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It's a balance act between your TV dropping it's back end and your TT being up too high at the tongue. Neither is a good situations as far as I'm concerned. Hey Mikeup.....with the additonal tension link on your hitch..is your trailer now too high at the front? It appears your trailer is nice and level in this picture.
No, if you look at the pic, the truck is actually squatting a bit. The trailer is more level now and the trailer is not nose high either. In fact, with 4 1/2 links showing, the trailer tongue dropped a bit to much.
Now it's nice and level. I had pics but they got wiped when my previous Samsung Galaxy POS Note 4 (yep, not just the Note 7 ) overheated so much, I couldn't even hold it.
I don't think they got backed up but if they did, I'll post here.
Here's a shot of the same rig, same time, same spot, but from the door side of the trailer. The rig is on a little hill and the squat is seen better in this opposing profile pic of the rig.
This is where you can take advantage of the adjustable height on the shank.
Upon delivery, the dealer had set the tongue on my trailer 4" higher than the rear. During the drive home, the trailer felt like it had some sway and wanted to wander a bit. I do think part of this was that it was higher and cutting through the air causing some unnecessary turbulence.
Once home, I made sure the tension was set right and then dropped the ball 2" on the shank to make the trailer completely level to the ground. Just that one adjustment made a noticeable difference in how the trailer towed.
The initial set up of the WDH is quite a bit of fine tuning; however, once set up correctly, they are pure magic.
Agreed!!! It's important to understand when they say it is safer to have 10-15% of the trailer weight on the tongue. Much of your stability comes from there!
Here's a shot of the rig with the correct 3 1/2 chain links for a more level truck and trailer. While the tongue jack foot is down, it isn't touching ground and all weight is on the spring bars.
Here's a shot of the rig with the correct 3 1/2 chain links for a more level truck and trailer. While the tongue jack foot is down, it isn't touching ground and all weight is on the spring bars.
how are your measurements from the top of the wheel well to ground, both front a rear?
I didn't take measurements. I could see it was squatting the truck and trailer more than it should. I took 2 trips with that adjustment and it just didn't handle as well as I liked. It was more prone to sway and porpoising.
The truck actually seems to have the rear wheel well opening a bit higher than the front when level. So if you're looking at the wheel well openings, it gives a false sense of being level. Now if you look at the frame of the truck against the level road, you get a better sense of it being level or sagging in the rear.
Here's a pic for you. This is before I got my Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch system, and still had to use the Reese Strait-Line (HP Dual Cam) hitch to move the camper around. No spring bars attached.
This new 2016 suspension is much stronger than the 2012 F150 I had. This truck barely squats anymore than when I was using the Blue Ox and spring bars with 4 1/2 links. My 2012 squatted much more without the spring bars attached than this 2016 trucks does.
That's the one thing. This 2016 truck tows and handles a trailer much better, along with having much more payload than the 2012 and 2010 F150s I've had. The 2016, 2012, and 2010 were all Super Crew XLT 4WD 5.5' bed trucks with either the 5.4L 3V or 5.0L 4V V8 engines.
Forget rear wheel well height, the front height is the most important setting when setting up a WDH. Depending on the hitch, there are measurements needed. For example the husky RB I have has cup height which determines the ball height one inch higher, then there is the frame rail thickness which determines where the ends of the spring bars are above the ground which is adjusted with shims for the head tilt. Once these measurements line up, when all hitched the truck should sit properly with the front wheel well at or slightly above unloaded height. Once that is set, then the rear wheel well will sit where it's going to sit.
The husky Centerline is setup pretty much the same way as the round bar, the difference being that it is also a 2 point sway control. You can determine if the head is correct by leveling the frame of the trailer, measure the top of the ball socket, then check that the ball on the truck is 1 inch higher. Measure the frame thickness, 4, 5 or 6inch frame, and there should be a section in the manual that lists what the height of the tip of the bar should be compared to the frame. This will tell you if you have enough head tilt or not if the ball is the correct height.
When all of this is in place, get the weights of the rig with and without the bars setup and that should give you an idea if the trailer is properly loaded. Adjusting weight in the trailer at this point should resolve any other control issues(should I say, I am still having a control issue even though I have everything properly setup and distributed with my 16, I don't have a 2 point sway, so going to upgrade soon to either a Centerline TS or Blue Ox).
... so going to upgrade soon to either a Centerline TS or Blue Ox).
The Blue Ox is a premium hitch, while the CenterLine TS is an economy version. The correct Husky hitch to compare to the Blue Ox is the Centerline HD, Husky part number 31390.
When you locate a new Husky Centerline HD 31390 for sale, it will probably be the head only. Spring bars are required but sold separately.
I know, the Blue Ox would be if I can find a used one for what the TS sells for. $600 is a bit above my budget at the moment or it would have been done already.
08-13-2017, 10:08 PM
) overheated so much, I couldn't even hold it.
