Question on OEM Brake Controller operation
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Question on OEM Brake Controller operation
2013 XLT Eco crew 6.5 4x4
I'm towing a 5000# single axle camper/ice fishing house. It has electric brakes.
I'm having trouble with the brakes on the trailer activating very suddenly in my opinion. I've tried a gain setting from 4.5 all the way to 10. When the brakes get to a certain application point it will jerk the truck back, or if on slippery roads lock the brakes up.
When watching the trailer brake output in the dash this happens right at 4 bars. I can tell the brakes are applying pretty smoothly when I brake from 1 bar through 3 bars, But as soon as that fourth bar comes up on the brake output the trailer either locks the wheels if on slippery surfaces or jerks me back on dry pavement.
This is my first trailer with trailer brakes, and my first experience with a brake controller. Do you guys think I'm dealing with my own inexperience or something wrong on the truck or trailer side of things?
Let me know if there is something I can check or expand on, again this is my first vehicle with a brake controller and my first trailer with brakes.
Thank you.
I'm towing a 5000# single axle camper/ice fishing house. It has electric brakes.
I'm having trouble with the brakes on the trailer activating very suddenly in my opinion. I've tried a gain setting from 4.5 all the way to 10. When the brakes get to a certain application point it will jerk the truck back, or if on slippery roads lock the brakes up.
When watching the trailer brake output in the dash this happens right at 4 bars. I can tell the brakes are applying pretty smoothly when I brake from 1 bar through 3 bars, But as soon as that fourth bar comes up on the brake output the trailer either locks the wheels if on slippery surfaces or jerks me back on dry pavement.
This is my first trailer with trailer brakes, and my first experience with a brake controller. Do you guys think I'm dealing with my own inexperience or something wrong on the truck or trailer side of things?
Let me know if there is something I can check or expand on, again this is my first vehicle with a brake controller and my first trailer with brakes.
Thank you.
#2
Senior Member
My guess is that your trailer brakes are badly adjusted or just screwed up.
I would adjust them then try again.
You could also try another trailer (known to have good brakes!) to be sure it's not the OEM controller.
My OEM controller has worked very well on two diff trailers.
I would adjust them then try again.
You could also try another trailer (known to have good brakes!) to be sure it's not the OEM controller.
My OEM controller has worked very well on two diff trailers.
#3
Senior Member
Trailer brake shoes could be worn out (metal to metal) or shoes could be covered with grease.
Cheapest way to fix trailer brakes is to replace entire brake asm with backing plate. Can be had for about $40 at etrailer.com. Just need dia of drum and width of shoe. Drum comes separate. Of course you should replace grease seal and regrease bearings.
Cheapest way to fix trailer brakes is to replace entire brake asm with backing plate. Can be had for about $40 at etrailer.com. Just need dia of drum and width of shoe. Drum comes separate. Of course you should replace grease seal and regrease bearings.
#4
Grumpy Old Man
Hi, CardGuy, and welcome to the party.
It sounds like you have set too much gain. You should never set enough gain that the brakes will lock up. Back off the gain until the brakes will work but will not lock when full brake pedal pressure is applied for more than two seconds or so. If your brakes are lockijng at 4.5, then back off to 4.0.
But you have to adjust the gain based on road conditions. You might need only 3.0 for slick roads but 4.0 for dry pavement.
On mine, I set the gain for around 5.0 for dry pavement, then check to be sure the brakes won't lock up after a few seconds of full brake pedal pressure. If the brakes lock, then back off a half.
It sounds like you have set too much gain. You should never set enough gain that the brakes will lock up. Back off the gain until the brakes will work but will not lock when full brake pedal pressure is applied for more than two seconds or so. If your brakes are lockijng at 4.5, then back off to 4.0.
But you have to adjust the gain based on road conditions. You might need only 3.0 for slick roads but 4.0 for dry pavement.
On mine, I set the gain for around 5.0 for dry pavement, then check to be sure the brakes won't lock up after a few seconds of full brake pedal pressure. If the brakes lock, then back off a half.
Last edited by smokeywren; 01-31-2015 at 08:36 PM.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I guess I wouldn't have thought the brakes could be bad yet, but I guess anything is possible in the land of road salt. Only have about 2000 miles towing on this 2014 trailer.
I'll have the brakes checked out first, then go from there. Thanks.
I'll have the brakes checked out first, then go from there. Thanks.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I did fail to mention the age of the trailer.
Being as this is mainly towed during the ice fishing season, it sees lots of salt and cruddy roads. It could likely have taken a toll on the brake system already. I'm still planning on checking them out first.
Thank you
Being as this is mainly towed during the ice fishing season, it sees lots of salt and cruddy roads. It could likely have taken a toll on the brake system already. I'm still planning on checking them out first.
Thank you
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#8
Senior Member
Sometimes when a trailer sits a while, and gets that rust coating on the inside of the drums, they can be a little "grabby" until they get used a little. It may be something that clears itself up after a few miles.