robert999

I want to improve my towing capabilities/experience with my 30 ft bumper to hitch ball length, 5,800 lb (loaded) Travel trailer to avoid buying an F 250. I have a 2014 5.0 SCAB with 6.5 ft bed. It has an after market Rousch CAI intake filter kit (came with car from previous owner) otherwise bone stock. I have the 3:31 locking rear & tow package from factory with brake controller. I am going to upgrade to 3:73 rear & I'm looking at either a Hellwig 2,500lb helper spring kit or the Roadmaster active suspension kit. The Hellwig is 55 lbs vs the 29 lb RAS system but cost about 1/2 of the RAS. I have the stock P235/75R17 108S tires on now. I use a Reese W.D. hitch with duel cam sway control. Anything else to consider? I did tow with the stock configuration & had no overheat issues at all. My tires are good for at least another 10-12K. My issue with towing was lack of power going up hills ( lots of downshifts) & getting up to speed onto hwy. Also experienced rear "hopping" trailer bounce at the hitch going over some uneven Hwy roads which was severe at times. Have also issue with the "pull" from large trucks passing me by & light to moderate wind sway which is annoying as hell. I had a total combined weight of 12,000lbs fully loaded at the CATS on my last 10K trip.

smokeywren

Your GCWR is probably 13,500, so at 12,000 gross combined weight you're not overloaded over the "pulling power" rating of your truck. You would probably be more than happy if you had the 3.5L EcoBoost engine, but you don't. Going from 3.31 to 3.73 axle ratio will give your truck a lot more snap when towing heavy, so maybe that will do it for you.


I'm not a fan of hot-rodding the 5.0L V8 engines in F-150s. Ford has already stressed it about as much as it can take without reducing longevity and reliability. But replacing the longer legs of the 3.31 with the shorter legs of the 3.73 should help a lot for heavy towing. It's a 12.7% increase in engine RPM at the same speed. So you'll be higher up on the HP curve of your engine, which should give you a noticeable increase in pulling power.


So I hope that the 3.73 axle ratio will be the answer to your prayers.

marshallr

It should be illegal to sell trucks with 3.31 gearing. Changing to 3.73's should make a huge difference and I'd doubt any other changes will be worth the money.

People are too concerned about the transmission down shifting. In these trucks both 5th and 6th gears are overdrives. 4th gear isn't exactly a 1:1 ratio, but is the closest to what would have been considered top gear 20-30 years ago. People have been pulling the same weight trailers with less powerful engines forever and gave no thought to downshifting to 3rd or 2nd gear on inclines when they only had 4 speeds. Once you realize both 5th and 6th are overdrive shifting down doesn't seem so bad.

The 3.5 with it's torque at lower RPM's will downshift less and move you up the hill faster. But you'll still get to the same spot with the 5.0 and do it faster than in a comparable truck made 20 years ago. If I were buying a truck with a lot of towing in mind I'd certainly suggest the 3.5. But like you I have what I have. It gets the job done for the towing I do.

Gene K

6R80
4.17 (1), 1.52 (3), 1.14 (4), 0.87 (5), 0.69 (6)

4R75
2.84 (1), 1.00 (3), 0.70 (4)

The 3.31 has the same overall 1st gear ratio as 4.86
The 3.31 has the same overall 1st OD ratio as 3.80
The 3.31 has the same overall ratio 1 gear below OD as 3.77

I don't know why people don't get that with closer gear spacing and a lower 1st you don't need as low of an axle ratio.

When you go to lower axle ratios in some situations you can even hurt pulling power. You may be forced to use 3rd where before you could use 2nd.

A 3.31 geared Ecoboost can often use 3rd where a 3.73 geared truck has to lug in 4th. On those hills and load conditions the 3.31 geared truck retains more speed.

robert999

I am not Ecoboosted but a N.A. 5.0. You recommend staying with the 3:31's?

Gene K

No. I somehow dropped my quote.

I was responding to 3.31 gears should be illegal.

All else being equal 3.73 will result in increased startability and ability to use 6th.

Personally I prefer the 3.73 but then I seldom let a 5.0 see the low side of 4000 rpm in a serious climb.

Without knowing what, where and how it's hard to say what would be best in gear. If he uses 5th cruising a lot now he may find he can use 6th. If uses 4th a lot now in a climb he may find 5th is still to tall and now he turns 400 more rpm in 4th. If he refuses to go over 4000 rpm pulling he may find his only recourse on some hills is to slow down.

BRUTE448

if you dont ever plan to upsize in tires stay going with 3.73, but if u see 32 or 33" tires in ur future, then i'd go with ford 4.10's ( same as raptor stock gears) and "future proof" urself with short towing legs! i got 3.73 as i knew id go to 275-70-18 when tires wore out.

77Ranger460

What is your trailers tongue weight loaded? What is your trucks payload rating?

steeltown

Most of what you described is fairly normal. You're towing a very long trailer, so expect some sway, especially when passing trucks or in windy conditions. Even with 3.73, you're still going to be screaming when climbing hills, that's just the way NA engines work, they need to get into higher RPM's to make power.

Unless you're overweight, which it doesn't sound like you are, then you don't need a Super Duty. Just make sure the tongue isn't too heavy or too light. Get your weight distributed properly in the trailer

Mike Up

First sounds like your Reese Dual Cam sway control hitch is setup wrong. I know, I have one sitting in my shed as I replaced it with a Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch. Dealer always had a hek of a time getting it adjusted correctly and the porposeing and wheel hop sounds like misadjustment. Then add in the sway you shouldn't be getting with that Dual Cam sway control system, which points again at a improper adjustment.

Trucks will push you, but should push your rig, truck and trailer, as "ONE". The rocking back and forth or wallowing can be pointed right at the "P"assenger tires you have. Replace them with "LT" tires that are meant to be used for towing and have stiffer sidewalls, and most of that wallowing back and forth will disappear.

My 2012 Screw 4WD truck had a 5.0L w/3.73 and had gobs of power for towing. Never had any issues pulling my loaded trailer up steep hills. I felt I had much more power than I needed which is where I want to be. My 2016 is even more powerful with lighter F150 and more powerful 5.0L.

I really don't know why Ford even offers a 3.31 axle as it saps all of the power out of the 5.0L. Even so, the 5.0L is a robust engine and should have plenty of grunt for those hills. Check your air filter. I found a dirty air filter really takes a hit on the power of the 5.0L, 5.4L 3 valve, and even the 4.6L 3 valve.

Surprisingly, with my new 'lighter' truck and the change over to a Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch, my new truck handles better than my previous 2012 F150 with the Reese Strait Line system (Dual Cam Sway Control). So I haven't felt the need to change out the tires with LT tires as I did with the 2012.

When tires need changing, they will be LT tires for sure. I just like the stiffer tire's performance towing and when not towing.

BTW, my trailer is in my signature and it's weight can vary from 6500 lbs to 7000 lbs loaded. It's the trailer I've towed with all 3 trucks, 2010, 2012, and now the 2016.

I think the 5.0L is a great engine for towing and why I chose it this round for the 2016. I like it's much more consistent power over the Ecoboost engines. The 2016 5.0L can be configured just as the Max Tow, as I did on mine, but with only one exclusion, I don't get the beefed up rear bumper/hitch combo that's good for only another 100 lbs of tongue weight. I still get the beefed up payload/axle ratings, 36 gallon gas tank, Pro Trailer Backup Assist, front stabilizer bar, brake controller and the needed fluid coolers. I passed on the mirrors as I like the Ksource mirrors I have.