With my 2013 f150 payload of 1500lbs 3.73elocker? Plan on 500lbs with people and dog and 200lbs of fuel everything else will be loaded in the camper with a good wdh just have to get a new one since the one from my old vehicle can't handle a true tt, so recommendations welcomed I see blue ox is popular. We camp at most 2-3hr drives through Michigan so we won't have water in the tt. So figure prob 800lbs of our "stuff" in the tt. Is this doable and safe since we love the tt. I know the 5L will pull it but I don't want to overload the truck it's got the 6.5" bed but a reg cover no cap.

https://www.funtownrv.com/product/ne...4dbh-794837-29

 

Nope, I had a 2010 Screw 4WD XLT 5.4/3.55 with 9700 lbs tow rating and 1430 lbs payload. I was looking at some Jayco with the same weights, and same truck cargo weights, and that weight camper would had severely overloaded my truck.

Even with the 2012 F150 Screw 4WD XLT 5.0L/3.73 with 9300 lbs tow rating and 1580 lbs payload, that trailer would had been to heavy to stay within my ratings but I load heavier, so you might be marginal or right at your limits. I'd say find a lighter trailer.

Now with the 2016 and it's exceptional payload, yes but not with the older generation F150s.

 

The 200 pounds of fuel should be counted against your payload already so you may just have the 500 pounds of people / dogs to go against your 1500 pound payload. That leaves 1000 for the hitch and tongue weight. Truth be told, any properly set up WDH will send at least the weight of the hitch itself back to the trailer axles. So you could get away with up to 1,000 pounds of tongue weight.

I see that the dry tongue weight of the trailer you want is listed at 705. So you have ~300 pounds for propane tanks and batteries. Twin 30 pound tanks will run about 120 pounds full. Two small batteries will be ~80 pounds for the pair. Leaving you with about 100 pounds of payload left. You'll have to carefully pack the trailer as not to increase tongue weight more than that remaining 100 pounds. You may need to travel with the tanks empty depending on where they are. If you end up a little over on your GVWR at the scales the truck spare can go in the trailer and you could remove the tailgate when you're towing to save additional weight. It might take some thought but it sounds like it's possible.

 

A WD hitch head, shank, and bars and sway control will weigh nearly 100 lbs.

 

True, but once you tighten the spring bars appropriately for a trailer with near 1,000 pounds of tongue weight you will send more than that back to the trailer axles. So with a proper set up, it doesn't need to be counted against payload or RAWR of the truck.

 

Figure on a loaded trailer weight of 7000lbs, you're looking at a tongue weight of 910lbs at 13% (safe range for WDH). Take that off your payload and that leaves your room for cargo/junk in the truck.

 

Would his one be more weight appropriate and odd that it weighs less but is 3' longer.

https://www.funtownrv.com/product/ne...bhxl-791755-29

 

What about this one it's lighter and 3' longer but same layout.

https://www.funtownrv.com/product/ne...bhxl-791755-29

https://www.funtownrvwaco.com/produc...inventory-link

 

Yes. That's more in the ballpark.

Do yourself a favor, top off the fuel tank in your truck, load up the family and dog and go get each axle of the truck weighed. Knowing those 2 weights, subtract them from your GVWR of your truck to give you your actual payload available to work with. If you have any accessories in or on your truck, those will dig into the payload as well. A rubber bed mat, tonneau cover, etc.

And, when you are shopping for a trailer, look for a yellow sticker in the doorjamb. This will list the factory weight of the actual trailer sans batteries and propane. Factor in about a 200 pound increase to the tongue once those are added and you will have some real weights to work with.

 

Or this one here

https://www.funtownrvwaco.com/produc...inventory-link