After getting some helpful advice here, I decided to buy a WDH for the trailer that I don't own yet. I saw a deal and jumped on it. Got a 750lb Blue Ox SwayPro Weight Distribution system since all the trailers I'm looking at are in the 500-600lb tongue weight range. I bought the WDH from a local dude and I think I got a steal (only cost me $100). I assumed I needed to replace the hitch with a bigger drop down because my truck has a 4" lift and runs on 35s (a mistake from my past!). I saw that Blue Ox made up to a 12' drop down so I figured I could make it all work. I measured my hitch today and got 24" :





Again, I don't have a trailer, but assume it will have a hitch height of around 17" - meaning I'll need a 7" drop. Well, I went on to Blue Ox's website and apparently the 12" drop actually only drops the ball 3.28" :



I guess I didn't take into account the design of the WDH for my towing needs. I have a few questions for yall:

1) Since the hitch ball sits so high on this particular WDH, should I look for an even longer drop hitch, like a 16" from a different company? Is that even safe? I see most 16" drop hitches are for larger trucks with 2.5" hitch receivers.

2) Did I just buy the wrong kind of WDH or will I encounter this problem on other setups?

3) So with the 3.25" drop (From the blue ox 12" drop hitch), the ball will sit 20.75 high. Thats still too high for a 17" inch triler hitch, right? Or would the trailer-truck even out once weight is applied and my rear end sags?

Thanks all!

 

Actually my TT is close to 20" when level. They vary from 18-20" as I have seen, maybe more. So the12" drop shank might end up working good for you. It's really hard to guess until you have the trailer. I am not familiar with the Blue OX system, Google is your friend. Another great source for info is etrailer.com.

 

You got that WDH for a steal! Top brand.
The measurement variations shown are incorrectly referenced to the hitch pin hole center. Hitch positions are referenced to the flat top of the drawbar that gets inserted into the receiver.
When setting up your WDH, you’ll need the heights of the top of the ball and inside of the trailer coupler.
Average top of receiver height is about 20”-21”.
There should be enough adjustment to properly set up the hitch, even with a 4” lift.
Strongly recommend downloading the hitch manual and reviewing the setup procedure.
In my case, the ball top gets mounted no less than 1” higher than the inside of the coupler when trailer is level. So it can be more, depending on available adjustments.

 

Since you've got the truck so high, not the trailer? Lotsa trailers get their axles flipped for better clearance.

 

very good point. here is a chart to make that process clear

 

Butttttt, it makes that first step a nightmare and moma will not like it. I wouldn't flip an axel unless there is a need. They pull worse higher up, they are more difficult to stabilize when parked.

 

also, crosswinds while going down the highway will make it want to lean and rock more

 

THEY’RE ALL GONNA DIE!
The same logic applies to a lifted truck. A little doesn’t hurt, just don’t go crazy.
Disclaimer: I flipped my trailer axle using a kit from Dexter (axle maker) to gain 5.5” more clearance to be able to easily get in and out my drive without dragging my black (sewer) pipe. And my factory rear rack when down.

But...
The travel trailer should not need raised by an axel flip for a hitch adjustment problem. Replacement “stingers”, the drop draw bars, are readily available, if needed. OP won’t know for sure if and which one he requires until he gets accurate measurements from the trailer and his hitch.

I suggest setting the hitch on its lowest setting initially when getting that trailer on that lifted truck. Better yet, have the selling dealer set up your hitch .

 

For that first step

 

I want one of those but $$$ for what you get ;(