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2018 F150 - Camper Weight Check

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Old 11-25-2017, 08:40 PM
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M12
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Default 2018 F150 - Camper Weight Check

I had posted this to another forum and it was suggested I post it here instead. Looking to have some help with confirming towing capacity and ability to tow the travel trailer I'm looking at purchasing. This is the first camper so most of these concepts are new to me.

I have a 2018 F150 Lariat 4x4 Supercrew Shortbed (145" wheel base) with a 3.5 Ecoboost, Max Tow Package, 20" wheels, 3.55 axle ratio. Total GCWR 18,100 and 11,100 max towing (but limited by pay load of course).

Truck Specs (F150) - From Door Sticker
GVWR = 7000 lbs.
Front GAWR = 3525 lbs.
Rear GAWR = 4050 lbs.
Max. Payload = 1575 lbs.

Actual Weights from CAT Scales (Including all passengers)
Front Axle = 3380 lbs.
Rear Axle = 2640 lbs.
Total Truck Weight = 6020 lbs.

Camper Specs
Dry Weight = 5720 lbs.
GVWR = 7600 lbs.
Manuf. Specified Hitch Weight = 715 lbs

Based on everything I'm reading I'm going through the below calculations.

Total Actual Truck Weight of 6020 lbs. + 75 lb. pet + 100 lb WD hitch = 6195 lbs total.

We're only expecting to load at max. 1000 lbs to the trailer as we're not hauling water, etc. so we're looking at camper dry weight 5720 lbs + 1000 lbs = 6720. The max weight of 6720 * 13% hitch weight = 874 lbs hitch weight.

Total truck weight of 6195 + 874 lbs. hitch weight = 7069 lbs. This would put me at 69 lbs. over GVWR of the truck at 7000 lbs. However, it is not counting in any potential redistribution of the weight distributing hitch of weight back to the trailer axle. I've read that potentially it could be 20% weight distribution back to the trailer? If that's the case I would be under the 7000 GVWR. In addition, I'm assuming I could redistribute the weight and do things like put the battery, propane tanks, etc. in the trailer and off the tongue. If I reduced it to it to 10% tongue weight it would save me 200 lbs. on tongue weight which would again put me under GVWR.

Does all that sound right? The WD distribute hitch with 13% may put me under regardless but if not, I could reduce to 10% and be under as well? I seem to have 1410 lbs. available on the rear GAWR so it would be well under that for hitch weight.

Thanks in advance for all the help!!

Last edited by M12; 11-25-2017 at 09:23 PM. Reason: Updated Truck Stats
Old 11-25-2017, 09:13 PM
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All of your logic seems good to me. Some of the assumptions (estimates) could be slightly off but that shouldn't materially affect your results. The WD hitch effect would be to transfer weight from the rear axle to the front axle and to the trailer. You already know that you are at your limit. But I don't think you would need to worry about pulling that trailer.
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M12 (11-25-2017)
Old 11-25-2017, 09:17 PM
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Your logic is sound. Keep in mind that distributing weight to the rear of the trailer increases the likelihood of sway. Since you're already using the scales, just keep doing what you're doing to nail down the details...
Old 11-26-2017, 09:16 AM
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The proof in the pudding will be the actual CAT scale weights after the wet and loaded rig is on the road to the first campsite. A TT with GVWR of 7,600 pounds is probably going to result in exceeding the payload capacity of your F-150. A normally-loaded TT will gross around 7,000 pounds with 900 pounds tongue weight. If you're the bad guy insisting on not exceeding the payload capacity of your truck, then you're probably going to have angry family members because they cannot bring all the stuff they would like to have on a camping trip.


GVWR of the F-150 minus the weight on the two axles of the F-150 should result in a positive number. If the number is negative, you're overloaded. I suspect with that trailer loaded for a real-world camping trip, you'll be overloaded.


I haul only DW and two dogs that weigh a total of 50 pounds. But with an empty camper shell and a tool box, I exceed the payload capacity of my F-150 that has GVWR of 7,100 pounds with my TT that grosses only 4,870 pounds when wet and loaded on the road.
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Old 11-26-2017, 10:26 AM
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It’s good to see someone work the numbers before buying the trailer. You’ve done all you can do on paper and it looks like it’s definitely doable. Unfortunately if you read this forum enough you’ll see that there are a few that are within the ratings and still have problems when towing. There’s always a risk/gamble involved because no two combinations are the same. I would say the odds are in your favor but the truth won’t be known until you hitch up, adjust WD and drive.
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Old 11-26-2017, 10:45 AM
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The specs you list for your truck are identical to mine, but I came up with a GCWR of 16,100 when I went through the steps. It takes "Max. Duty Trailer Tow Pkg. - Class IV receiver hitch. Optional on 3.5L GTDI Heavy Frame Crew Cabs only" to get to 18,400 according to the owners manual.
Old 11-26-2017, 11:27 AM
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Thanks for all the responses! My vehicle does have the "Max Duty Tow Package" so I assumed I would fall under the higher GCWR of ~18,000. Either way though, my payload is limiting me way below that anyways so even with the 16,000 GCWR I'm in the same dilemma. I don't believe the "Heavy Frame Crew Cabs" is meant to be the same as the HDPP package but either way I'm in the same boat.

Would it be worthwhile to ask the dealership to hook up a WD hitch and connect it to my truck and take it over the CAT Scales to weigh it prior to purchase? I'm not sure if they would do it, but they have a CAT Scale 3 minutes from their location. At least then I would know for sure the overall weights on each axle dry (with propane, battery, etc.) ? Then I could just figure out how much extra tongue weight I would be adding with loading gear in the trailer.

Just trying to figure out how I can make sure I won't regret my purchase a week after buying it!

Thanks again!!

Last edited by M12; 11-26-2017 at 11:28 AM. Reason: Formatting
Old 11-26-2017, 11:41 AM
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If the scales are that close, I would definitely ask even if it’s an empty number. If it helps them make the sale they might just go for it, but then again they might say no.
Old 11-26-2017, 11:48 AM
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Ignore GCWR, you will never achieve it unless you pull farm wagons. Your setup is within 300 pounds of mine, including the scale weight of the truck. Use a good hitch like Blue Ox or Equilizer. You might want to consider using 1200-1500# spring bars instead of the normal 1000# bars. If you load the trailer to 6400 pounds, your tongue weight will be at that 1000 pound limit, you have to add the weight of the hitch to the TW of the trailer.

With the hitch properly setup, you should be able to return the 3520 back to the steer axle, shift an equal amount of weight back to the trailer axles, and be within limits of the drive axle.


Unfortunately, you can't take a trailer on a test drive, at least there aren't any dealers I know that will let you.
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Old 11-26-2017, 10:44 PM
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Your numbers are close to mine. I had the flexibility with a toy hauler to move some generators and tool boxes from in front of the axles to behind the axles to get the tongue weight down from 920 to 780. With 587 lbs. in the truck, 80 lb. hitch and 780 lbs. tongue weight, it's at 95% GVWR, 94% fGAWR, 92% rGAWR and 88% GCWR. 80% of 1607 lb. payload has been used, 89% of the weight lifted from the front has been returned, 10.8% of trailer weight on the tongue, 480 lbs. lifted from the rear axle with 320 transferred to the front and 160 transferred to the trailer axle. 20.5% of the tongue weight was transferred to the trailer axles.
I made a little spreadsheet that helps me look at the numbers.




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