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I took the TT back to the CAT scales loaded up for the holiday weekend.
TV: 16’ F-150 Max Tow / 6.5’ SCREW with 1,865 lb payload TT: 18’ Freedom Express 28 BHDS (33’ overall) with 7,600 GWR WDH: Blue Ox SwayPro 1500
Pass 1 - TV and TT unhooked: SA: 3,300 (37”) DA: 2,540 (39.5”) TA: 6,900 GW: 12,740
Pass 2 - TV and TT hooked but no WD: SA: 2,940 (37.75”) DA: 3,840 (37”) TA: 5,980 GW: 12,760
Pass 3 - TV and TT hooked and WD at 8 links SA: 3,180 (37.25”) DA: 3,460 (37.5”) TA: 6,100 GW: 12,740
Pass 4 - TV and TT hooked and WD at 9 links SA: 3,200 (37.5”) DA: 3,400 (37.5”) TA: 6,120 GW: 12,720
I drove around 50 miles with it on 8 links and around 50 miles with it on 9 links and the trailer definitely felt more planted and not wanting to sway nearly as much. My only concern is 9 links is a little tough to put on and off so I didn’t try 10 links.
Thoughts? Does 9 seem good weight wise? Or should I try to get the weight more equal between the axels?
It appears I’m under all my weight limits though and running around 15% tongue based off calculations from weigh 1 and 2.
Lift the truck and camper higher with the jack before putting the bars on, it decreases the distance between the bar and pop up bracket making it easier pull the bar up. People look at me funny with the rear of my truck up when putting the bars on but i can also do it by hand and i don't have to worry about struggling with it.
Lift the truck and camper higher with the jack before putting the bars on, it decreases the distance between the bar and pop up bracket making it easier pull the bar up. People look at me funny with the rear of my truck up when putting the bars on but i can also do it by hand and i don't have to worry about struggling with it.
Actually that should be the proper way to do it. And further more, that is working smart, not hard heh.
See far to many people put the jack in the travel position and THEN try to put the bars on, grab a beer and popcorn and watch the show lol.
No, watching folks backing up is a better show! lol There out sites out there that are really tight and sometimes it takes me a long time to back up and when folks starts to watch, I tell them I'm going to start charging cause it's not a free show lol.
On a perfectly level surface lifting the jack all the way up works great, unfortunately some campgrounds aren't that level and even with the jack all the way up it's not enough to get the bars off easily.
How do my weights look? Is only having 200lbs variance between F&R axels is acceptable?
On a perfectly level surface lifting the jack all the way up works great, unfortunately some campgrounds aren't that level and even with the jack all the way up it's not enough to get the bars off easily.
How do my weights look? Is only having 200lbs variance between F&R axels is acceptable?
I bring a block or jack stand and crib the jack, if that's not enough i just move the camper to somewhere more level and finish hitching up.
Weights look fine, but what matters is how it tows, any sway? getting the number close is a good start/validation but you may have to tune it to how it feels too as each truck and camper combo will tow different.
If it tows fine I’d run with it. Numbers look good. Personally I prefer to get the front axle back to 100% of unloaded weight. It just doesn’t feel right to me otherwise. Try 10 and see if drives better than 9.
No, watching folks backing up is a better show! lol There out sites out there that are really tight and sometimes it takes me a long time to back up and when folks starts to watch, I tell them I'm going to start charging cause it's not a free show lol.