Figuring out hitch weight.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 331
Likes: 4
From: Lansing, MI
Figuring out hitch weight.
Ok ok as I hide behind some cover before the "check the search function" insults are hurled I just want help making sure I'm going about this correctly. Tomm we're going to an rv show, I posted some links to campers we were looking at that will be there I just want to make sure I have all my numbers right in case he deal is to good to pass up.
https://www.funtownrv.com/product/ne...4dbh-794837-29
https://www.funtownrvwaco.com/produc...inventory-link
https://www.funtownrv.com/product/ne...bhxl-791755-29
https://www.funtownrv.com/product/ne...3dbh-794713-29
My truck is a 2013 5L xlt. 7350 gvwr, 1500lb payload, 3.73 e locker. Well have in the truck 1/2 tank gas so 160lbs fuel, 450lbs people and dog and prob 800-1000lbs in the Camper, no water and 1 full propane tank. Plan on buying blue ox hitch with 1000lb bars and anti sway. My sticker is missing on my truck hitch so Idk the max hitch weight. I figure if I add this all up so say it's 6800lbs loaded in the camper divide by .13 that's 884lbs on the hitch plus what's in the truck that puts me right at 1500lbs. Will the wdh give me anymore leg room weight wise in the truck so I don't overload it, that's all I'm worried about. I know the truck will pull it loaded no problem. Thanks for any help and advice.
https://www.funtownrv.com/product/ne...4dbh-794837-29
https://www.funtownrvwaco.com/produc...inventory-link
https://www.funtownrv.com/product/ne...bhxl-791755-29
https://www.funtownrv.com/product/ne...3dbh-794713-29
My truck is a 2013 5L xlt. 7350 gvwr, 1500lb payload, 3.73 e locker. Well have in the truck 1/2 tank gas so 160lbs fuel, 450lbs people and dog and prob 800-1000lbs in the Camper, no water and 1 full propane tank. Plan on buying blue ox hitch with 1000lb bars and anti sway. My sticker is missing on my truck hitch so Idk the max hitch weight. I figure if I add this all up so say it's 6800lbs loaded in the camper divide by .13 that's 884lbs on the hitch plus what's in the truck that puts me right at 1500lbs. Will the wdh give me anymore leg room weight wise in the truck so I don't overload it, that's all I'm worried about. I know the truck will pull it loaded no problem. Thanks for any help and advice.
Last edited by Olotti76; Jan 19, 2018 at 10:17 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 482
Likes: 130
From: Marietta, GA
It seems unusual to stop for fuel and only purchase a half tank of fuel. That'll make for frequent stops at 8-10 mpg.
I would suggest that before purchasing the camper, load up the truck with occupants and cargo and the weight distribution hitch as it would be for towing, fill the fuel tank and weigh it. That'll tell how much payload is remaining. That'll be important since the plan is to load the truck to its limit. That works better than guessing at it. It only costs $11.
I also have a '13 F150 without Max Tow or HDPP. The hitch receiver limit is 1050. That includes the tongue weight and the weight of the weight distribution hitch.
I can only offer the case of my truck and trailer as weighed. I adjusted the WDH so that 89% of the weight lifted from the steer axle was returned. In doing so it transferred 160 lbs., or 20.5% of the tongue weight, to the trailer axles. So 780 lbs. tongue weight plus 80 lbs. of weight distribution hitch, 860 lbs. total, resulted in 700 lbs. net added to the truck axles.
My toy hauler allowed the flexibility to rearrange cargo to get the tongue weight down from 900 (12.4% of trailer wt.) on the first weigh to a subsequent 780 (10.8% of trailer wt.). A tongue weight scale facilitated that so I could check the weight in my driveway while I was loading the trailer. My truck ended up loaded up to 80% of payload, 95% of GVWR, 92% of rear GAWR, 94% of front GAWR, 74% of "tow rating", 88% of GCWR.
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I would suggest that before purchasing the camper, load up the truck with occupants and cargo and the weight distribution hitch as it would be for towing, fill the fuel tank and weigh it. That'll tell how much payload is remaining. That'll be important since the plan is to load the truck to its limit. That works better than guessing at it. It only costs $11.
I also have a '13 F150 without Max Tow or HDPP. The hitch receiver limit is 1050. That includes the tongue weight and the weight of the weight distribution hitch.
I can only offer the case of my truck and trailer as weighed. I adjusted the WDH so that 89% of the weight lifted from the steer axle was returned. In doing so it transferred 160 lbs., or 20.5% of the tongue weight, to the trailer axles. So 780 lbs. tongue weight plus 80 lbs. of weight distribution hitch, 860 lbs. total, resulted in 700 lbs. net added to the truck axles.
My toy hauler allowed the flexibility to rearrange cargo to get the tongue weight down from 900 (12.4% of trailer wt.) on the first weigh to a subsequent 780 (10.8% of trailer wt.). A tongue weight scale facilitated that so I could check the weight in my driveway while I was loading the trailer. My truck ended up loaded up to 80% of payload, 95% of GVWR, 92% of rear GAWR, 94% of front GAWR, 74% of "tow rating", 88% of GCWR.
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Last edited by atwowheelguy; Jan 20, 2018 at 01:30 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 901
Likes: 259
From: PA
The explanation above is very good and nothing to add on weight transfer. A few other things you can consider that might allow to you run with a full tank of gas.
If you have nothing in the bed, there is no reason to carry your tailgate. Take it off.
What size propane tank? If not using it for heat, a 20lb propane tank lasts a very long time and will save 20 pounds over a 30 lb tank.
What are your electric needs? if only going to pug in sites you may be able to go with a lighter battery.
Definitely weight you truck and the tongue of the trailer before purchase. Do not rely on specs.
If you have nothing in the bed, there is no reason to carry your tailgate. Take it off.
What size propane tank? If not using it for heat, a 20lb propane tank lasts a very long time and will save 20 pounds over a 30 lb tank.
What are your electric needs? if only going to pug in sites you may be able to go with a lighter battery.
Definitely weight you truck and the tongue of the trailer before purchase. Do not rely on specs.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 331
Likes: 4
From: Lansing, MI
It seems unusual to stop for fuel and only purchase a half tank of fuel. That'll make for frequent stops at 8-10 mpg.
I would suggest that before purchasing the camper, load up the truck with occupants and cargo and the weight distribution hitch as it would be for towing, fill the fuel tank and weigh it. That'll tell how much payload is remaining. That'll be important since the plan is to load the truck to its limit. That works better than guessing at it. It only costs $11.
I also have a '13 F150 without Max Tow or HDPP. The hitch receiver limit is 1050. That includes the tongue weight and the weight of the weight distribution hitch.
I can only offer the case of my truck and trailer as weighed. I adjusted the WDH so that 89% of the weight lifted from the steer axle was returned. In doing so it transferred 160 lbs., or 20.5% of the tongue weight, to the trailer axles. So 780 lbs. tongue weight plus 80 lbs. of weight distribution hitch, 860 lbs. total, resulted in 700 lbs. net added to the truck axles.
My toy hauler allowed the flexibility to rearrange cargo to get the tongue weight down from 900 (12.4% of trailer wt.) on the first weigh to a subsequent 780 (10.8% of trailer wt.). A tongue weight scale facilitated that so I could check the weight in my driveway while I was loading the trailer. My truck ended up loaded up to 80% of payload, 95% of GVWR, 92% of rear GAWR, 94% of front GAWR, 74% of "tow rating", 88% of GCWR.
.
.
I would suggest that before purchasing the camper, load up the truck with occupants and cargo and the weight distribution hitch as it would be for towing, fill the fuel tank and weigh it. That'll tell how much payload is remaining. That'll be important since the plan is to load the truck to its limit. That works better than guessing at it. It only costs $11.
I also have a '13 F150 without Max Tow or HDPP. The hitch receiver limit is 1050. That includes the tongue weight and the weight of the weight distribution hitch.
I can only offer the case of my truck and trailer as weighed. I adjusted the WDH so that 89% of the weight lifted from the steer axle was returned. In doing so it transferred 160 lbs., or 20.5% of the tongue weight, to the trailer axles. So 780 lbs. tongue weight plus 80 lbs. of weight distribution hitch, 860 lbs. total, resulted in 700 lbs. net added to the truck axles.
My toy hauler allowed the flexibility to rearrange cargo to get the tongue weight down from 900 (12.4% of trailer wt.) on the first weigh to a subsequent 780 (10.8% of trailer wt.). A tongue weight scale facilitated that so I could check the weight in my driveway while I was loading the trailer. My truck ended up loaded up to 80% of payload, 95% of GVWR, 92% of rear GAWR, 94% of front GAWR, 74% of "tow rating", 88% of GCWR.
.
.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 901
Likes: 259
From: PA
So what I'm gathering here is that it's doable especially since the wdh will shift some weight off the truck back to the camper and if I pack more stuff towards the rear of he camper that'll lessen the hitch weight too. Each of these campers has at least 1700lbs+ cargo load and even with a wdh shifting some weight back I don't foresee hitting that limit as we travel pretty light, again no water in any tanks and prob only one propane tank filled. I'll see how the 1/2 tank gas goes but figured it'd be an easy way to save weight but I see she loves gas and that's just city driving so yeah I may end up filling her up to save multiple stops.
A word of caution, and yes, this is worth yelling - DO NOT HEAVILY LOAD THE BACK OF A TRAVEL TRAILER! If you want to minimize tongue weight, load your stuff around the axles and don't add a bunch of stuff on the tongue. Weight on the tail of the vehicle will exasperate any sway issues you might have. This is a very real issue.
It is a dangerous balancing act that 1/2 ton truck owners are doing when getting close to max GVWRs and GAWRs by shifting weight back. Please understand that every effort you make to reduce tongue weight reduces the inherent stability of the trailer. The link below is of a Ford Super Duty towing a travel trailer that really isn't all that big. Certainly smaller than many towed by 1/2 ton trucks. But notice that he has a rear bumper rack filled with stuff. The sway starts out innocently enough, but because of the mass on the bumper, it doesn't self correct. The oscillations get bigger and bigger until he crashes it. That rack of stuff on the back cost him the whole trailer. Loading inside the back of the travel trailer can have the same effect. I've rather you remove your tailgate to stay within weight limits than shift stuff to the back of the camper. You could also remove the truck spare and put it in the camper front storage. This would increase tongue weight by less than the weight of the tire. So you gain capacity on the truck and make the trailer more stable at the same time.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 331
Likes: 4
From: Lansing, MI
I don't know where you plan to travel but a 1/2 tank of fuel isn't an option if crossing the U.S. There are places with 120 miles between service stations. If you have a head wind, you could be down to 7 mpg. Not fun watching your fuel gauge on "E" wondering if you'll make the next service station - even less fun if you don't.
A word of caution, and yes, this is worth yelling - DO NOT HEAVILY LOAD THE BACK OF A TRAVEL TRAILER! If you want to minimize tongue weight, load your stuff around the axles and don't add a bunch of stuff on the tongue. Weight on the tail of the vehicle will exasperate any sway issues you might have. This is a very real issue.
It is a dangerous balancing act that 1/2 ton truck owners are doing when getting close to max GVWRs and GAWRs by shifting weight back. Please understand that every effort you make to reduce tongue weight reduces the inherent stability of the trailer. The link below is of a Ford Super Duty towing a travel trailer that really isn't all that big. Certainly smaller than many towed by 1/2 ton trucks. But notice that he has a rear bumper rack filled with stuff. The sway starts out innocently enough, but because of the mass on the bumper, it doesn't self correct. The oscillations get bigger and bigger until he crashes it. That rack of stuff on the back cost him the whole trailer. Loading inside the back of the travel trailer can have the same effect. I've rather you remove your tailgate to stay within weight limits than shift stuff to the back of the camper. You could also remove the truck spare and put it in the camper front storage. This would increase tongue weight by less than the weight of the tire. So you gain capacity on the truck and make the trailer more stable at the same time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INyiMA3hfto
A word of caution, and yes, this is worth yelling - DO NOT HEAVILY LOAD THE BACK OF A TRAVEL TRAILER! If you want to minimize tongue weight, load your stuff around the axles and don't add a bunch of stuff on the tongue. Weight on the tail of the vehicle will exasperate any sway issues you might have. This is a very real issue.
It is a dangerous balancing act that 1/2 ton truck owners are doing when getting close to max GVWRs and GAWRs by shifting weight back. Please understand that every effort you make to reduce tongue weight reduces the inherent stability of the trailer. The link below is of a Ford Super Duty towing a travel trailer that really isn't all that big. Certainly smaller than many towed by 1/2 ton trucks. But notice that he has a rear bumper rack filled with stuff. The sway starts out innocently enough, but because of the mass on the bumper, it doesn't self correct. The oscillations get bigger and bigger until he crashes it. That rack of stuff on the back cost him the whole trailer. Loading inside the back of the travel trailer can have the same effect. I've rather you remove your tailgate to stay within weight limits than shift stuff to the back of the camper. You could also remove the truck spare and put it in the camper front storage. This would increase tongue weight by less than the weight of the tire. So you gain capacity on the truck and make the trailer more stable at the same time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INyiMA3hfto
On a side note wouldn't a wdh take a couple hundred lbs off the truck and move it to the camper.
So I think we've decided on a Cherokee grey wolf 26dbh its dry weight is 5757lbs according to the dealer website I think this should be doable with my truck and I plan on getting the blue ox wdh with 1000lb bars.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 901
Likes: 259
From: PA
Olloti76 - Yes, the WDH will take weight off the truck. How much depends on how you set it up. But 150 to 200 pounds would be a reasonable expectation if you go for near 100% front axle return.
Your Payload is 1,500 and you have 450 pounds of people and dogs. Leaving 1,050 for everything else. One 30 pound LB tank and one large battery will add 120 pounds to the tongue + ~100 for the hitch puts you at 925 hitch weight. You have 125 pounds to play with before weight distribution. If you gain back 150 pounds you have 275 pounds that you can put in the bed. The rest of the stuff you should pack in the trailer over top of the axles so that you don't increase the swing momentum.
On paper it sounds like it should work. But as previously stated, you don't know anything for sure until you go to a CAT scale and see what the real weights are. Will the RV dealer let you hook up and tow to a scale before you buy?
Your Payload is 1,500 and you have 450 pounds of people and dogs. Leaving 1,050 for everything else. One 30 pound LB tank and one large battery will add 120 pounds to the tongue + ~100 for the hitch puts you at 925 hitch weight. You have 125 pounds to play with before weight distribution. If you gain back 150 pounds you have 275 pounds that you can put in the bed. The rest of the stuff you should pack in the trailer over top of the axles so that you don't increase the swing momentum.
On paper it sounds like it should work. But as previously stated, you don't know anything for sure until you go to a CAT scale and see what the real weights are. Will the RV dealer let you hook up and tow to a scale before you buy?