Looking to purchase a ball mount but the mount's pin hole is about 3 inches more to the rear than the ideal spot. This puts the ball mount about 3" further away from the receiver end.

Is drilling new pin holes in the ball mount a normal safe practice to allow a better fit?

Thanks

 

You're wanting to re-drill the pin hole so the trailer ends up closer to the truck? I can't see why not. The only issue I can think of is you might have to shorten the tail of the mount tube if it now hits the spare tire, but I don't think that will happen with 3".

 

Thanks for the reply. The ball mount's hole is too far to the rear of the ball mount and it is long from the hole to the front. More specifically, the ball mount doesn't go very far into the receiver to match the pin hole, yet sticks out from the receiver end more than needed.

I'm not sure how far the ball mount must be inserted into the receiver for safe towing of heavy loads.

So the main question is; Is the practice of drilling an additional pin hole in the ball mount acceptable by towing standards?

Thanks

 

Buy one....then if something does happen...your not held for it....

http://www.curtmfg.com/Category/166/...0Ball%20Mounts

 

Thanks, I saw those too. I already have a ball mount ordered but may just go with the OEM one that has the correct length. I ordered the cushioned convert-a-ball one and thought about re drilling the side holes (slots) and turning around the cushions. The pin hole on my hitch is less than 2" from the end of the receiver and from that pin hole just under 5" to the end. I think in the end I will just return it and use the OEM with the correct pin hole position (but really wanted the cushioned one)

A pin hole on the ball mount located around 4-4.5" from to the rear and 2" from the front would be ideal.

Thanks.

 

Drilling a new hole a couple inches rearward (so the mount goes further into the receiver) is fine. I have one I made just like that except I needed it longer for an ATV trailer with a forward jack that hit the tailgate. I had to make a whole new stem, but its the same idea. I'm trying to find a pic. of it. I have it on one of my devices, somewhere.......
I use the "short" hole for heavier trailers, like my boat.

** Disclaimer ** -- Due to liability concerns I DO NOT recommend that others fabricate their own hitches or other structural components. I've been (among other things) a custom fabricator for 35 years. Primarily I build/modify farm implements.

 

Thanks Perry, I appreciate your time and input.

 

It depends. If you can drill the hole in the shank without creating much heat, then no big deal. Heat can change the temper of the steel and make it more brittle, thus less strong, thus unsafe. So be certain the drill bit is sharp and doesn't create much heat as it cuts the new hole in the shank. Use a drill press and lube the hole to be cut with cutting oil to reduce the heat going into the shank.

 

Ok, now you're just way-way-WAY over thinking this one. There is no way on earth the bit is going to transfer enough heat to the base stock to cause any material alteration. These things are made of mild steel and drill easily. Yes, use decent quality bits and some oil, but this is a super simple job.

To the OP, when you lay out the new hole measure very carefully and punch-mark both sides. Drill each side independently. Trying to bore straight through is likely to result in a hole alignment issue unless its being done in a mill. I'd do it in 3 steps. Something like 3/16 - 7/16 - 5/8.

 

I will second that Perry, no way, and I do work in the heat treat industry, that you need to worry. Also just to let you know, it would temper it further, not make it harder. Harder equals brittle, temper means soften or reduce hardness and results in tougher less brittle and more ductile steel. These are mild steel anyway and probably actually in a nearly annealed state.