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-   -   New to towing (https://www.f150forum.com/f82/new-towing-475258/)

aburkdoll 05-12-2020 05:37 PM

New to towing
 
I just bought a used travel trailer from a buddy and I have never really towed before. He noted that his truck tows it fine so mine should be good also.

I have a 2011 F150 STX Supercab with the 5.0 and the trailer is a 2003 Trail Bay with a weight of 5633 I believe. VIN decoder says towing capacity is 7800 using a weight distributing hitch.

Surely there is more too it than the trailer weight of 5633 vs tow capacity of 7800. What do I need to be considering and cautious of when towing this thing?

chimmike 05-12-2020 05:41 PM

Read any of the 6 or 7 threads below yours in this section ;)

Ricktwuhk 05-12-2020 06:08 PM

Yup.

Start by reading your payload sticker.

aburkdoll 05-12-2020 06:10 PM

I've read through, each situation seems different based on truck configuration.

I guess what I'm asking is if it's not as simple as 7,800 minus passenger weight, minus camping gear weight, minus trailer weight, and wanting to not get a negative result?

sennister 05-12-2020 06:18 PM


Originally Posted by aburkdoll (Post 6585601)
I've read through, each situation seems different based on truck configuration.

I guess what I'm asking is if it's not as simple as 7,800 minus passenger weight, minus camping gear weight, minus trailer weight, and wanting to not get a negative result?

As others said. Not that easy. Ignore the 7800. It means little to nothing. Look at the payload sticker.

When you say a trailer weighs 5633 what is that? Is that the dry weight? Unless you are towing the camper with nothing in it, no battery no propane tanks, that number means nothing either. I would look at the big number that is going to be the gross weight. Work off of that because that is a properly loaded trailer as you would use it. Or at least it shouldn't be over that.

Then take that number and multiply by 0.13. That is the tongue weight that you are shooting for. Add 100# to that for the WD hitch. Take that number an subtract it from the payload sticker. Likely the one with the tire inflation numbers and such in the driver's door area of the truck. As I mentioned once you subtract that number you got from the trailer (weight x 0.13 + 100) - payload. That number that is remaining is what you have to play with for people and things in the truck. That includes any aftermarket or dealer installed option added to the truck as that wouldn't have been factored in with the payload calculation from the factory.

SpencerPJ 05-12-2020 06:37 PM


Originally Posted by aburkdoll (Post 6585601)
I've read through, each situation seems different based on truck configuration.

I guess what I'm asking is if it's not as simple as 7,800 minus passenger weight, minus camping gear weight, minus trailer weight, and wanting to not get a negative result?

As you read, you will find that there are several variables. Payload (it will be listed on a yellow sticker in the drivers door jam), might be called carry capacity, anyway, what is that weight #? Next, you bought a 2003 Trail Bay, there is another number after that, like TB21 or Bh26, something that we can look up what you bought so we can give you our advise.

aburkdoll 05-12-2020 06:48 PM


Originally Posted by sennister (Post 6585609)
As others said. Not that easy. Ignore the 7800. It means little to nothing. Look at the payload sticker.

When you say a trailer weighs 5633 what is that? Is that the dry weight? Unless you are towing the camper with nothing in it, no battery no propane tanks, that number means nothing either. I would look at the big number that is going to be the gross weight. Work off of that because that is a properly loaded trailer as you would use it. Or at least it shouldn't be over that.

Then take that number and multiply by 0.13. That is the tongue weight that you are shooting for. Add 100# to that for the WD hitch. Take that number an subtract it from the payload sticker. Likely the one with the tire inflation numbers and such in the driver's door area of the truck. As I mentioned once you subtract that number you got from the trailer (weight x 0.13 + 100) - payload. That number that is remaining is what you have to play with for people and things in the truck. That includes any aftermarket or dealer installed option added to the truck as that wouldn't have been factored in with the payload calculation from the factory.

Is payload "combined weight of cargo and occupatnts" ? If so that's 1545. Let's assume my gear that goes in the camper is 750lbs, added to the dry weight of 5633 yards 6383 x .13 you get 830. That's 930 when you include the wd hitch. So 1545 minus 930 gives me 615 to work with riding inside the truck?

sennister 05-12-2020 07:31 PM


Originally Posted by aburkdoll (Post 6585660)
Is payload "combined weight of cargo and occupatnts" ? If so that's 1545. Let's assume my gear that goes in the camper is 750lbs, added to the dry weight of 5633 yards 6383 x .13 you get 830. That's 930 when you include the wd hitch. So 1545 minus 930 gives me 615 to work with riding inside the truck?

Payload is everything in the truck that wasn't there when it left the factory. So people, cell phones, bed liners, bed covers, mud stuck in the wheel wells, full tank of gas, the WD hitch, tongue weight of the camper.

That is basically what you are looking at for a weight. Again, just rough math. Also keep in mind you want to move everything you can to the trailer. If it is 100# in the camper that was in the truck, then only 13% of that counts against the payload vs all of it.

ifallsron 05-12-2020 07:59 PM

You're at the top end of your tow capabilities. You'll be OK for rolling terrain and 2-3 hour trips at moderate speeds.


aburkdoll 05-12-2020 08:30 PM


Originally Posted by ifallsron (Post 6585747)
You're at the top end of your tow capabilities. You'll be OK for rolling terrain and 2-3 hour trips at moderate speeds.


These are going to be 1-2 hour trips tops over flat/gently rolling terrain.


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