Related to towing is setting up the WDH. The equalizer requires one to torque the shank bolts to 320 ft lbs and the ball to 430 ft lbs. That's an insane amount of torque. The typical torque wrench goes to 200 maybe.

Does everyone here actually have an $1k torque wrench capable of this or is there another method I'm missing to hit this number???

One time setup is one thing. I can find a shop but these typically require adjustment to dial it in. I'd like to try s different setting but don't have the tool and can't justify it just for this.

 

air impact....not proper...but since my 2013...its still holding...lol

 

I'd be willing to bet most shops just hit it with an air impact wrench.

 

Torque multiplier. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7236_200627236

Not cheap, but not as expensive as a 3/4" torque wrench that can do 600 ft/lb. I have one that is 3/4" in and 1" out so requires multiple adapters which you have to factor in to the torque settings on the torque wrench. I got one when I rebuilt the differentials on my F350 Dually years ago. The pinion nut was 350 ft/lbs, and had the same issues as you how to torque it.

 

I just went through that with my Equalizer. I've neglected my hitch for 3 seasons and realized it when I bought the Ford and adjusted the hitch settings to match. Complete disassembly, cleaning and lubing (man, those things get filthy!). I didn't go through the hassle of finding a shop with the tools but I spent $57 on a 3/4" drive socket set from HF. I just use the breaker bar to get both of those good and tight. I torque anything under the 225# capacity of my 1/2" drive torque wrench.

 

I have the Fastaway E2 trunnion weight distributing hitch. It is made by the same company as the Equalizer (Progress Mfg). It is very similar, but just a bit faster to hitch up. The instructions (http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/wp-con...tions_0212.pdf) call for 250 ft pounds of torque on the shank bolts and a 450 ft-lb torque wrench to adjust to the hitch ball manufacturer's specifications. Also, bolts holding the brackets for the L-brackets to the frame should be torqued to 65 ft-lbs and the nuts for the L-brackets to 75 ft-lbs.

My hitch ball was installed by my RV dealership and it hasn't needed to be replaced. The owners manual suggests that it be taken to an RV dealership for mounting and torqueing the hitch ball, but calls for a 250 ft-lb torque wrench for the rest of the installation. When I had to reset the hitch for my new truck, I bought the Kobalt torque wrench http://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-1-2-i...Wrench/3381202 for the job.

 

Half-inch drive and 250 lb/ft max torque for $80. Yes, I looked, and I don't find any torque wrenches with 1/2" drive that goes up over 250 lb/ft torque.


Also at Lowes you an buy one with three-quarter-inch drive and 600 lb/ft max torque, but they cost $355.
http://www.lowes.com/pd/K-Tool-Inter...rench/50376276. And as acdii noted, at Northern Tool, they have one for $300.


But for a 3/4" drive, you need a socket that will fit a 3/4" drive, and you probably don't have one. So do you buy a 3/4" socket set? Maybe just buy an adapter to go from 3/4" to 1/2" drive so you can use your normal 1/2" socket set, but will that mess up the torque reading? I don't know.


I just use the 250# torque wrench until it clicks, then use a 1/2" breaker bar and add a 3' length of pipe as a cheater and then get the nut just a tad tighter to get approximately 450 lb/ft torque. I've never had a problem with any nut coming loose when tightened with that method.

 

Resurrecting the old thread. I have bought a WD hitch with the 2 5/16" ball already mounted on it. I have the 2" ball of the appropriate size. Now...the problem with replacing it. Clearly, I do not have the tools for that, never had to deal with 1-7/8" nuts and the torque in order of 450 ft-lb I think I could use some help. What would be my best bet? A local garage or a random nearby RV dealer?

When doing this, is it safe to keep the hitch installed on the truck or it absolutely needs to be removed?

Thanks!

 

Gabor freight has torque multipliers. Need to some some math but I think it is the best way.

Another truck i learned is to us a pipe on the end of the torque wrench. Again, the length you use is all in the match. Google is your friend on that.

 

I just bought a 3/4" x 3' breaker bar when I had to replace the steering box on my TJ. I don't trust the 250 ftlb spec on the discount torque wrench I bought so wanted to make sure it was tight.

Honestly, for the amount of time you'll need to do it, it might be best to just have an RV shop or someone do it and pay them the $50 or whatever they'd charge for the 10 minutes it would take, BUT I'd also want a large breaker bar or something to check tightness the odd time.