dlbb

don't know where u are at but my old truck should be for sale soon. could even probably call on it if u like. probably could get it for 32k or so. 2200+ payload and rated at 10500 towing.

antoniodef

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure you get any better brakes or thicker frame with a tow package, I believe you have to get Max Tow for a thicker frame. HD payload would get you more payload obviously, but I believe you said you are okay there.

I have never used a WDH. I don't believe I've ever crossed 5k anyway, and if so not by much. The one great investment I did, which I will do on every truck now, is air bags. It took the squat out (I'm leveled), and drastically improved the ride. No more bouncing. It also gave me suspension travel back, since my reach shocked weren't compressed so much. After pulling a loaded 16' enclosed 9 hours without them, I immediately ordered the kit. It was a miserable drive.

I thought of dumping my 14 for a new one a few months back. Once I crunched numbers I realized it was ridiculous for me. My truck is great, only had 30k miles, and was set to how I wanted.

Jacksson

That was my other question about adding an upgrade or support for suspension. I've seen things like the Roadmaster deal and have been hearing of air bags recently. I don't know the first thing about them though. Do they self adjust? And what is a ballpark to add them?

antoniodef

iTrader: (1)

Google some YouTube videos, bags are very simple. They bolt right in, no drilling or welding. When you add payload, from stuff in the bed or trailer hitch weight, the distance between the axle and frame narrows. Air bags go in this space, and when inflated, widen this gap back to "normal". I inflate mine with a compressor at home or a gas station. When deflated, everything rides like stock. You can buy truck mounted compressors, but not required. $250-$350 depending on kit. AirLift and Firestone are popular.

I don't care for the Roadmaster Active Suspension. I've never tried it, but have no desire to add more moving parts to my suspension.

Aragorn

The main reason for the WDH is safety, since you've done pretty well as it sits you can get away without it but I would recommend it. I can't really advise you on air bags since I've never needed them. My little flat bed trailer is rarely loaded to it's limits so.....

smokeywren

I wouldn't worry about killing the engine if you don't allow anything in the drivetrain to overheat. Keep the oil changed per the "severe duty" maintenance schedule, and watch your coolant, oil, and tranny temps.


Too bad you have a 2008 4.6L 2V instead of the 2009 and later 4.6L 3V engine. The 3V engine would have no problems pulling your 6,500-pound boat trailer over hill and dale without overheating anything in the drivetrain. But my 4.6L 2V engine in my 2003 F-150 was a dog. I wouldn't try to convince anyone to hang onto an F-150 with that engine.


However, a new tow vehicle is only one of your options. A more practical option for you might be to find a 2009 or 2010 F-150 with the 3V engine. But if you are satisfied with the power and performance of your 2V engine, then spend some money on the 2008 and drive it a few more years.


The main thing you need are air bags and a good weight-distributing (WD) hitch.


Air bags don't add any payload capacity, but they make the towing experience more enjoyable.
= Firestone RideRite Air Bags for 2008 F-150


And ignore those that claim you don't need a WD hitch with a boat trailer, or that WD hitches for a boat trailer are not available. Ford says you need a WD hitch for any tongue weight more than 500 pounds (or gross trailer weight over 5,000 pounds). When properly loaded, your boat trailer should have more than 500 pounds tongue weight. And it's obvious your 6,500 pound trailer grosses more than 5,000 pounds.


There are lots of uninformed and ignorant people in the world. Don't be one of those.

If your boat trailer has electric brakes, almost any WD hitch will work. But even if your trailer has surge brakes, an Equal-I-Zer and a few other brands that are copies of the Equal-I-Zer design will work.


You don't want to buy a cheap WD hitch. The Equal-I-Zer is a good WD hitch, not cheap. Here's one from Amazon.com:
= Equal-I-Zer hitch with max 1,000 pounds tongue weight


That hitch assumes your boat trailer has the common A-frame tongue. If the tongue is the pole design, then you'll need an adapter, like this one:
= Pole tongue adapter for WD hitch

adaycj

Another vote for run your truck into the ground. And be careful buying all that new stuff. If it can be transferred to a new truck, great. If not ask yourself seriously if you need it. That money could be put towards your new truck later, or another vacation to the keys.

If you feel that the truck tows good, and you are not way over on the numbers, I wouldn't mess with success. A WD hitch would be a good investment and insurance. You can use it on any tow vehicle you buy.

I would also encourage you to waste a little time while you are all loaded up for a trip and stop and weigh the truck and boat. Guessing at the numbers is just not good.

A new truck is a gamble too. Look at the 5.0l knock, and 2.7l oil consumption threads. While most owners don't have these problems, it sounds like you have a good truck and your know you don't have problems. Sometimes there is a peace of mind in having a good vehicle that you have personally experienced as reliable.

One last thing, back off the Tylenol. It is bad for your liver. Ford's towing information is a shameful mess. Their information about towing and payload packages are no better. Every truck should come with all of this information written clearly on a card adhered to the inside a storage compartment. Every relevant piece of data should be in one place and only the information for the vehicle at hand should be listed. There are just way too many cases of buyers regret when owners find out that the towing capacity listed cannot be achieved. It is even worse when they only see the unicorn truck listed in the marketing with the asterisks listed next to it. A towing guide with 12,200 # towing written at the top doesn't help. Neither does the fact that the crew cab truck shown right under the number can never tow that much. And the fact that the unicorn truck is hauling a unicorn trailer that has only 10% tongue weight, or less.

Don't let unicorns give you headaches. Even Ford's unicorns.

charles_slc

No it won't.

Only the Heavy Duty Payload package (HDPP) changes the frame.

Tow package adds aux transmission cooler & upgraded front stabilizer
Max tow adds the above + upgraded rear bumper and axle, Trailer brake controller, 36g gas tank...

OP, a new truck would give you a stronger engine. But with a boat as opposed to a travel trailer, it's probably not needed.

You'd also gain a 400-500 pounds of extra payload capacity with a 15+ truck assuming your current one doesn't have the MAX TOW option.

Figuring out if you need that extra capacity would involve a trip to the scales as suggested.

atwowheelguy

Never stop the payments when the loan is paid off. Just keep making the payments to yourself into a savings account. When the inevitable purchase time comes, pay cash and tell the bank to go jump in the lake. I haven't made a vehicle loan payment in 25 years. If you can afford to pay the bank, you can afford to pay yourself.

acdii

There is nothing wrong with a Husky round bar WDH, just because it is half the cost of the Equlizer. I have been using one for 17 years now, and only recently added one sway bar control to it for the Travel trailer. Prior to that it was used for a horse trailer which weighs about what your boat weighs.

The MOST important thing about WDH, no matter Who makes it, or what type it is, set it up properly, and it will work.

Now, I hate to say this because you will need more Tylenol, but you need to research the boat trailer to see if it is compatible with a WDH as some are not. Venture trailer for example will not warrant the trailer if a WDH is used since they are all aluminum and a WDH can cause damage to it. Setting one up on a boat trailer can be tricky due to the single pole configuration, so you will need to take some measurements from the ball socket back to see if you need the pole adapter or if the tip-ups or cam brackets will fit on the pole, or on the V.

I suggest gathering that information up and asking Etrailer on their recommendations for the proper hitch to use for your trailer.