charger and hook the leads directly to the camper battery? 2016 F150.
Last edited by PitCritter; 10-23-2018 at 06:57 AM.
10-23-2018, 08:29 AM
#22
10-23-2018, 02:11 PM
#23
I had problems this weekend with my batteries. Apparently, in the couple of months since I last used my trailer, the batteries boiled off somehow. I had the trailer plugged in to A/C in my driveway and it must have overcharged them or something. Anyways, I got to my campsite on friday and realized i didnt have much juice and only made it 1.5 nights before lights started flickering and my heater fan wouldnt run. It made for a cold night(Southern Utah, its getting down below freezing.)
Hooking the truck up and running it did almost zero to help the situation. I was lucky I was able to get the slide back in and the tongue jacked up to get it back on the hitch.
Hooking the truck up and running it did almost zero to help the situation. I was lucky I was able to get the slide back in and the tongue jacked up to get it back on the hitch.
Last edited by mass-hole; 10-23-2018 at 02:13 PM.
11-14-2018, 10:07 PM
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Update...
I went back to my trailer today to take it in for its annual inspection. As planned, I took along an extension cord and my battery charger so I could run the tongue jack. Spoiler alert---I didn't need it.
I had some time, so I played around a bit. As before, I backed up to the trailer and tried the jack. I couldn't even get the LED light on my tongue jack to light up. The battery is now officially stone dead. I plugged the 7-pin connector into my bumper and had exactly the same result. No power at all.
I went to the cab and selected my trailer in the cluster. I checked and still had no power to the battery charge line. On a whim, I engaged the e-brake and put the truck in "Drive". I tried the jack again and, surprise, I had lots of power both up and down. I put it back in "Park" and the power was still there.
It seems to me that the state of the battery charge line is dependent on a couple of parameters, but it DOES provide power under some circumstances. I'm not implying that I'm getting the full 25A that the fuse would allow, but I can verify that it runs my tongue jack at full speed. That's good enough for me.
I'll be installing a battery cutoff switch when I do replace the battery. I'll leave it disconnected whenever the 110 is plugged in. I'll check water levels and hook up a trickle charger every month or so. With any luck, that'll stop me from boiling the battery dry.
I went back to my trailer today to take it in for its annual inspection. As planned, I took along an extension cord and my battery charger so I could run the tongue jack. Spoiler alert---I didn't need it.
I had some time, so I played around a bit. As before, I backed up to the trailer and tried the jack. I couldn't even get the LED light on my tongue jack to light up. The battery is now officially stone dead. I plugged the 7-pin connector into my bumper and had exactly the same result. No power at all.
I went to the cab and selected my trailer in the cluster. I checked and still had no power to the battery charge line. On a whim, I engaged the e-brake and put the truck in "Drive". I tried the jack again and, surprise, I had lots of power both up and down. I put it back in "Park" and the power was still there.
It seems to me that the state of the battery charge line is dependent on a couple of parameters, but it DOES provide power under some circumstances. I'm not implying that I'm getting the full 25A that the fuse would allow, but I can verify that it runs my tongue jack at full speed. That's good enough for me.
I'll be installing a battery cutoff switch when I do replace the battery. I'll leave it disconnected whenever the 110 is plugged in. I'll check water levels and hook up a trickle charger every month or so. With any luck, that'll stop me from boiling the battery dry.
Last edited by PitCritter; 11-14-2018 at 10:12 PM.
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BCMIF150 (11-15-2018)
11-15-2018, 12:17 AM
#25
Battleborn lithium batteries are only a grand. That and a solar cell on the roof is my plan. And the grand part - I say that tongue in cheek.
11-15-2018, 05:51 PM
#26
Senior Member
BTW, you won't have to put any current limiting in to charge them, the small gauge wire does that fine all by itself. Once the voltage drop get's it down to below 13.6V or so, the current won't be going up much after that.
Personally, I don't even want my Battleborns charged by the tow vehicle. Solar is fine for that. I actually turn my solar off the day before we come home so I can store the Battleborns somewhat discharged which is the best for them,
Last edited by babock; 11-15-2018 at 05:55 PM.
11-20-2018, 01:07 PM
#27
Ambitious But Rubbish
Interesting thread to come across. I tow an enclosed car trailer that has a 12V car battery in the nose to operate the electric tongue jack and a winch. All of my reading indicated that the truck will only trickle charge, etc etc.
Earlier in the year, I had hooked the 7-pin connector up 180° flipped (somehow it let me do it) which blew a few fuses on the truck and resulted in the trailer battery not charging, even after flipping the plug around, until I figured out what I'd done. So, I burned up the battery pretty quickly using the tongue jack. Replaced the fuses and one five-hour tow later, it was back to functional, so "trickle" or more, it's juicing up the battery.
I recently used the winch and it ran the battery down quite a bit. As soon as I started the truck (with the trailer selected on the dash, in Park, e-brake set) the winch had plenty of power to drag my racecar into the trailer.
Just some anecdotes but it's interesting to read about others' experiences. With winter coming, I'll probably pull that trailer battery after my last tow for the year, and leave it on a tender at home. But still nice to know that the truck will, somehow, keep it charged and provide enough juice normally.
Earlier in the year, I had hooked the 7-pin connector up 180° flipped (somehow it let me do it) which blew a few fuses on the truck and resulted in the trailer battery not charging, even after flipping the plug around, until I figured out what I'd done. So, I burned up the battery pretty quickly using the tongue jack. Replaced the fuses and one five-hour tow later, it was back to functional, so "trickle" or more, it's juicing up the battery.
I recently used the winch and it ran the battery down quite a bit. As soon as I started the truck (with the trailer selected on the dash, in Park, e-brake set) the winch had plenty of power to drag my racecar into the trailer.
Just some anecdotes but it's interesting to read about others' experiences. With winter coming, I'll probably pull that trailer battery after my last tow for the year, and leave it on a tender at home. But still nice to know that the truck will, somehow, keep it charged and provide enough juice normally.
11-22-2018, 05:40 PM
#28
Senior Member
The "smart" trailer connector needs to have the trailer set up in the in the truck and you need to stop on the brakes once before you get power to the 12V battery feed.
It's been covered a few times:
One example
From previous thread:
The "smart" trailer connector on the 2015 and up doesn't energize the charge pin on the seven pin socket unless the trailer is connected, you have set it up in the trailer menu and you have to press the brakes after connecting it. To the OP:
1.Try to set up the trailer in the dash trailer menu and make it the active trailer. set it to "connected".
2.Connect the trailer via the plug
3.Step on the brakes once to activate the brake lights on the trailer.
Not guaranteed to work, but your best hope using the "smart" connector.
If this doesn't work, I would change the type of brakes you have the trailer set up for, ie. "electric" vs "hydraulic over electric", "none?"
then try step 2 and 3 again that way.
I hope it works for you.
It's been covered a few times:
One example
From previous thread:
The "smart" trailer connector on the 2015 and up doesn't energize the charge pin on the seven pin socket unless the trailer is connected, you have set it up in the trailer menu and you have to press the brakes after connecting it. To the OP:
1.Try to set up the trailer in the dash trailer menu and make it the active trailer. set it to "connected".
2.Connect the trailer via the plug
3.Step on the brakes once to activate the brake lights on the trailer.
Not guaranteed to work, but your best hope using the "smart" connector.
If this doesn't work, I would change the type of brakes you have the trailer set up for, ie. "electric" vs "hydraulic over electric", "none?"
then try step 2 and 3 again that way.
I hope it works for you.
Last edited by tcp2; 11-22-2018 at 05:42 PM.
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rbranden (02-26-2023)
11-22-2018, 06:26 PM
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The "smart" trailer connector needs to have the trailer set up in the in the truck and you need to stop on the brakes once before you get power to the 12V battery feed.
It's been covered a few times:
One example
From previous thread:
The "smart" trailer connector on the 2015 and up doesn't energize the charge pin on the seven pin socket unless the trailer is connected, you have set it up in the trailer menu and you have to press the brakes after connecting it. To the OP:
1.Try to set up the trailer in the dash trailer menu and make it the active trailer. set it to "connected".
2.Connect the trailer via the plug
3.Step on the brakes once to activate the brake lights on the trailer.
Not guaranteed to work, but your best hope using the "smart" connector.
If this doesn't work, I would change the type of brakes you have the trailer set up for, ie. "electric" vs "hydraulic over electric", "none?"
then try step 2 and 3 again that way.
I hope it works for you.
It's been covered a few times:
One example
From previous thread:
The "smart" trailer connector on the 2015 and up doesn't energize the charge pin on the seven pin socket unless the trailer is connected, you have set it up in the trailer menu and you have to press the brakes after connecting it. To the OP:
1.Try to set up the trailer in the dash trailer menu and make it the active trailer. set it to "connected".
2.Connect the trailer via the plug
3.Step on the brakes once to activate the brake lights on the trailer.
Not guaranteed to work, but your best hope using the "smart" connector.
If this doesn't work, I would change the type of brakes you have the trailer set up for, ie. "electric" vs "hydraulic over electric", "none?"
then try step 2 and 3 again that way.
I hope it works for you.
11-24-2018, 01:33 PM
#30
This battery have too much charging problem. it's take long time and sometimes show undefined problem to do start my truck.
already contract with service provider team but they response like immature.
it's too bore
already contract with service provider team but they response like immature.
it's too bore