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Advice on Wolf Pack Toy Hauler

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Old 05-05-2013, 10:05 AM
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Default Advice on Wolf Pack Toy Hauler

Have been looking at a 2011 wolf pack 23' toy hauler and like the set up. Dry hitch is 865 lbs.
Dry weight is 5616 lbs.
Cargo carrying is 2215 lbs.
Exterior length is 28' 9"

My truck is an 09' xlt screw shortbox with tow package (not max), 5.4, 355 rear diff, factory brake control, 6 speed, 7 pin / 4 pin factory hitch, tow/haul mode, LT 275 70/r18 wheels and tires, truck is 7200 GVWR. We would only be hauling glassware in dozen boxes, no quads or toys. With WDH set up properly would I be able to tow SAFELY and would I need sway bars. Any input would be helpful. Thank you.
Old 05-05-2013, 11:04 AM
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What's the door jamb sticker on your truck say about payload?

Think toy haulers tend to have high tongue weights 'cause the toy in back will offset it somewhat. Dry, that trailer has 15.4% of its weight on the hitch. But you're only loading glass. Maybe when loaded it'll be 14-15% ?? And how much stuff will you put in there? Say 1300#, bringing total weight up to 7000# ??

Then your hitch weight will be ~1000# (15% of 7000#). Can your truck handle that? There'll be you, passengers and other stuff all taking up payload.

As for sway, yes, a WDH with sway control will be good as you've got a long high side trailer. The high hitch weight will help combat sway, but probably not enough.
Old 05-05-2013, 12:09 PM
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Thank you. My payload is 1324 lbs. I don't want to be on a fine line towing. Maybe I should look at something smaller. Like the toy hauler because of hauling product and living quarters. We do trade shows. Any suggestions on a safe unit I could look at. Safety on the road is my main priority.
Old 05-05-2013, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by wrangler
Thank you. My payload is 1324 lbs. I don't want to be on a fine line towing. Maybe I should look at something smaller. Like the toy hauler because of hauling product and living quarters. We do trade shows. Any suggestions on a safe unit I could look at. Safety on the road is my main priority.
1324# is not a lot of payload. And anything like a bedrug or cap will reduce it.

Can you say how many #'s you will want to carry in the truck (people, cargo, glass, but not tongue weight) and how much cargo (glass, food, clothing, water) you want to carry in the trailer?

For example, If you want to carry 800# total in the truck, that will only leave 524# for tongue weight. Maybe you can find a trailer where only 12% of its weight is on the tongue. So back calculating, that trailer, fully loaded, should only weigh: 524/0.12 or 4367#, fully loaded! If you had 1000# of gear in the trailer, the trailer itself could only weigh 3367#, dry.

In general, these trucks can tow a lot more than they can haul. So you are better off moving as much as possible out of the truck and into the trailer. If instead of 800# in the truck, you reduced that to 500#, you would have 300# more payload left over for the trailer's tongue weight, which at 12% tongue weight will translate into 2500# more loaded trailer. I know it seems odd, you've got that nice bed in the truck, but your are better off keeping it empty!

Hope this helps in your search.
Old 05-05-2013, 02:55 PM
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Probably 300 lbs with 2 people and fuel in tank. 600 lbs of glass ware, 200 lbs of folding shelves, some clothes, basic food in trailer and probably fill trailer water at stop over plus 2 propane tanks. 2 light folding tables in bed of truck also.
Old 05-05-2013, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by wrangler
Probably 300 lbs with 2 people and fuel in tank. 600 lbs of glass ware, 200 lbs of folding shelves, some clothes, basic food in trailer and probably fill trailer water at stop over plus 2 propane tanks. 2 light folding tables in bed of truck also.
Fuel doesn't count toward Ford's payload, they assume a full tank. If you can get by with 300# in the truck, you might have 1000# for hitch weight. With a good WDH that can haul a lot.

Going back to that original trailer you were looking at with the 15% hitch weight, 1000#/0.15 is a 6667# loaded trailer. That trailer was 5616# dry, so you'll have about 1051# of cargo room.

It just might work, but you'll be right on the edge. Everybody underestimates their weights, it's human nature. If you go for that trailer, the first thing I'd do once I have it loaded up is go to a CAT scale and check the weights. Actually, before buying the trailer, I would just load up the truck as you plan to use it, fill the gas tank, and double-check the weight. If it is 1000# under the GVWR you are golden. If the GVW is much above 6200#, I would reconsider.
Old 05-06-2013, 12:27 AM
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Thanks again. Just looked at a Grey Wolf 22'BH and could make it work by using the bunk bed area for our glass ware. It is a 2013 with a dry weight of 4115 lbs. The GVWR is 7590 with cargo capacity of 3437 lbs. which we would never get near. Our product and personal supplies would be around 1500lbs. max. We would fill water at trade shows but 2 filled propane tanks. Two people in truck with about 150lbs. in bed. Total weight of loaded trailer should be below 6000 lbs.
Old 05-06-2013, 07:16 AM
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Sounds like a better choice.

Pulling close to a truck's limit, even though it may be safe, can be stressful, noisy (with the engine revved up and down-shifting all the time) and hard on the truck.
Old 05-06-2013, 08:53 AM
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Your second choice is much more suitable. If you machinery loads in the rear of the trailer, you should really have sway control of some kind; and a WD hitch for sure. Make sure you adjust your WD hitch while your machinery is in the trailer. Have fun and be safe.
Old 05-06-2013, 09:58 AM
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Thanks guys.


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