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I'm thinking of travel possibilities, and I want to know my limits and restrictions before I start shopping. Is my thinking correct about towing capacities? Please see the sticker photos below.
I have a 2016 SuperCab XLT with the Trailer Tow Package and the 3.31 electronic locking rear axle. 2.7 EcoBoost. I've added a factory trailer brake controller. Forget engine size for this scenario. I live in the Appalachian foothills, but aggressive mountain towing would be minimal. It'd be mostly local (not more than 2 hours away) or, if any significant distance, flat to moderate grades with just a few miles of steep hills. Towing specs are:
GVWR = 6,250
Curb weight = 4,649 (GVWR less max payload, I think)
GCWR = 12,500
Curb weight + passengers + cargo = 5,400
Assume a WDH
Assume a Class III or better ball mount
Hitch is rated for 11,000# / 1,110# tongue weight with a WDH
If I want to pull a travel trailer, it looks like my raw max trailer weight, loaded, would be 7,100# (12,500 - 5,400 loaded truck weight). I'd have a remaining payload of 850#, though, (6,250 GVWR - 5,400 actual weight) so that would bring the practical loaded trailer weight down to 6,538# (850 / 13% tongue weight). I know I have to adjust for a full tank of gas, the actual loaded weight of the trailer, etc., but am I on the right track for calculating the trailer weight? Sticker photos follow:
I think you're on the right track. My 2010 Screw numbers are about than 7% less but I'd feel confident towing your load under the conditions you have cited.
Looks like you've got a good handle on things. Unless you already accounted for it in the Cargo the WDH will trim around 100 lbs off your available tongue weight. Bringing your final number down to 750 lbs or so.
You have 1601 lbs of payload. A 7100 lb trailer will have 923 lbs of tongue weight. (7100 X .13=923) Add another 100 lbs for a WDH and that puts you at 1023 lbs on the tongue. That leaves you 578 lbs usable payload, not 850. I think you're pushing things right to the limits with a 7100 lb trailer. My wife and I combined weigh 360 lbs. With us in your truck we'd only have 218 lbs left over for cargo in the truck. Doable, but cutting it close.
It would be a good idea to actually weigh the truck along with any passengers and gear you plan to have in the truck. Then subtract that number from GVWR to get your true payload.
This is where I get confused. I think I see two different calculations being used.
One says use raw tongue weight of 13% plus 100 lbs for the WDH. The other says use that number, but reduce it by 20% because the WDH effectively shifts up to 20% off of the ball and toward the front axle.
To avoid more confusion, I don't intend to pull a 7,100 lb. trailer. I'm trying to figure out what I can safely pull so I'll be able to make an informed decision in the future.
It will get even more confusing when you start looking at trailers. They will list the dry weight but not tell you what is included such as propane tanks and battery. Plus they will generally list a ridiculously low tongue weight. Some people will tell you to use the trailer GVWR for all of your calculations, but that may not be practical if the trailer has a high cargo number. My trailer has a GVWR of 11295 lbs and an empty weight of 6610 lbs. It's normally around 8000lbs loaded ready to go with the fresh water tank full. That's probably an extreme example, but you can see how it would generate vastly different numbers depending on the weight you use for calculations. When you get closer to getting a trailer take your truck to a scale . Get front, rear and total numbers. Not sure about where you are but here you can use the hwy scales when they are closed. Cost you nothing but a little time.
(Truck Gross-Truck Curb)*.13=Trailer Gross
You are on the right track. I don’t nitpick the little stuff. Tools, ice chest, heavy stuff goes in the trailer. Light weight plastic (hoses, chocks, etc.) in the truck. It’s ok to run at max payload although you may end up deciding to upgrade suspension, tires, etc. for more stability.