New to towing
 

I just bought a used travel trailer from a buddy and I have never really towed before. He noted that his truck tows it fine so mine should be good also.

I have a 2011 F150 STX Supercab with the 5.0 and the trailer is a 2003 Trail Bay with a weight of 5633 I believe. VIN decoder says towing capacity is 7800 using a weight distributing hitch.

Surely there is more too it than the trailer weight of 5633 vs tow capacity of 7800. What do I need to be considering and cautious of when towing this thing?

Read any of the 6 or 7 threads below yours in this section ;)

Yup.

Start by reading your payload sticker.

I've read through, each situation seems different based on truck configuration.

I guess what I'm asking is if it's not as simple as 7,800 minus passenger weight, minus camping gear weight, minus trailer weight, and wanting to not get a negative result?

As others said. Not that easy. Ignore the 7800. It means little to nothing. Look at the payload sticker.

When you say a trailer weighs 5633 what is that? Is that the dry weight? Unless you are towing the camper with nothing in it, no battery no propane tanks, that number means nothing either. I would look at the big number that is going to be the gross weight. Work off of that because that is a properly loaded trailer as you would use it. Or at least it shouldn't be over that.

Then take that number and multiply by 0.13. That is the tongue weight that you are shooting for. Add 100# to that for the WD hitch. Take that number an subtract it from the payload sticker. Likely the one with the tire inflation numbers and such in the driver's door area of the truck. As I mentioned once you subtract that number you got from the trailer (weight x 0.13 + 100) - payload. That number that is remaining is what you have to play with for people and things in the truck. That includes any aftermarket or dealer installed option added to the truck as that wouldn't have been factored in with the payload calculation from the factory.

As you read, you will find that there are several variables. Payload (it will be listed on a yellow sticker in the drivers door jam), might be called carry capacity, anyway, what is that weight #? Next, you bought a 2003 Trail Bay, there is another number after that, like TB21 or Bh26, something that we can look up what you bought so we can give you our advise.

Is payload "combined weight of cargo and occupatnts" ? If so that's 1545. Let's assume my gear that goes in the camper is 750lbs, added to the dry weight of 5633 yards 6383 x .13 you get 830. That's 930 when you include the wd hitch. So 1545 minus 930 gives me 615 to work with riding inside the truck?

Payload is everything in the truck that wasn't there when it left the factory. So people, cell phones, bed liners, bed covers, mud stuck in the wheel wells, full tank of gas, the WD hitch, tongue weight of the camper.

That is basically what you are looking at for a weight. Again, just rough math. Also keep in mind you want to move everything you can to the trailer. If it is 100# in the camper that was in the truck, then only 13% of that counts against the payload vs all of it.

You're at the top end of your tow capabilities. You'll be OK for rolling terrain and 2-3 hour trips at moderate speeds.

These are going to be 1-2 hour trips tops over flat/gently rolling terrain.

I do not have it in possession and I am waiting on title but I am 99% sure it is a 2003 Trail Bay 27DS. If that is right then I believe the dry weight is actually 4,941.

I stand corrected. 2004 M27DS so it looks like dry weight is 5,623.

Need to buy a WD hitch now, any suggestions for my setup?

I'm a fan of the 4 point equalizer system. A few good options to choose from but that's why my bias lies. Blue ox is highly regarded but very expensive.

Dry Weights are useless and no longer apply as soon as battery(ies) and propane are added.
More important for planning is the trailer's GVWR on the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Cert (White sticker just like on the truck)

Keep an eye on your payload, other than that enjoy having one of Fords most underrated towing set ups of all time. The 2010 version of your truck with the 5.4 with less power and torque was rated to tow 10k plus with the same transmission and axle ratio.

I had a 2013 STX with quite a bit more payload than you have, but I towed 9k with it frequently and 10k on occasion. I always stayed within payload and axle ratings in regard to weight(due to my trailer set up) but was well north of the GCWR at times. I never had any issues with lack of power or control. I have been towing everything from grain wagons to boats, RVs, equipment trailers, and horse trailers since I was 16 so I have a fair amount of experience. I would say this truck was among my favorite tow vehicles of all time. It was stable, reliable, powerful and easy to drive.

So can I do anything to my truck to increase my payload capacity?

I also recommend the Equalizer 4 point.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/how-equalizer-works

Unfortunately there is not other than removing some other weight from the truck. I suppose that you could tell your wife to loose weight but I wouldn't recommend it unless she has a great sense of humor :)

Technically and legally, no.
GVWR is what it is.
Curb weight can be reduced by gutting the truck....but if that's much weight at all aside from removing all but the driver's seat, I'd be surprised.
But at whatever point you exceed payload, you busted the truck's GVWR.