What does your sticker say inside the driver's door jam? That will tell you what your truck can actually carry for payload with you, your trailer, your gear in the truck, and what not. That's a great starting point.

 

 

No, it doesn't. Please go read it. It might be that number with the last zero removed...

Your trailer does not have a hitch weight of 604. If you read through the many threads on here, you'll see that the average hitch weight is 13 - 15%. Regardless, by going over 500 pounds of hitch weight, you'll need a weight distribution hitch.

Once you find your payload, subtract the weight of you and your family, any modifications made to the truck, and 100 pounds for the wdh. Take the final value and divide by 0.13, for 13% average hitch weight. That's the max LOADED trailer you should consider buying, assuming no one in your family will gain any weight. Safer to go under that of course. And remember, the trailer you buy you should be looking at its max loaded weight. You're going to put 1,000 - 1,500 pounds of stuff in it.

 

 

Then have the dealer put it on a scale. Make sure you do that after loading up the propane tanks, and any water. Weigh the trailer, then weigh the tongue. You won't find a 10% tongue weight on it, and as you can see in many threads, if you don't put enough tongue weight on the truck the trailer won't handle well.

Also, don't trust the trailer dealer to tell you what it's safe to tow. Weigh it. Do the math yourself. They want to sell you a trailer, and don't care at all about your family's safety.

 

Ignore the UVW because the trailer does not weigh that, it's heavier, and will get heavier before you leave on the first trip. The only person that number means anything to is the shipper that picked it up at the plant. Also the tongue weight is @ 10%, and you will want to focus on 13% as your target hitch weight.

There are two more important numbers on the trailer to look at, Cargo and GVWR. Most trailer sites I notice do not post GVWR, some do. So if it is not there add the UVW and CCC together for gross. Multiply GVWR by 13% and that is the target tw of that trailer.
I know some question why I use GVWR as the target, and the answer is simple. It would be the most that trailer should ever weigh. Another factor to consider, some trailers don't have a lot of cargo capacity. I looked at one last week at an RV show that had an 8600 pound GVWR and only 1120 pounds of cargo. Filling the FWT ate up over 1/3rd of it. Most first timers tend to over due it on stocking the trailer and would bring the kitchen sink if it didn't have one.

So with the GVWR @13%, now take the truck and passengers with a full tank of gas to a scale and get a weigh. Subtract that from the trucks GVWR and if you have a balance greater than the 13% weight +100 for the hitch, you are good to go.

Also keep length in mind, stay under 32' if you want a comfortable drive, anything longer is asking for trouble. Mine is 28' and handles very well with a Blue Ox hitch. A good hitch is highly recommended, don't buy an expensive trailer and cheap out on the hitch.

 

 

So now do the math, subtracting everything you've added (mudflaps, bed liner, etc.), family, dog, ...

 

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