Need help/advice for options
#21
Opinionated Blowhard
3.55 E locker would be my choice. You will not notice the mileage difference.
I have a 14 Screw EB with 3.73. My 11 Screw EB had 3.31. In my daily local driving there is almost no significant difference between the two. And the 14 is heavier by about 300 lbs.
Agree with others that you will be happier in the long run. The exception is long, open road travel at 70 mph or higher. 3.31 will serve you best if that is you situation most of the time.
I have a 14 Screw EB with 3.73. My 11 Screw EB had 3.31. In my daily local driving there is almost no significant difference between the two. And the 14 is heavier by about 300 lbs.
Agree with others that you will be happier in the long run. The exception is long, open road travel at 70 mph or higher. 3.31 will serve you best if that is you situation most of the time.
#22
Thank you everyone for the responses, yesterday was crazy and I didn't get the chance to check this thread after I left work.
So from reading what everyone has posted it sounds like I need to step up to the 3.55 gearing and find myself a weight distribution hitch, then I should be all set. (Please correct me if I'm wrong... I'd rather do things the right way the first time!)
I did read a post saying that I should get the HD package, I would but for some reason it's not compatible with the 302A package. when I try to add it on Ford's website it says I need to remove the 302A in order to add the HD.
Edit* Someone else also asked if I was planning on getting larger tires down the road... this is a good possibility. Does this have some added affect on towing? (Aside from the obvious, larger tires=lower mpg)
So from reading what everyone has posted it sounds like I need to step up to the 3.55 gearing and find myself a weight distribution hitch, then I should be all set. (Please correct me if I'm wrong... I'd rather do things the right way the first time!)
I did read a post saying that I should get the HD package, I would but for some reason it's not compatible with the 302A package. when I try to add it on Ford's website it says I need to remove the 302A in order to add the HD.
Edit* Someone else also asked if I was planning on getting larger tires down the road... this is a good possibility. Does this have some added affect on towing? (Aside from the obvious, larger tires=lower mpg)
Last edited by CityBoy; 08-20-2015 at 06:52 AM.
#23
Thank you everyone for the responses, yesterday was crazy and I didn't get the chance to check this thread after I left work.
So from reading what everyone has posted it sounds like I need to step up to the 3.55 gearing and find myself a weight distribution hitch, then I should be all set. (Please correct me if I'm wrong... I'd rather do things the right way the first time!)
I did read a post saying that I should get the HD package, I would but for some reason it's not compatible with the 302A package. when I try to add it on Ford's website it says I need to remove the 302A in order to add the HD.
Edit* Someone else also asked if I was planning on getting larger tires down the road... this is a good possibility. Does this have some added affect on towing? (Aside from the obvious, larger tires=lower mpg)
So from reading what everyone has posted it sounds like I need to step up to the 3.55 gearing and find myself a weight distribution hitch, then I should be all set. (Please correct me if I'm wrong... I'd rather do things the right way the first time!)
I did read a post saying that I should get the HD package, I would but for some reason it's not compatible with the 302A package. when I try to add it on Ford's website it says I need to remove the 302A in order to add the HD.
Edit* Someone else also asked if I was planning on getting larger tires down the road... this is a good possibility. Does this have some added affect on towing? (Aside from the obvious, larger tires=lower mpg)
#24
Senior Member
Unfortunately, the HD Payload package does restrict which options and cab configurations you can get. Otherwise it's an excellent option for those who tow heavy.
If you were interested in a goose-neck or fifth wheel, it would be an especially good option to have as it comes with a stronger rear axle with a higher rear GAWR, and those types of trailers tend to have higher pin weights and put more weight on your truck's rear axle.
But Ford has said it will not be producing any 2015 HD Payload trucks. You would have to wait for the 2016 models, maybe 6-8 months?
If you were interested in a goose-neck or fifth wheel, it would be an especially good option to have as it comes with a stronger rear axle with a higher rear GAWR, and those types of trailers tend to have higher pin weights and put more weight on your truck's rear axle.
But Ford has said it will not be producing any 2015 HD Payload trucks. You would have to wait for the 2016 models, maybe 6-8 months?
#25
OR am I just delusional in thinking there's some crazy mpg gain between 3.55 & 3.73? if not then I might as well go 3.73....
as stated in my original post, I currently live in the city but in a few years I'll be headed west to Colorado. Maybe 3.73 wouldn't be a bad idea...
#26
Unfortunately, the HD Payload package does restrict which options and cab configurations you can get. Otherwise it's an excellent option for those who tow heavy.
If you were interested in a goose-neck or fifth wheel, it would be an especially good option to have as it comes with a stronger rear axle with a higher rear GAWR, and those types of trailers tend to have higher pin weights and put more weight on your truck's rear axle.
But Ford has said it will not be producing any 2015 HD Payload trucks. You would have to wait for the 2016 models, maybe 6-8 months?
If you were interested in a goose-neck or fifth wheel, it would be an especially good option to have as it comes with a stronger rear axle with a higher rear GAWR, and those types of trailers tend to have higher pin weights and put more weight on your truck's rear axle.
But Ford has said it will not be producing any 2015 HD Payload trucks. You would have to wait for the 2016 models, maybe 6-8 months?
but to be completely honest, I don't ever see myself towing anything requiring a goose-neck and in the event that I do need to, I'm sure my buddies out there would let me steal one of their trucks.
#27
Senior Member
Larger tires, more wind resistance, more importantly rolling resistance.
Going slightly larger doesn't impact performance overmuch, however you'd be surprised how much can change by going 1.5" or more over stock.
For example on my 2013 F150 the stock tire size is a 275/65R18, which is about 32"x11"
I could probably go to a 33x12.5 without issue, it would be a bit more of a dog, and take a bit longer to stop. However I would get a noticeable performance hit by going up to a 35" or 34"
IMO the biggest concern about towing with oversize tires isn't hits in pulling, it's the extra stopping time you need. Trailer brakes definitely help with this, but the important thing to keep in mind is that once you change the suspension/tires, the vehicle no longer operates like it was designed and tested for. Drive carefully.
Going slightly larger doesn't impact performance overmuch, however you'd be surprised how much can change by going 1.5" or more over stock.
For example on my 2013 F150 the stock tire size is a 275/65R18, which is about 32"x11"
I could probably go to a 33x12.5 without issue, it would be a bit more of a dog, and take a bit longer to stop. However I would get a noticeable performance hit by going up to a 35" or 34"
IMO the biggest concern about towing with oversize tires isn't hits in pulling, it's the extra stopping time you need. Trailer brakes definitely help with this, but the important thing to keep in mind is that once you change the suspension/tires, the vehicle no longer operates like it was designed and tested for. Drive carefully.
#28
Larger tires, more wind resistance, more importantly rolling resistance.
Going slightly larger doesn't impact performance overmuch, however you'd be surprised how much can change by going 1.5" or more over stock.
For example on my 2013 F150 the stock tire size is a 275/65R18, which is about 32"x11"
I could probably go to a 33x12.5 without issue, it would be a bit more of a dog, and take a bit longer to stop. However I would get a noticeable performance hit by going up to a 35" or 34"
IMO the biggest concern about towing with oversize tires isn't hits in pulling, it's the extra stopping time you need. Trailer brakes definitely help with this, but the important thing to keep in mind is that once you change the suspension/tires, the vehicle no longer operates like it was designed and tested for. Drive carefully.
Going slightly larger doesn't impact performance overmuch, however you'd be surprised how much can change by going 1.5" or more over stock.
For example on my 2013 F150 the stock tire size is a 275/65R18, which is about 32"x11"
I could probably go to a 33x12.5 without issue, it would be a bit more of a dog, and take a bit longer to stop. However I would get a noticeable performance hit by going up to a 35" or 34"
IMO the biggest concern about towing with oversize tires isn't hits in pulling, it's the extra stopping time you need. Trailer brakes definitely help with this, but the important thing to keep in mind is that once you change the suspension/tires, the vehicle no longer operates like it was designed and tested for. Drive carefully.
That's a good point to remember, I think I'd be ok with 32's or 33's but maybe in the beginning just go slight wider... or may not touch anything lift/tires wise until my warranty is done (Not that I'm afraid of voiding it, I've read the Moss Act 100 times. just because I'm not interested in complicating towing from the get go)
#29
Grumpy Old Man
Of course. For a 2015 or later, you want the HD Payload package and the Max Tow pkg. That means you need the more-powerful 3.5L EcoBoost engine instead of the antiquated 5.0L. Don't be afraid of the twin-turbo EcoBoost. Mine has been wonderful for over 55,000 mines and I expect it to last well over the 100,000 mile mark.
I've read a few things on the forum that say the receiver is class IV but you're still stuck at 5000# (or something like that, I may not have truly understood what I was reading)
Don't confuse weight-carrying with weight distribution. The F-150 receiver is rated for 5,000-to-6,000 pounds gross trailer weight when used with a weight-carrying hitch. But it's rated 10,000 pounds or more gross trailer weight when used with a weight-distributing hitch.
Any trailer that can gross more than 5,000 pounds or tongue weight more than 500 pounds requires a weight-distributing hitch. And even city boys know better than to exceed the hitch weight limits.
My daughter's two-horse trailer has GVWR of 7,000 pounds. That trailer when loaded for a rodeo requires an F-150 with the HD Payload Package, or an F-250. It also requires a weight-distributing hitch because her tongue weight is well over 500 pounds. So before you buy a horse trailer, be certain the dealer can install a weight-distributing hitch. Some V-nose and U-nose horse trailers cannot have a weight-distributing hitch installed on them because the front of the box is too close to the coupler.
http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Curt/C45034.html
But with a weight DISTRIBUTING hitch it's rated for 10,000 pounds or more. A hitch like this one:
http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distr...e/RP66084.html
Note that both weight carrying hitches and weight distributing hitches have a shank, ball mount, and ball, with the weight distributing hitches being a lot more complicated (and more expensive) because of adding the weight distributing spring bars, and the good ones also add built-in sway control or sway elimination.
Last edited by smokeywren; 08-20-2015 at 07:47 PM.
#30
Of course. For a 2015 or later, you want the HD Payload package and the Max Tow pkg. That means you need the more-powerful 3.5L EcoBoost engine instead of the antiquated 5.0L. Don't be afraid of the twin-turbo EcoBoost. Mine has been wonderful for over 55,000 mines and I expect it to last well over the 100,000 mile mark.
That and the power difference isn't large enough to make me jump ship.
Along with gas mileage, from a logical (logical not mechanical) stand point it doesn't make sense, the point of a turbo/super is "Forced Induction" or more air in the chamber, this requires a correction to the fuel/air mixture.
I'm no expert in regards to turbo/supers but what I assume is that when you increase air you must increase gas... More gas used, less gas mileage. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, I have a feeling I am.
Don't confuse weight-carrying with weight distribution. The F-150 receiver is rated for 5,000-to-6,000 pounds gross trailer weight when used with a weight-carrying hitch. But it's rated 10,000 pounds or more gross trailer weight when used with a weight-distributing hitch.
Any trailer that can gross more than 5,000 pounds or tongue weight more than 500 pounds requires a weight-distributing hitch. And even city boys know better than to exceed the hitch weight limits.
My daughter's two-horse trailer has GVWR of 7,000 pounds. That trailer when loaded for a rodeo requires an F-150 with the HD Payload Package, or an F-250. It also requires a weight-distributing hitch because her tongue weight is well over 500 pounds. So before you buy a horse trailer, be certain the dealer can install a weight-distributing hitch. Some V-nose and U-nose horse trailers cannot have a weight-distributing hitch installed on them because the front of the box is too close to the coupler.
Any trailer that can gross more than 5,000 pounds or tongue weight more than 500 pounds requires a weight-distributing hitch. And even city boys know better than to exceed the hitch weight limits.
My daughter's two-horse trailer has GVWR of 7,000 pounds. That trailer when loaded for a rodeo requires an F-150 with the HD Payload Package, or an F-250. It also requires a weight-distributing hitch because her tongue weight is well over 500 pounds. So before you buy a horse trailer, be certain the dealer can install a weight-distributing hitch. Some V-nose and U-nose horse trailers cannot have a weight-distributing hitch installed on them because the front of the box is too close to the coupler.
Simple. Your receiver is rated for only 5,000 pounds or so maximum gross trailer weighty, and only 500-pounds or so maximum tongue weight, with a weight CARRYING hitch. IOW, a simple weight-carrying drawbar/shank/ball mount with a trailer ball on it. Like this one:
http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Curt/C45034.html
But with a weight DISTRIBUTING hitch it's rated for 10,000 pounds or more. A hitch like this one:
http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distr...e/RP66084.html
Note that both weight carrying hitches and weight distributing hitches have a shank, ball mount, and ball, with the weight distributing hitches being a lot more complicated (and more expensive) because of adding the weight distributing spring bars, and the good ones also add built-in sway control or sway elimination.
http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Curt/C45034.html
But with a weight DISTRIBUTING hitch it's rated for 10,000 pounds or more. A hitch like this one:
http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distr...e/RP66084.html
Note that both weight carrying hitches and weight distributing hitches have a shank, ball mount, and ball, with the weight distributing hitches being a lot more complicated (and more expensive) because of adding the weight distributing spring bars, and the good ones also add built-in sway control or sway elimination.
I'm sorry, I'm really trying to understand this towing part. I definitely understand not exceeding your hitch/receiver rating since that's how bad things happen. I'm just trying to find out what I'll be able to tow with the 5.0 and a tow package. (If I need to upgrade to a higher class hitch/receiver I can)