Ecoboost pulling a 5er?
09-08-2013, 12:43 AM
#31
I bought it right off of the show room floor, actual lift, not levelling kit. The salesman at the store said that these 5th wheels are getting lighter and lighter to accommodate for 1/2 tons. Not sure if that's true or not but a few guys on here have the cougar with helium technology and say they've got no issues....
Remember folks, the pin weights quoted are DRY. So while that 1300-1400# pin weight may be within spec for certain configurations of your truck, as soon as you start adding weight to the trailer and even put yourself and passengers in the truck, you're going to weigh too much.
Power and brakes aren't an issue with the lightweight 5th wheels and half ton trucks, it is the frame and suspension. So while some may say it pulls well and not to worry about the weight, that's because those guys have only had the rig for 6 months to a year and the constant overload has yet to take its toll. Not to mention when you get into an emergency situation and you are past the limits of what those springs, shocks and tires are meant to take.
09-08-2013, 09:25 AM
#32
ColdWar Vet-USN Shellback
I got the same BS from salesmen trying to sell me a trailer too. In short, they don't care if you can tow it safely, after it is off the lot it is none of their concern.
Remember folks, the pin weights quoted are DRY. So while that 1300-1400# pin weight may be within spec for certain configurations of your truck, as soon as you start adding weight to the trailer and even put yourself and passengers in the truck, you're going to weigh too much.
Power and brakes aren't an issue with the lightweight 5th wheels and half ton trucks, it is the frame and suspension. So while some may say it pulls well and not to worry about the weight, that's because those guys have only had the rig for 6 months to a year and the constant overload has yet to take its toll. Not to mention when you get into an emergency situation and you are past the limits of what those springs, shocks and tires are meant to take.
Remember folks, the pin weights quoted are DRY. So while that 1300-1400# pin weight may be within spec for certain configurations of your truck, as soon as you start adding weight to the trailer and even put yourself and passengers in the truck, you're going to weigh too much.
Power and brakes aren't an issue with the lightweight 5th wheels and half ton trucks, it is the frame and suspension. So while some may say it pulls well and not to worry about the weight, that's because those guys have only had the rig for 6 months to a year and the constant overload has yet to take its toll. Not to mention when you get into an emergency situation and you are past the limits of what those springs, shocks and tires are meant to take.
09-08-2013, 09:48 AM
#33
Senior Member/Vietnam Vet
More like 1650 loaded for mine and for the SuperGlide, another 300 or so pounds. What you are allowed is 4050 on the rear axle with Max Tow and 4800 with HD payload.
I got the Reese 16K hitch (90 lbs) and Reese Sidewinder pin and am still 500 lbs over.
I got the Reese 16K hitch (90 lbs) and Reese Sidewinder pin and am still 500 lbs over.
09-09-2013, 04:33 PM
#34
Senior Member
Can't be done... The weight police (especially those on rv.net) say so...
Kidding aside, this is a loaded question; pardon the pun. It definitely CAN be done and it definitely CAN be done within ratings. In addition it also CAN be done with a 100% stock truck. My 5'r/truck combo have been scaled and all ratings are intact. I am most definitely at the ragged edge of those ratings, but I had been with my 08 and travel trailer as well; actually I was over ratings with that combo.
The key is to build the truck for what you want to use it for. HD Payload + Max Tow won't likely be hanging about on dealers lots. They will almost always be special order and it seems many people don't have the patience or perhaps it's pressure applied by sales snakes that causes buyers to end up with the WRONG truck for heavy hauling like this. Initially my dealer tried the same ole B/S in terms of saying 'what we have already will be more than what you need'. I made it 100% clear, I was going to define the build and it was going to be an order also. If they didn't want to deal with it, I'd move on to the next dealer.
Carefully run your numbers and buy the appropriately sized 5'r to go with the right build and you'll be happy as a claim (as I am...).
Happy towing!
Kidding aside, this is a loaded question; pardon the pun. It definitely CAN be done and it definitely CAN be done within ratings. In addition it also CAN be done with a 100% stock truck. My 5'r/truck combo have been scaled and all ratings are intact. I am most definitely at the ragged edge of those ratings, but I had been with my 08 and travel trailer as well; actually I was over ratings with that combo.
The key is to build the truck for what you want to use it for. HD Payload + Max Tow won't likely be hanging about on dealers lots. They will almost always be special order and it seems many people don't have the patience or perhaps it's pressure applied by sales snakes that causes buyers to end up with the WRONG truck for heavy hauling like this. Initially my dealer tried the same ole B/S in terms of saying 'what we have already will be more than what you need'. I made it 100% clear, I was going to define the build and it was going to be an order also. If they didn't want to deal with it, I'd move on to the next dealer.
Carefully run your numbers and buy the appropriately sized 5'r to go with the right build and you'll be happy as a claim (as I am...).
Happy towing!
12-25-2013, 01:43 PM
#35
5th wheel
I'm not stupid... just ignorant to towing. most hitch trailers I see squat down the truck quite a bit before they engage the WD, but the weight is still there. how is the tongue weight way out on leverage bumper hitch better than in the bed? I've looked through a ton of post of people on here that say they wouldn't even pull a small 5th wheel, but they would hook on a huge bumper pull max weight?! I'm pretty sure that bumper trailer that weighs twice a small 5th wheel is going to shove the crap out of you trying to stop quickly. if someone can explain the difference I would greatly appreciate it cause I just don't know.
12-25-2013, 05:28 PM
#36
I'm not stupid... just ignorant to towing. most hitch trailers I see squat down the truck quite a bit before they engage the WD, but the weight is still there. how is the tongue weight way out on leverage bumper hitch better than in the bed? I've looked through a ton of post of people on here that say they wouldn't even pull a small 5th wheel, but they would hook on a huge bumper pull max weight?! I'm pretty sure that bumper trailer that weighs twice a small 5th wheel is going to shove the crap out of you trying to stop quickly. if someone can explain the difference I would greatly appreciate it cause I just don't know.
Last edited by packplantpath; 12-25-2013 at 05:31 PM.
12-25-2013, 07:37 PM
#37
Speaking of heavy trailer loads, the worst trailer haul I ever did was a one way trip of 110 miles some years ago. I bought a 40' camping trailer that I needed to take to my property. I didn't have a WD hitch so I just put it on my Excursion's normal hitch and made the trip very early on a Sunday morning on the flattest route possible and kept the speed to 50 mph or below. Long story short, I made it OK but it wasn't the smartest thing I ever done. The trailer is in a permanent location.
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12-26-2013, 07:14 AM
#38
Senior Member/Vietnam Vet
I think a reasonably sized fiver on an F150 is safer towing than a large, within specs travel trailer because the fiver becomes part of the truck.
The folks pushing the Pullrite SuperGlide as an F150 short bed solution need to understand that it weights 300-350 lbs and that cuts seriously into the payload. A 90 lb Reese 16K and a Reese Revolution/Sidewinder pin box make a lot more sense.
In sizing a fiver, try to stay below 1400 lbs of dry pin weight because loading the fiver adds 250 lbs or more to it.
The folks pushing the Pullrite SuperGlide as an F150 short bed solution need to understand that it weights 300-350 lbs and that cuts seriously into the payload. A 90 lb Reese 16K and a Reese Revolution/Sidewinder pin box make a lot more sense.
In sizing a fiver, try to stay below 1400 lbs of dry pin weight because loading the fiver adds 250 lbs or more to it.
The following users liked this post:
RedOne (12-27-2013)
12-26-2013, 12:22 PM
#39
Keepin' the lights on!
Speaking of heavy trailer loads, the worst trailer haul I ever did was a one way trip of 110 miles some years ago. I bought a 40' camping trailer that I needed to take to my property. I didn't have a WD hitch so I just put it on my Excursion's normal hitch and made the trip very early on a Sunday morning on the flattest route possible and kept the speed to 50 mph or below. Long story short, I made it OK but it wasn't the smartest thing I ever done. The trailer is in a permanent location.
.
.
12-27-2013, 07:23 AM
#40
ColdWar Vet-USN Shellback
I think a reasonably sized fiver on an F150 is safer towing than a large, within specs travel trailer because the fiver becomes part of the truck.
The folks pushing the Pullrite SuperGlide as an F150 short bed solution need to understand that it weights 300-350 lbs and that cuts seriously into the payload. A 90 lb Reese 16K and a Reese Revolution/Sidewinder pin box make a lot more sense.
In sizing a fiver, try to stay below 1400 lbs of dry pin weight because loading the fiver adds 250 lbs or more to it.
The folks pushing the Pullrite SuperGlide as an F150 short bed solution need to understand that it weights 300-350 lbs and that cuts seriously into the payload. A 90 lb Reese 16K and a Reese Revolution/Sidewinder pin box make a lot more sense.
In sizing a fiver, try to stay below 1400 lbs of dry pin weight because loading the fiver adds 250 lbs or more to it.
