How Do Safety Chains Stop The Trailer Nose From Crashing To The Gruond?
08-26-2020, 01:26 PM
#21
Unless I missed it...no one mentioned the correct and legal requirement of securing the safety chains.
The chains are (as required by law) to be criss crossed so that when your trailer does come detached, the tongue does not crash to the ground, rather is caught by the criss crossed safety chains.
Or at least thats the objective.
This is being enforced in some areas...
The chains are (as required by law) to be criss crossed so that when your trailer does come detached, the tongue does not crash to the ground, rather is caught by the criss crossed safety chains.
Or at least thats the objective.
This is being enforced in some areas...
08-26-2020, 01:27 PM
#22
Davel4wa
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Cathlamet, WA
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Safety Chains
QUOTE=Eff0neFitty;6686103]If the trailer gets dislodged, won't the crank-up post still slam into the ground and scrape the pavement until you stop? I'm not understanding how the safety chains crossed actually prevent that from happening.[/QUOTE]
When I was towing behind a motorhome the recommended connection for safety chains was to cross the chains beneath the tongue to help support the tongue in case of a hitch disconnect. As mentioned here, pay close attention to the chain length, too long and they will drag, too short and making tight turns could cause damage. Also remember that the trailer will be trying to slow down when disconnected and the chains will become taut which will help to support the tongue if chains are crossed. Slow down gradually to help in keeping tension on the chains and prevent the trailer from closing on your TV.
When I was towing behind a motorhome the recommended connection for safety chains was to cross the chains beneath the tongue to help support the tongue in case of a hitch disconnect. As mentioned here, pay close attention to the chain length, too long and they will drag, too short and making tight turns could cause damage. Also remember that the trailer will be trying to slow down when disconnected and the chains will become taut which will help to support the tongue if chains are crossed. Slow down gradually to help in keeping tension on the chains and prevent the trailer from closing on your TV.
08-26-2020, 04:37 PM
#23
08-27-2020, 04:24 PM
#24
Senior Member
So much wrong with that video...
Open end s-hooks. They are only less prone to coming off when reverse attached. Gosh Dammit, use a freaking latching hook, always.
Twisting the chains to shorten them... sure, if you want the chain to break.
That piece of metal designed to keep the tongue off the ground... not a good spot to attach chains. I've seen those get ripped off, and having the two chain so close together (literally a link apart) reduces the cradling, which drops the tongue closer to the ground and increases how much it can swing around on the chain.
Open end s-hooks. They are only less prone to coming off when reverse attached. Gosh Dammit, use a freaking latching hook, always.
Twisting the chains to shorten them... sure, if you want the chain to break.
That piece of metal designed to keep the tongue off the ground... not a good spot to attach chains. I've seen those get ripped off, and having the two chain so close together (literally a link apart) reduces the cradling, which drops the tongue closer to the ground and increases how much it can swing around on the chain.
08-27-2020, 04:44 PM
#25
On my cargo trailer, the jack extends lower than the tongue when cradled, and the chains are at the correct length. I had mine come off when it appeared to be properly latched. The handle was down and locked and lifting with the jack also raised the truck. I went over a bridge and clunk bang, trailer was off the ball, and the post was scraping the road. Here's the problem with mine, and was pointed out a few posts above. The chain securement points on the trailer are at least a foot behind the socket, so when it comes off, the trailer drops down on the jack because the overall length of chain is longer then the points required to cradle the socket. The trailer wound up sliding under the truck and the ball struck the front of it leaving a reminder.
The reason it came off is because the latch actually bound up between the ball and back of socket when the trailer was dropped on the ball, so the latch went all the way down to the locked position, and was tight against the ball so it lifted the truck, but the moment I turned out of the driveway, it must have unbound and popped the socket loose. I now take a flashlight and visually check that the latch went under the ball and not against it. The latch on mine rises when you lift the locking handle, all the other trailers I have move the latch rearwards so it cannot ride up the ball. Wasn't aware of that at the time. Lesson learned, have the dent to remind me every time I hitch it up. I would have to grind off the hooks and put new ones on to shorten the chains so they can actually cradle the tongue. They did the job, but the jack had to be replaced afterwards.
Oh, one other observation, the Max Tow receiver hook brackets don't allow clip on hooks to work. I need bigger hooks to get them to latch for three of my trailers, the Travel Trailer was the only one with large enough hooks that would fully latch and they were a bugger to get on and off they barely cleared.
The reason it came off is because the latch actually bound up between the ball and back of socket when the trailer was dropped on the ball, so the latch went all the way down to the locked position, and was tight against the ball so it lifted the truck, but the moment I turned out of the driveway, it must have unbound and popped the socket loose. I now take a flashlight and visually check that the latch went under the ball and not against it. The latch on mine rises when you lift the locking handle, all the other trailers I have move the latch rearwards so it cannot ride up the ball. Wasn't aware of that at the time. Lesson learned, have the dent to remind me every time I hitch it up. I would have to grind off the hooks and put new ones on to shorten the chains so they can actually cradle the tongue. They did the job, but the jack had to be replaced afterwards.
Oh, one other observation, the Max Tow receiver hook brackets don't allow clip on hooks to work. I need bigger hooks to get them to latch for three of my trailers, the Travel Trailer was the only one with large enough hooks that would fully latch and they were a bugger to get on and off they barely cleared.
Last edited by acdii; 08-27-2020 at 04:47 PM.
08-31-2020, 05:00 PM
#26
Senior Member
I'd have the chain loops on the trailer moved. Less of a pain and much cheaper than replacing jacks and repairing dents.
The non-max tow loops aren't much better, still a pain to get clips on. A set of large quick links left on the truck stopped my hookup griping. ****ing clevis hooks, though, have to take the quick links off for the big trailer.
The non-max tow loops aren't much better, still a pain to get clips on. A set of large quick links left on the truck stopped my hookup griping. ****ing clevis hooks, though, have to take the quick links off for the big trailer.
08-31-2020, 08:20 PM
#28
I once dropped that trailer on the freeway. That was a pucker factor moment. Trailer had surge brakes. We used pentle / lunette eye hitches. Your's truly was a dipsh*t and left it open. Trailer towed like garbage when it was pefectly level. It had a hydraulic system on it with a half-spring suspension and stub axles. Low enough tow vehicle and the trailer could sit flat on the ground. So we always towed with it a little hitch high. Anyways I go like 20-30 miles to go pick up a scissor lift. Get it loaded and chained up (one chain in front, one in rear) with the snap over binders. I'm a believe is secure loading...especially after this. Jump back on the freeway and hit the seam over an asphalt overlay over the concrete roadway. Thump. BANG! WTF! Look in mirror and see trailer all over. Hit the brakes (NEVER do that!). Trailer slams into the back of the truck ('94 F-450 8' flatbed). BANG! Look in mirror. See trailer on driver side tires. :O Seriously the scrub marks were nearly to the wheel on the sidewall. That truck got tossed around and it was no lightweight. Trailer was probably rolling at 6000lb. Got it pulled over. Tow truck comes out cause I don't know hot to get it back on the truck. It had a swinging jack that was too tall at this point to swing down. But the tongue wasn't on the ground. I think he had a floor jack. Cord is yanked out of the plug which is still in the receptacle (old style 6 or 7 pin round). Towed it back to the office without lights. Front of that trailer was forever bent up. No matter how much it was beat on it was never straight. Surge brakes had come on (shorter than safety chains) and it submarined unver the truck and the got switched back off. Boss just told me, "Bet you'll never do that again." Damn straight. Scissor lift stayed attached but at some point was air born in the trailer as it was now sitting on top of a side cover.
And the hydraulics never stopped leaking after that. No matter what they did with the seals. Manufacturer was never told about my adventures. They just claimed all the trailers did that. Welllll oookkk.
08-31-2020, 08:26 PM
#29
Oh, one other observation, the Max Tow receiver hook brackets don't allow clip on hooks to work. I need bigger hooks to get them to latch for three of my trailers, the Travel Trailer was the only one with large enough hooks that would fully latch and they were a bugger to get on and off they barely cleared.
09-01-2020, 09:30 AM
#30
Senior Member
That will get you put out of service on a commercial vehicle. Had a coworker have that happen. I think the chains were long enough to reach the rear axle of the tow vehicle. If you ever want to know if you have a problem, hit the scales/inspection station at Palm Springs, CA.
I once dropped that trailer on the freeway. That was a pucker factor moment. Trailer had surge brakes. We used pentle / lunette eye hitches. Your's truly was a dipsh*t and left it open. Trailer towed like garbage when it was pefectly level. It had a hydraulic system on it with a half-spring suspension and stub axles. Low enough tow vehicle and the trailer could sit flat on the ground. So we always towed with it a little hitch high. Anyways I go like 20-30 miles to go pick up a scissor lift. Get it loaded and chained up (one chain in front, one in rear) with the snap over binders. I'm a believe is secure loading...especially after this. Jump back on the freeway and hit the seam over an asphalt overlay over the concrete roadway. Thump. BANG! WTF! Look in mirror and see trailer all over. Hit the brakes (NEVER do that!). Trailer slams into the back of the truck ('94 F-450 8' flatbed). BANG! Look in mirror. See trailer on driver side tires. :O Seriously the scrub marks were nearly to the wheel on the sidewall. That truck got tossed around and it was no lightweight. Trailer was probably rolling at 6000lb. Got it pulled over. Tow truck comes out cause I don't know hot to get it back on the truck. It had a swinging jack that was too tall at this point to swing down. But the tongue wasn't on the ground. I think he had a floor jack. Cord is yanked out of the plug which is still in the receptacle (old style 6 or 7 pin round). Towed it back to the office without lights. Front of that trailer was forever bent up. No matter how much it was beat on it was never straight. Surge brakes had come on (shorter than safety chains) and it submarined unver the truck and the got switched back off. Boss just told me, "Bet you'll never do that again." Damn straight. Scissor lift stayed attached but at some point was air born in the trailer as it was now sitting on top of a side cover.
And the hydraulics never stopped leaking after that. No matter what they did with the seals. Manufacturer was never told about my adventures. They just claimed all the trailers did that. Welllll oookkk.
I once dropped that trailer on the freeway. That was a pucker factor moment. Trailer had surge brakes. We used pentle / lunette eye hitches. Your's truly was a dipsh*t and left it open. Trailer towed like garbage when it was pefectly level. It had a hydraulic system on it with a half-spring suspension and stub axles. Low enough tow vehicle and the trailer could sit flat on the ground. So we always towed with it a little hitch high. Anyways I go like 20-30 miles to go pick up a scissor lift. Get it loaded and chained up (one chain in front, one in rear) with the snap over binders. I'm a believe is secure loading...especially after this. Jump back on the freeway and hit the seam over an asphalt overlay over the concrete roadway. Thump. BANG! WTF! Look in mirror and see trailer all over. Hit the brakes (NEVER do that!). Trailer slams into the back of the truck ('94 F-450 8' flatbed). BANG! Look in mirror. See trailer on driver side tires. :O Seriously the scrub marks were nearly to the wheel on the sidewall. That truck got tossed around and it was no lightweight. Trailer was probably rolling at 6000lb. Got it pulled over. Tow truck comes out cause I don't know hot to get it back on the truck. It had a swinging jack that was too tall at this point to swing down. But the tongue wasn't on the ground. I think he had a floor jack. Cord is yanked out of the plug which is still in the receptacle (old style 6 or 7 pin round). Towed it back to the office without lights. Front of that trailer was forever bent up. No matter how much it was beat on it was never straight. Surge brakes had come on (shorter than safety chains) and it submarined unver the truck and the got switched back off. Boss just told me, "Bet you'll never do that again." Damn straight. Scissor lift stayed attached but at some point was air born in the trailer as it was now sitting on top of a side cover.
And the hydraulics never stopped leaking after that. No matter what they did with the seals. Manufacturer was never told about my adventures. They just claimed all the trailers did that. Welllll oookkk.
