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Got my new travel trailer yesterday and also a new equalizer e4 wdh. Truck pulled the trailer well, but the dealership set up the hitch and upon getting home, it seems the back is squatting a bit more than it should. I know there are washers and the brackets on the trailer itself to adjust, but which direction do I need to go?
Should I start with more washers or less?
Should I raise the spring bar mounts?
Btw, the camper is a Forrest river heritage glen 24 bh with 510lb dry hitch weight.
I too received a wdh from the rv dealer and they set it up also. I knew it was not right so I reworked it myself and it did change a lot. You may want to do the same thing. Ultimately you are the one responsible for the safety of you and others on the road. Here is a link that will help you rework the hitch yourself. http://www.equalizerhitch.com/Equal-...structions.php
I too received a wdh from the rv dealer and they set it up also. I knew it was not right so I reworked it myself and it did change a lot. You may want to do the same thing. Ultimately you are the one responsible for the safety of you and others on the road. Here is a link that will help you rework the hitch yourself. http://www.equalizerhitch.com/Equal-...structions.php
Thanks for that, I'm going out to try and sort it out
Yes, follow the Equal-I-Zer instructions. Ford also has similar instructions.
It's not how much the rear end squats that is important.
Rather how much the front end is lifted, and how the WDH can reduce that lift. Concentrate on that.
Got my new travel trailer yesterday and also a new equalizer e4 wdh. Truck pulled the trailer well, but the dealership set up the hitch and upon getting home, it seems the back is squatting a bit more than it should. I know there are washers and the brackets on the trailer itself to adjust, but which direction do I need to go?
Should I start with more washers or less?
Should I raise the spring bar mounts?
Btw, the camper is a Forrest river heritage glen 24 bh with 510lb dry hitch weight.
I try to "load up" the WDH until the front end sits back at the measured resting height before the tongue weight was added. I start with raising the bracket height on the tongue. If needed, then use the washers to tilt the head for "fine tuning'". More washers tilt the head back and increase the weight transferred to the front axle, therefore raising the rear. My truck sits pretty much level with my trailer in tow.
Last edited by redneck wrencher; Mar 17, 2016 at 11:32 PM.
It seems my eye was a little off. After measuring the sag, my rear End sit just a tad higher than the front, and both front and rear drooped around the same with the bar on. This was with 5 washers. I did find that the dealership only spaced my spring brackets back 27 inches vs the recommended 32 so I moved those rearward.
The truck owner's manual tells how much to adjust the WDH bars. Ford says to measure the front fender height before and after hitching up the trailer. Adjust the WDH bring the front fender back down half way.
With 95 percent of trucks I can get my achieved height of within 1/2" difference between front and rear wheel arches measured at axel center. floor level of trailer within 1/2" from front to back. preferably with front being 1/2" lower then the back
Only real trouble makers I have are lifted trucks and ist gen dodge coil springs.
In 30 plus years working on RV's, I have seen some terrifying setups by suppose to be professionals at other dealerships, Had one lady pull in and her back wheels were spinning, they had so much tension that they were lifting the back wheels of the truck off the ground trying to achieve unloaded ride height.