Another "check my math" thread
I'm building up to a short-term plan, and I'd love input on it. I need to dial in the hitch, and test-tow again. My lariat is on the 20" wheels - does anyone have recs for "stiffer" tires? Or maybe going back to 18" with load-rated tires would make a difference? Lastly, I bet I'd really feel the benefit of a 3P hitch. Despite the price, it's a whole lot cheaper than a new truck.
You should find the brand and model of the hitch you have, and find the instructions for adjusting. You should measure the distance from the front fender to the ground BEFORE hooking anything up, then hook up everything but the tension adjustment, then see how much the measurement changed. Some instructions tell you to recover 1/2 of the distance during your adjustment.
From the instructions:
A setup achieving adequate weight distribution usually brings the trailer back to a position parallel to the ground after coupling it to the tow vehicle and engaging weight distribution. It also brings the FRONT of the tow vehicle back down to just slightly higher than the uncoupled height. The REAR of the tow vehicle sits slightly lower than its uncoupled height, but higher than its height when coupled without weight distribution engaged.
https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/pdf/e...structions.pdf
A setup achieving adequate weight distribution usually brings the trailer back to a position parallel to the ground after coupling it to the tow vehicle and engaging weight distribution. It also brings the FRONT of the tow vehicle back down to just slightly higher than the uncoupled height. The REAR of the tow vehicle sits slightly lower than its uncoupled height, but higher than its height when coupled without weight distribution engaged.
https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/pdf/e...structions.pdf
I think you could get your current truck to work if you pack light in the trailer.
I've been weighing each rooms items (bulk weighing) as I load our brand new trailer. That way I know roughly how much weight is where on the trailer.
We have everything in the trailer except clothes, food, toddler supplies and camping chairs, charcoal and grill in there now and I am at just under 300 lbs. That includes replacing the 30lb rv mattress with a 70lb house mattress.
I've been weighing each rooms items (bulk weighing) as I load our brand new trailer. That way I know roughly how much weight is where on the trailer.
We have everything in the trailer except clothes, food, toddler supplies and camping chairs, charcoal and grill in there now and I am at just under 300 lbs. That includes replacing the 30lb rv mattress with a 70lb house mattress.
Last edited by FerdinandF150; Mar 18, 2021 at 01:45 PM.
Yes, but you have to understand Ford's reasoning. LT Tires are heavier, deeper tread and have higher rolling resistance. Ford needed to reduce sidewall flex when raising the Max Tow Rating and the 20" was used to do so without the penalty to their CAFE numbers. The alternative was to place the Max Tow Package on tighter restriction.
I think you could get your current truck to work if you pack light in the trailer.
I've been weighing each rooms items (bulk weighing) as I load our brand new trailer. That way I know roughly how much weight is where on the trailer.
We have everything in the trailer except clothes, food, toddler supplies and camping chairs, charcoal and grill in there now and I am at just under 300 lbs. That includes replacing the 30lb rv mattress with a 70lb house mattress.
I've been weighing each rooms items (bulk weighing) as I load our brand new trailer. That way I know roughly how much weight is where on the trailer.
We have everything in the trailer except clothes, food, toddler supplies and camping chairs, charcoal and grill in there now and I am at just under 300 lbs. That includes replacing the 30lb rv mattress with a 70lb house mattress.
Tires question - I just put a new set of Goodyear Wrangler Kevlar tires, same as the truck came with (https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tir...hoCk6AQAvD_BwE). While I get that they're not the stiffest tire around, do you guys think they're *detrimental* to towing performance?
Appreciate all the insight here - this place rocks!
We are a family of 3 so I predict having 500lbs of stuff with 100-150lbs being things that will come out of the trailer once we land; power cord, EMS plug, dump hoses, camping chairs, wheel chocks, level blocks.
I know the goal is 13% tongue weight, but even 12% could free up 50 lbs. I suggest being methodical in how you load the trailer.
I know the goal is 13% tongue weight, but even 12% could free up 50 lbs. I suggest being methodical in how you load the trailer.
We are a family of 3 so I predict having 500lbs of stuff with 100-150lbs being things that will come out of the trailer once we land; power cord, EMS plug, dump hoses, camping chairs, wheel chocks, level blocks.
I know the goal is 13% tongue weight, but even 12% could free up 50 lbs. I suggest being methodical in how you load the trailer.
I know the goal is 13% tongue weight, but even 12% could free up 50 lbs. I suggest being methodical in how you load the trailer.
This is interesting as i think it through - the Jayco has the "outdoor kitchen" option, which puts the entirety of our outside-accessible storage at the very front, underneath the master bed. We've got a little storage under the lower bunk bed that's behind the axles. The fridge is pretty much dead center on the axles, which will have a lot of food. Water we tend to carry in 1g and 5g jugs, so that can go on the floor towards the back. We'll need to be pretty deliberate with packing luggage and stuff in the back, probably on the kids beds, to counteract the front-loaded weight due to the storage situation. An interesting tetris problem, for sure.
Did you tow it empty? If so you likely had a lower than 13% tongue weight which could have accounted for some of what you experienced. Definitely load it and recheck everything. That is currently the state we are in.





