GAZRNR

Hi - I have a 2016 F150 XL Reg cab 3.5 NA. The truck came with the class IV hitch and the 4 & 7 pin connectors. I have added the Ford indash trailer brake controller and had it enabled at the dealership. I am installing the factory trans cooler & planning to remove the 355 locker and install the 373 locker. If I follow the Ford towing specs chart this will increase the max towing from 5000 to 7600 lbs and GCVW from 9400 to 12,000 lbs.

I am looking to pull a 4800 lb trailer that has a max GVWR of 6000 lbs. The trailer fully loaded for my use will be @5500 lbs and I will be @11000 Lbs GCVW. The trailer has electric brakes on all 4 wheels and I will be using a ProPride Sway Control Hitch.

While it will not be a rocket towing this trailer I am concerned for my safety and the others on the road. Am I on track here as I setup the truck or miss reading the Ford towing specs chart? Also, I read an earlier post where I must wire in a connection to allow the trailer battery to charge while being towed...Is this correct? Your input and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Rusty

Gene K

Rewrote to avoid the Safety *****:

I'm not sure why Ford incresses the GCWR 28% for a 5% increase in gear.

I do know the 4WD with 3.73 is rated 30% higher and has 4% taller tires which meens only a 1℅ difference in rpm.

I would add the factory engine oil cooler. According to my understanding it's not standard with the 3.5 Ti-VCT. Only comes with the 53A Tow Package.


Edit:
I was thinking my truck came with the relay like my older truck but it didn't. Just the pigtail for an aftermarket brake controller.

I believe you should be okay with the 53B Class IV Hitch Option. It comes with the Smart Tow Connector so It should power the trailer battery once you name the trailer and step on the brake at least my 53A did. As far as I know the dealer didn't rewire anything when he installed the FiTBC before I took delivery.

GAZRNR

Gene, thanks for your reply. I have gone thru all the calculations and threads on properly sizing the tow vehicle to the job at hand until my head was spinning. I see what you are saying about the 5% gearing change and Fords towing rating increase on that change. I guess the only way to know is to properly hitch up with the WD hitch, set the trailer brakes and go for it.

Barristersteve

With the Propride Hitch you will be avoiding potential sway and stability issues. Not sure that you'll need to change out the rear end with that weight of trailer as the Eco will have plenty of torque to get you up and down the mountain. The six speed transmissions really diminish the difference between the 3.55 and 3.73 rear ends. I think after 2015 the Eco Max Tow package has only come with the 3.55 and I have not read any complaints about lack of power due to gearing.


My current TT is 8,000 lbs and I wouldn't tow without the Propride. Have never had a concern with stability or braking. The extra 100 ft lbs of torque of the Eco would be nice when mountain climbing, but I am able to maintain the speed limits with some extra RPM on my 5.4. I added airbags ($300) and just use a handheld battery pump to inflate the airbags and I went to LT tires when it came time to replace the stock tires.

redranger04g

He has the 3.5 V6, not the Eco

Barristersteve

You are correct. My bad. Missed the NA.

GAZRNR

Question on truck setup for a first trailer pull with WD hitch. I have searched the site but cannot find an answer so I am seeking advice from experienced TT towers. I have not picked up the hitch yet but leaning towards the ProPride when I make the purchase. I have looked online for instructions on how to setup this hitch but have not found anything other than some folks saying it's a bit more work to setup but well worth it when properly adjusted.

Would this be the procedure for the PP or other WD hitch?

Start by measuring center of fender F&R to ground - measures 37 F & 38 R full of gas but no gear.
1) I level the trailer tongue
2) back up to trailer and set top of ball/stinger to 1 inch above top of latch on trailer
3) attach trailer & lower jack - then remeasure fender to ground F&R - this would be a starting point to then use the WD feature to correct.

For discussion lets say the rear drops 3 inches and front raises 1.5 inch and I need to correct this.
4) use trailer jack to raise trailer taking pressure off the hitch - then tighten the WD screws equally and lower trailer jack so all weight in on the truck/trailer. remeasure

What am I looking for as I level the truck - EX: 36 F & 36 R? is this the best setting for the weight distribution - and is there a range to be in if I cannot get to equal drop front to rear? in this range is it better to be front number higher or lower and if yes by how much?

5) once truck weight distribution is set & truck/trailer "leveled" I check the trailer tongue and I am looking for a slight down angle on the tongue? If the tongue is now level or up or down to far I will need to re position the ball/stinger - then recheck all measurements and tinker until everything is set with the truck sag even & slight down angle on trailer tongue. - How much down tongue angle am I looking using a bubble level 1/3 to 1/2 bubble? I am looking to get a safe setup to get to a scale @30 miles from home.

6) scale the truck - as long as I am within both GCWR & max axel weights and under my max payload I am good to go. At this point I would deduct the weight of the hitch plus tongue weight to get my remaining payload?

The amount under max payload will then dictate how much gear I can carry? I understand as I add gear I will need to work thru the setup process to ensure proper loading & safety.

Am I over thinking this or missing something as I prepare to embark on pulling a TT? I am looking for a good/safe starting point and I realize that as I add gear to trailer and box of the truck I will need to redo this process.

If there is a better way setup for safe towing please let me know. Your thoughts and input would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

Ricktwuhk

That wording implies you are looking at a chart somewhere, so the answer is no.

On your door jamb is your payload. Yellow sticker. That number, minus the WDH, minus all the people including yourself, minus any mods made to the truck is your remaining payload.

If you add anything to the truck - coolers, luggage, that comes off too.

Then, take the remaining number and divide by .13 (13% average tongue weight). That's the MAX loaded trailer you can have, WDH or no WDH.

Don't buy a trailer, or a WDH, until you understand the limits of your truck. Max loaded trailer could be as low as just under 5,000 pounds. Could be 7,000 pounds. Almost never is over 8,000 pounds.

lutter5-0

Are they still using the 9.75" rear end on the heavier duty (not 7 bolt/6 bolt talk, but just a heavier option) pickups?

smokeywren

If you order the ProPride hitch, complete instructions come with it. Follow them to a "T".


Generally, begin with a trailer floor that's level, front to rear. After you have the hitch installed and adjusted with the spring bars tight, the floor of the trailer should still be level, front to rear.


Measure the distance to the ground of the front fender well of the tow vehicle without the trailer tied on. (Write down that distance, because you'll use it every time you connect to the trailer.) Then tie on the wet and loaded trailer and tighten the spring bars until you get very close to that same distance to the ground of that same spot on the front fender well.


Then regardless of the varying weight in the trailer, if you get the front wheel well distance right, you'll have the proper spring bar tension for your tongue weight.


One big advantage of the ProPride hitch is the ease of changing the tension on the spring bars. If your front fender well is not the right height with the trailer tied on, then change it until it's the right height. With a helper, it's a snap. One person turns the screws on the hitch while the other watches the measuring stick and hollers when it's the right distance.


If you followed the ProPride install instructions to the letter, and then adjust the spring bars with the big ProPride screws, you should have a properly adjusted hitch with a trailer that's level, front to rear.


Don't worry about the distance from the rear of the truck to the ground. If you get the front wheel well distance right, the rear end will take care of itself.