Bought New Camper, Can My Truck Pull It?
09-27-2014, 08:40 PM
#21
Extreme DIY Homeowner
My copy of the 2006 tow guide says the only F-150 with a tow rating of 9,900 pounds is the regular cab 4x2 with 4.10 axle, 5.4L engine, and long bed. I don't have a copy of the 2005 tow guide, but I'll bet it's identical to the 2006.
The tow guide says the only 2006 F-150 with a tow rating of 6,000 pounds is the SuperCab 4x4 shorty with 4.6L engine and 3.55 axle ratio. Is that your truck?
However, the tow ratings are misleading. They assume there is absolutely nothing in the plain Jane truck with XL trim but a skinny driver and a full tank of gas. No options, no tools, no cooler, nothing. As a general rule, subtract about 1,000 pounds from the tow rating to get a realistic tow rating. So if your tow rating is 6,000 pounds, you'll probably be overloaded with any tandem-axle trailer with wet and loaded weight over 5,000 pounds.
In my case, the tow rating is even more optimistic. My tow rating is 8,400 pounds, but I'm overloaded on a long RV trip with my TT that weighs only 4,870 pounds. Nothing in my SuperCrew but Darling Wife, PuppyDog, toolbox, and a light-weight camper shell
The tow guide says the only 2006 F-150 with a tow rating of 6,000 pounds is the SuperCab 4x4 shorty with 4.6L engine and 3.55 axle ratio. Is that your truck?
However, the tow ratings are misleading. They assume there is absolutely nothing in the plain Jane truck with XL trim but a skinny driver and a full tank of gas. No options, no tools, no cooler, nothing. As a general rule, subtract about 1,000 pounds from the tow rating to get a realistic tow rating. So if your tow rating is 6,000 pounds, you'll probably be overloaded with any tandem-axle trailer with wet and loaded weight over 5,000 pounds.
In my case, the tow rating is even more optimistic. My tow rating is 8,400 pounds, but I'm overloaded on a long RV trip with my TT that weighs only 4,870 pounds. Nothing in my SuperCrew but Darling Wife, PuppyDog, toolbox, and a light-weight camper shell
Everything I have researched has basically pointed towards trailer weight under 5,000 lb dry
It was the Ford Fleet flyer (link in my last post) that stated 9,900 lbs
--they do state "properly equipped" = so that means bigger engine, no cargo etc
--later in the "flyer" they go into more detail of Max weight by vehicle/engine
09-28-2014, 01:13 PM
#22
Complete Asshat
Also, you really should get that fuel strap recall done that you have been ignoring. But that's just me.
09-28-2014, 02:14 PM
#23
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I run my brake controller at 6.4 Volts, even with emergency override on you can just feel a quick tug on the truck. I by no means meant to let the camper brake you, only stating the fact that your Tow Vehicle shouldn’t be abused, use the camper and let the brakes to do their job.
09-28-2014, 02:33 PM
#24
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Update
First camping trip went well; I had a 20 mph south wind towing my rig to the campground. I could only manage 52-53 Mpg running 2550 RPMs.If I pushed it my truck would downshift to 2nd gear and bring me up to 55 but the downshift would dog it.On the way home with no wind at all and set my cruise at 55 mpg and didn’t even know my trailer was behind me running 2400 RPMs, the owner’s manual recommends towing at 55 mph anyhow.I am thinking about doing a full tune up on it, the Check Engine Light has been on for a while.I have a Cornwell Tech Force Scan tool that displays the following codes:
P0171 System Too Lean B1
P0174 System Too Lean B2
Where should I start to tackle these codes? Would a tune up fine tune my tow vehicle for better performance?
Please note that I only get 11.5 MPG with this truck without towing, is this indicative of this codes on my computer? What should I get under normal driving circumstances?
Thanks for all your help thus far!
Michael
P0171 System Too Lean B1
P0174 System Too Lean B2
Where should I start to tackle these codes? Would a tune up fine tune my tow vehicle for better performance?
Please note that I only get 11.5 MPG with this truck without towing, is this indicative of this codes on my computer? What should I get under normal driving circumstances?
Thanks for all your help thus far!
Michael
10-20-2014, 07:33 PM
#25
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Am I chasing rainbows here? I upgraded my truck, spent over a grand. New plugs, wires, Evolution Edge CS programmer, K&N Cold Air intake, fuel filter and more. CEL are off and power is amazing. I went from 11.5 average mpg to close to 20 mpg but haven't towed the camper as it is winterize now. Should I be good?
10-20-2014, 07:45 PM
#26
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Also I read that running the 4.6 engines are acceptable at over 3500 rpms as this is in their power band, anyone have any experience doing this? Will I jeopardize the integrity of the power train by doing so? Also what is the acceptable transmission temp while towing, my CS programmer monitors this as well.
Thanks,
Michael
Thanks,
Michael
10-21-2014, 10:58 AM
#27
Grumpy Old Man
The temp sender the PCM sees is higher than sump temp, so you can go a bit higher than the max sump temp of 225°. Normal tranny temp after about 20 miles of towing is 200° to 210°. I would use 240° as the red line, but would expect a high of about 210° to 225° when towing under adverse conditions. So "acceptable" tranny temp per the programmer is anything less than 225°, with an occasional jump up to 240°.
Normal cruising while towing, even when climbing a long steep grade, is not an adverse condition unless your speed drops so low that the torque converter unlocks. But when the torque converter unlocks at speeds less than about 40 MPH while working the engine hard, then the tranny temp will soar and get too hot in a heartbeat. So watch that gauge like a hawk when climbing steep grades at less than highway speeds.
With the unlocked torque converter, the tranny throws a volcano worth of heat at the tranny coolers, overcoming their cooling capacity. So if you don't want to be paying to replace a burned-up tranny, then when you see see over 225°, get ready to pull over and stop. If it goes above 240°, then stop, put the tranny in park, and elevate the idle RPM to over 1,200 until the tranny temp falls back to 225° or less. DO NOT kill the engine with a hot tranny.
...K&N Cold Air intake...
The K&N is a good intake system if you keep it properly maintained. But it's an engine killer if you don't maintain it properly. Follow the K&N instructions to the "t". Clean the filter as often as K&N requires, use only excellent quality air filter oil, and be certain you oil the filter really good. Also inspect the entire intake system to be certain there are no cracks or crevices where unfiltered air could get into the engine. Dead engines caused by unfiltered air getting into the engine or through the improperly-maintained filter media is a big complaint against K&N air filters. But it's the owner to blame, not K&N.
Last edited by smokeywren; 10-21-2014 at 11:08 AM.