Currently I have a 18 foot boat on a single axle trailer, less than 4k pounds loaded. Just like my '10, my '13 has a nagging bounce that goes away on better road conditions. I have read through various solutions and was trying to decide on the best solution. DYI bolt on is what I am looking to do, so based on experience should I look into bounce like support from the Timbren SES, rear anti-sway bar or Hellwig helper springs?

 

I went with the super springs SSA28 for the same kind of problem. Helps a lot to firm up the towing experience. I also liked the 30 min install time for a non gear head like myself.

 

I suspect you're on the wrong track. Instead of messing with the truck's suspension, you need a weight-distributing (WD) hitch. Assuming your boat trailer has surge brakes, then you don't have a lot of choices as to which WD hitch to get. Equal-I-zer is the only one I know that advertises they work with surge brakes.

With a gross wet and loaded trailer weight of less than 6,000 pounds, you need the Equal-I-Zer hitch for 6,000 pounds max trailer weight (600 pounds max hitch weight). That's the lighest-duty WD hitch Equal-I-Zer makes, and it's just perfect for your requirements. Here is one source:

If your boat trailer has a pole design instead of an a-frame design for the hitch and coupler, then you may need a slightly different hitch than the one I linked to. But they're available, so do your homework to get the correct hitch for your trailer.

No, normally a 4,000-pound boat trailer does not require a WD hitch. But a WD hitch can fix the complaints you have, so why not install one?

 

I agree with Smokey - a WD hitch will probably do away with what you're experiencing.


As he said, normally the spring bar brackets attach directly to the "V" arms of the tongue, but if you have a "pole" type tongue then you can get a "pole tongue adapter" from most of the manufacturers. Here's the Equal-i-zer one:







The other hitches with chain supports for the bars have different methods to attach the chain brackets, but most all the hitch makers have a pole tongue adapter.


Take a look on eBay or your local Craigslist for a used one. I got a very nice used 10,000 lb Equal-i-zer for a LOT less than a new one, and it came with a ball.


Actually, Equal-i-zer has a new 400/4000 hitch.


Bob


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BTW - if you have surge brakes, some WD hitches won't work unless you have electric brakes.


The Equal-i-zer hitch will work with surge brakes - here's info in the FAQ section of their website:


So...if looking at other manufacturer's WD hitches, make sure they will work with surge brakes, if that's what you have.


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In a nutshell, springs control weight, shocks control bounce.


The F150 shocks are bargain basement units designed to provide exceptional unloaded ride characteristics. Buy a decent set of shocks and you'll cure the bounce along with problems you never even knew you had.

 

For 4K weight I don't see a WDH being needed especially if the hitch is at 7%. I'd suggest starting with a set of Bilstein 5100's on the rear. BTW, I tow a 3000# and a 6000# trailer with my F150 and both seem to do fine without a WDH.

 

x2
. shocks for sure. A WD for a single axle 4,000 lb trailer is crazy.

 

Have you checked your tongue weight, boat trailers are a different animal that "normal" trailers. they're usually set up different than other trailer types. I have a non tow package 2010 F150 and it towed my 18 Trophy without any bounce.

 

X2.

Also, do you have P-metric tires? You might consider LT tires; load range C would likely be enough. Our newer F150 is nearly identical in configuration to the previous model. One difference, the newer truck has LT tires. We have discovered that there is a LOT less rear bounce with LT tires due to the stiffer sidewall.