Just bought a 2025 F-150 with the 3.5 EcoBoost motor. It’s a 4X4 Supercrew and has the Tow/Haul package and short bed. I’m looking at a 2026 SRD Flagstaff SuperLite RV. I think my truck can pull this camper but I don’t want to go to the upper limits of what’s possible. The camper has a hitch weight of 674 pounds, Dry weight is 6554, loaded is 8474, cargo 1920. This camper is 29 feet long, should I look at something smaller or is my truck capable of pulling this RV safely? I am very new to RV’ing and hopefully I can put my mind at ease.

 

That trailer is definitely at the limits of 1/2 ton capacity, I'd be very careful going ahead with a trailer that long and heavy as your first RV. Even though it is within limits and can be done safely, it will likely be far from a comfortable experience if you get above 55mph or so, or go up and down inclines/curves. You also never mention how big your family is but judging by the size of the camper it's unlikely they weigh less than 500-600lbs together and will continue to grow. Even with a high payload truck (you don't mention that number) you're likely going to exceed that. Expect that hitch weight to be 100-200lbs heavier when you're done loading it as well.

 

Your hitch weight will be about 850 lbs with an empty trailer and as much as 1100 lbs if loaded to the max GVWR. The 670 lbs is calculating 10% of empty trailer weight. About 13% is more realistic and you won't be pulling an empty trailer. I'd plan on around 1000 lbs tongue weight. Then you need to add about 100 additional pounds to account for the WDH. MAX Tow means your truck will PULL additional weight. You still have to stay within the payload guidelines. You need to check the sticker on the driver's door to determine your trucks payload. They are all over the place. Some F150's have as little as 1100 lbs payload, some over 2000 lbs.

MOST 4X4 Supercrews will vary between 1600-1800 +/- about 100 lbs. Find that number 1st then calculate how much weight you need to haul in the cab and bed of the truck. Let's say that you have 1800 lbs of payload. 1000 lbs of that will probably be in tongue weight, 100 for the WDH and that leaves about 700 for you, any passengers, and cargo in the truck. ASSUMING 1800 lbs of payload it's doable but you'll have to pack carefully so you're not overweight. If you're closer to 2000 lbs payload you have more room to work with. Closer to 1600 lbs, and you might want to look at a smaller trailer.

 

What is your payload?

 

Another case of someone buying an undersized truck for their needs/wants. There I said it in as few words as possible....

Brutal assessment...... I know. Hate me if you want to. You don't tell us the spec/payload of your truck. If its a Platinum/KR 13-1400 lbs, Lariat 1600, XLT 1850 these are commonly reported payloads.

Get a Weighsafe Weight distribution hitch. 100lbs off payload. You, wife, family several more hundred pounds. Miscellaneous stuff another 200.Trailer 800lbs easy, could get up to 1000. Truck's payload is more than gone. Sure the truck can pull it. But it can't control and stop it with the safety a Super Duty can. I've been been up in the 13000lbs once on winding and hilly back roads in upstate ski country NY, I wouldn't recommend it.

A Super Duty 250 or 350 (avoid diesel) would have been the far better and safer decision. Trade the truck. Get the trailer you want.

 

I needed a daily driver, this is the truck I chose, no regrets. I’ll buy a smaller trailer, no problem.

 

My two cents: our F150 is similar (1822# payload) to yours. Our experience is that Rockwood / Flagstaffs, on the road to the campground, tend to be tongue heavy.
The Flagstaff Super Lite 26SRD will have a GVWR rating 8474# (CCC 1920# + UVW 6554#), on the road the tongue weight will 1186# (14% of the GVWR). [btw: the manufacturers' tongue weight is at the end on the assembly line, dry, sans batteries, propane, camp gear etc - meaningless / mis-informaton for owner towing].

And the 26SRD at 29 feet, with the F150 on a 145 inch wheelbase the WB to Length guide shows the trailer would require a tow vehicle WB at 146 inches. (base guideline is 110 WB for a 20 foot trailer, add one foot for every additional four inches WB). And I acknowledge this is a guideline - for highway handing control. see: https://airstreamclub.org/sites/defa...cle-length.pdf

With a properly setup WDH (reminder: the WDH uses 100# of payload), new2rv your F150 could handle the 26SRD, how comfortable (for you and for others sharing the road) the handling will be is another issue, and also where you travel.

Given you are new to RV's, for the F150 as the tow vehicle suggest you look at 25 footers: the Rockwood MiniLite / Flagstaff MicroLite series. We have a Flagstaff MicroLite 22FBS (same as MiniLite 2205s) GVWR 6794# and 1,000 pounds tongue weight on the road to the campsite fresh water tank at one - third. With the WDH properly setup, we could feel the prairie winds and still be somewhat comfortable. Rocky Mountain grades are no problem using the tow/haul mode. Ford recommends Premium fuel (when towing) and it does slightly improve fuel economy, more importantly for improved performance.
Happy RV shopping: remember the RV sales person likely does not camp / glamp: too busy selling.
blue22EB3.5

 

I recommend you look at a trailer that has a GVWR nearer 7000#, maybe 7500#.
IMO, that is the comfortable F150 towing zone. Going for maximum family living area, a 27-28’ box is pushing the side wind area for newbie RV owner. 24-26’ is much better.
The younger your family, the more likely you will be to upgrade your travel trailer (TT).
Buy used for your first TT, plan on that likely upgrade. All TT have problems, let someone else get them fixed. Many upgrade their truck around the same time.

 

I don't know your vehicle's max tow capacity but let's say it's 11.3k for this. Some people suggest the "80% rule", but many others say that staying within the 60-70% of tow capacity range is going to be a more comfortable, safer tow.

60-70% of 11.3k is 6780-7910 for the loaded trailer. 80% would be 9040. The trailer you're considering is 8474 loaded.

But do keep in mind that from the vehicle's total payload, and total tow capacity, you must subtract the things the vehicle is carrying, too.

Start with 11.3 and subtract 600 pounds for you and your passengers. Subtract 110 pounds for the weight distribution hitch itself. Subtract 110 pounds for the generator, and maybe 150 for other assorted gear. That means you start out with not 11.3k capacity, but instead, 10.3k capacity. Now base your 60%, 70%, and 80% calculations off that number:

60%: 6180
70%: 7210
80%: 8240

Your sweet spot is going to be finding a trailer that, when loaded to its GVWR, comes in well under 8240, and preferably between 6180 and 7210. That will probably be travel trailers in the 22-27 foot range.

You will camp MORE often if the towing experience is good.

When I was in college I used to sell cameras in an electronics store. People would come in looking and wanting the best camera they could buy; lots of lens options, and so on. And for some people that was exactly what they needed. Dedicated photography enthusiasts definitely were well served by a big SLR with lots of lenses. But for the vast majority of the customers, the camera they would bring with them and use was the best option, not the biggest, most elaborate camera. A camera (in those days) that could fit easily into a day-hiking kit, and that could be used without a lot of configuration and fiddling was the one that would capture the moments they wanted to remember.

Same thing with RVs. If you buy an RV that is unpleasant to tow, it's not going to get as much use as a smaller RV that is easy to hook up, tow, back into a campsite, and use. A kid is going to be okay sleeping on a sofa converted to bed, for example. Smaller isn't necessarily bad. If the smaller trailer encourages more frequent use because it's easier to hook up, tow, and use, it's the right tool for the job.

 

Thank you for all the responses, the last three were extremely helpful!