ED2011

I will be installing the Timbren Rear Suspension Enhancement System, and the Heavy Duty Bilstein 4600 Series Schocks.

guardrail22

Hope you have better luck with that flat roof than I did. Don't came in rainy weather.

Growinupmx

I know little about WDH but I'm learning, to me it looks like his hitch is not adjusted correctly. Look how much the bars are pointing downward on the end.

Shaggy1970

Your correct, the bars should be level with trailer frame to get good WD. Still though seems like there is way too much tongue weight on the rear from all that squat, Bags will help a lot.

tsigwing

do you need airbags with a properly adjust WDH? Isn't that the point of a WDH?

Shaggy1970

Even with a properly adjusted WD hitch the bulk of the trailer tongue weight is going to be carried by the rear axel of the tow vehicle. Its not going to be distributed 50/50. More like 20/80, the rear end will have squat and depending on the suspension of the tow vehicle it could be very pronounced. The bags will allow you to level the truck, it really won't do much in distributing the weight.

Watch this video, and it will explain what I am talking about.

Shaggy1970

In combination to the Equalizer hitch I use, I also use this from Geny hitch. https://genyhitch.com/the-hitch-stor...ibution-hitch/

It allows the trailer to be independent from the tow vehicle (and visa versa) so bumps and other factors that unsettle the tow vehicle or trailer which can cause other sway issues not planned for from developing.

acdii

Only thing airbags do is give you a false sense of security. If you have so much weight that you need airbags, your truck is overloaded.

See below

Those bars are totally wrong. Not only should they be parallel to the trailers frame, there should also be some curve to them. That would show that they are actually leveraging weight forward.

You can set the hitch up to have the bars parallel, but if the hitch head is not correct, there may not be enough tension on the springs to actually work properly. Adding helper springs/airbags to an improperly setup WDH will not eliminate sway, and will only make things worse.

Properly set up, there should be tension on the bars to the point that trying to attach them with all the weight on the hitch would be difficult, and with the tongue jack lifting both the trailer and hitch, there should be some effort to attach them.

The front fender well should return very close to its unladen height when properly setup. Since there is going to be a lot of weight on the rear, there will be significant drop to the rear wells and should not change much when hitched properly, but there should be some change upwards when bars are applied.

If you want the air bags to improve ride quality, by all means go for them, but to use them as a band aid is not what they are intended for, and can lead to an unsafe rig.

You can add helper springs, air bags, Load E tires, whatever, but they by no means increase your load carrying capacity, you are still limited by what the axle is rated at.

Shaggy1970

I agree somewhat with what your trying to convey, but I would like for people to do there own research on how manufactures go about and come up with the numbers they state. Usually the most limiting factor is what the numbers are based off, for example my Front and Rear Axel according to the sticker are rated at 4050, so that's 8100 but they yellow sticker in my door jam states 7350. When you dig in a little bit more in the number you see that the actual axels are rated at well over 5000 pounds, so if your using your logic I should be able to load my truck up to say 10000. Which is not realistic. When you do more research you see that the tires are rated at 2500 each but the wheels are rated at 2025 and thats they get the 4050 number. But it gets a little bit more complicated, the manufactures use a little bit of fairy dust to try to up-sell more truck. In my research the same exact truck in platinum skin with 20 inch rims rated at 2025 yields has 7700 GVWR instead of 7350 when it actually weighs a few pounds more with no logic offered in the difference between the numbers what so ever. So what am I getting at? Read, study, understand the numbers and tow with knowledge and confidence what of your actual trucks capability is. In my case I don't have a problem loading my truck up to 8000 or so without even blinking,, knowing that using even the manufactures numbers on the axels and wheels which already have a 20-25% safety margin built in I am good to 8100. To each there own but I don't like guys coming on here saying that the numbers in the door jam are the end all be all when it comes to towing, cause its not. YMMV

Oaf

I don't have any problems or ANY sway at all even at 75+ mph if the sway control is off. Turn it on, it sways. That's the mystery! Try the WDH that I have and I bet your sway will be gone.