Anyone have any tips for setting up the equalizer 4 point 1k/10k WDH for the first time? I'm picking up my new trailer on Friday and bought my own hitch to save on the extra cost from the dealer. I've already read the manual and watched a few YouTube videos but was wondering if anyone had any specific tips for the number of washers needed or shank up/down or any issues you ran into. I'll be towing a Jayco 264BH back home to Delaware from the Middlebury, IN area and will not have a lot of added weight in either the truck or the camper aside from my tools. I plan on getting it completely dialed in sometime in the spring once the weather is more favorable and the camper is loaded for travel.

Tow vehicle is my new 2020 3.5 Supercrew.

 

Honestly. If you've studied the manual and watched a couple of the set up videos, you're ahead of probably 90% of WDH owners.

To get it home, I would go by the front fender measurements that they show you how to do in the videos. That will get you in the right ballpark. Once home and have the trailer loaded, remeasure your fender heights. Then, once you think its about where you like it, visit a CAT scale for a weigh in.

But, it is truly good that you've studied how to set it up prior to picking up your trailer. Let us know how it goes.

 

Only issue I had was Camping World sold me a hitch ball with a 2-3/4" long shank. That's too long for an Equalizer 4pt. Needs to be maximum of 2-3/8" so the spring arms can pivot under it. Easy fix with a band saw to shorten it. Otherwise what Clarkbre said above covers it.

 

I bought the one with the ball preinstalled just to avoid that issue. Also didn’t want to try to source a 430ft lbs torque wrench.

 

If you read the manual and watched the videos, you are on the right path. Take a 4' long level and tape measure to check trailer level, and how you load, and you will be good. For years, I just guessed, the last trailer/hitch I bought, I followed the instructions and wow, what a difference.

 

Make sure you check the bolts for the pivot sockets for proper tightening. From the factory they come very tight 100ft/lbs plus it seems. Before use I would loosen them and retighten to the recommended 65 ft/lbs I believe? They will wear and break in so check the torque on them before each use with no tension on the bars.

 

Yeah I noticed that they were super tight but didn't touch the torque.

Picked up my trailer yesterday morning and did about 50% of the install. A tech at the dealership ended up jumping in since I think he needed the bay space lol. I think it was setup pretty well for the drive home but I'll need to adjust it once the camper is loaded. Only put my tools and our overnight bag in there so it was basically empty. Very happy with how the hitch performed on the drive home from Indiana to Delaware. Kept the speed between 70 in the flats in Ohio and 60 in the mountains in PA with no sway or white knuckles aside from weather concerns last night.

 

Congrats on new trailer. Happy it towed well. Ya, you'll mess with it a bit, but I vary crazy on my tongue weight, often in state camping, I'll leave with 200# of firewood in front of trailer in totes. I have mine set-up empty (or with the normal gear in the rear of trailer), trailer perfectly level, truck a bit tight on front end. That way as I load weight in front of trailer or rear of truck, it seems to dial in a bit better. I generally always dump out my tanks before going home, they are rear of my trailer axles and I do not want that weight, less the firewood, I think that would be a recipe for sway.

 

I carry one with me all the time

I happen to weigh 215- so I just stand on the end of a 2ft long wrench. Easy....

 

Congrats on the trailer. Check your trailer tires for their speed rating, many factory tires are only rated for 65MPH max. I upgraded to Carlisle Radial HD which have an 87MPH speed rating.