It deleted my actual words when I uploaded a pic. So ive got a question. Will both of these connectors connect to a stock 7 pin connector on a newer Ford?

Reason I ask, I own a 2017 3.5EB with the 4 pin and 7 pin on the rear. I tow two trailers, the one on the left is my utility trailer 7 pin and it fits tight and feels like it locks in. I don't think it would come out even if there were no lip where the lid holds it in. The one on the right is from my camper, and it feels like it just sits in there. Truck shows trailer connected but if I jiggle the wire it disconnects and reconnects. Just odd because my 2014 Ram I never had an issue, or never noticed an issue. Etrailer said both are the "same" but different? Lol. So my thought is to upgrade my connector for my camper so it fits nice and tight.


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Is that some type of screw on the connector that can be tightened?

 

The one on the left has a removable shell, the screw is just holding it in. The plug on the left fits flawlessly, its the plug on the right I'm having issues with on this truck.

 

Both look like they should work if fully inserted into the plug and the lid on the vehicle's plug forced over the lip of the trailer's plug. If you cannot get the plugs to fit tighter when the lid of the plug is pressed over that little lip on the plug from the trailer, then I would buy a new plug for the trailer end and wire it in.

Here's one:

Or any decent RV store should have them in stock.

 

A suggestion, if I may, would be to get some electrical contact cleaner on the socket of the right one. CRC QD is safe on plastics. Corrosion and / or oxidation will cause intermittent contact. Also take a screw driver and slide it behind the brass tangs to tighten them up. When your done all that use dialectic grease on the male prongs before inserting your plug.
Try all that then if you feel there is a problem get a new plug.

 

The older brass connector on the Right is actually made better, but its terminals are designed for the old-style blades (and it may even work with pins). The newer one on the Left has terminals that are better-suited to most newer 7-blade sockets, which may be why it works better in your new truck. Post a pic of the truck's socket, showing its terminals.

Dielectric grease is the wrong type to enhance electrical contacts - the correct grease is "electrical grease" (which is NOT conductive). But it only protects the metal surfaces of the terminals - it doesn't clean them. CRC QD only removes Carbon & grease; not oxidation or corrosion. If you want to clean the brass terminals, I'd use a sandblaster, followed by shop air, then QD, then electrical grease.

But a new connector would be a lot less hassle, and probably cheaper. I just got one of these for an old trailer I'm fixing:
It still needs electrical grease, though. New is the best time to apply it. This caption contains links that explain it:


(phone app link)

 

Does the center pin on the right move?

I replaced the 7-pin head on my trailer and haven't had a problem since. It fits the hole snugly and locks in with the pin cover.

 

no, its solid

 

I appreciate the help guys.

I ended up talking to a guy at etrailer and I actually read a lot of Q&A and apparently there are quite a few Ford Owners that have the same issue. The easiest and quickest solution for me is to splice in a new RV standard plug that's has the right "color" wires but is shaped like the new plugs.

Short term is I'm just gonna splice them, long term is I'm going to eventually get a terminal box because I guess splicing isn't the "best" solution since they say water can eventually get into the area no matter how much electrical tap is used.

 

The one I linked above comes with the box.