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I have a new set-up all the way around, and I have questions/concerns. My TV is a 2017 F150 3.5 ecoboost, max tow, 6.5 bed. My travel trailer is a 2017 Jayco 29RKS. According to the website, the specs are Dry Weight 6,700 lbs.Payload Capacity 2,800 lbs.GVWR 9,500 lbs. Hitch Weight 770 lbs. of course that is unloaded. I am not close to any public scales so I don't accurately know the loaded tongue weight. The hitch provided by the RV dealer is the Curt 14,000/1,400 with friction sway bar. C17063. I have pulled the TT twice, about 70 miles each way. I could definitely feel it behind me with some sway. I'm open to suggestions for best set up. Don't know if that means new hitch, truck suspension assistance or other. I am am an RV newbie, so Thanks for your input.
First off, you simply can't guess your weights. The unloaded weights are worthless except for on the way home from the dealer. Try an excell sheet like I have (I can send it your way) to determine if your front axle is close to stock or not.
Second, give a good look at how the trailer is loaded. Make sure the bulk of the weight is in front of the front axle. Anything behind can cause it to sway a bit.
First off, you simply can't guess your weights. The unloaded weights are worthless except for on the way home from the dealer. Try an excell sheet like I have (I can send it your way) to determine if your front axle is close to stock or not.
Second, give a good look at how the trailer is loaded. Make sure the bulk of the weight is in front of the front axle. Anything behind can cause it to sway a bit.
I have a Jayco 28RBS with dry hitch weight of 770, loaded with water the hitch weight is 950lbs and that’s purposely loading to lighten it. Ironically I have to move weight forward on the return trip home when the water is empty, so a WD hitch adjustment isn’t needed. Underbad storage is very light, the front through bin lightly loaded,one propane tank is empty. It was over 1100lbs before making adjustments. Can you show pictures of the setup?
I went through several iterations of adjusting the hitch head to return more weight to the steer axle. It takes three passes across the scales, once with the trailer attached with the WD bars attached, once with the trailer attached with the WD bars detached and stored in the truck bed near the tailgate, once with the trailer detached and the hitch head and WD bars removed from the truck. I also pre-weighed the hitch on the bathroom scales. That way you can subtract the weight of the hitch from the total load on the hitch receiver to determine the tongue weight.
The truck should be loaded with passengers and cargo as it would be for camping. When you go through the scales, be sure to have the steer axle on the first platform, the drive axle on the second platform and the trailer axles on the third platform. On the first time through, tell the attendant that it's a "first weigh" and make up a number for your rig. On subsequent passes, tell the attendant it's a "re-weigh" and give the last four digits of the serial number printed on the first ticket. That way, all the tickets will have the same number. The cost is $11 for the first weigh and $2 for each re-weigh.
Then you can figure the weight on the hitch receiver, how much weight is lifted from the steer axle by the trailer tongue weight and how much weight is returned to the steer axle when the WD hitch bars are attached.
Your truck is a little small for that travel trailer ,even though you have plenty of pulling capabilities. You would have much better stability with a 3/4 ton truck it's added weight,10 ply tires and suspension are better suited to pulling long ,enclosed trailers. What I always did with my Ram and Chevy was add some weight in the bed about 4-500 makes a huge diffference, I always camped with a large igloo cooler and a bed full of firewood for the trip, this was enough to settle the slight loose feeling I had when empty. Air up the truck tires to max inflation pressure if you haven't already .The on,y true cure short of a heavier tow vehicle is likely a Pro pride hitch or a Hensley arrow ,either will completely eliminate the sway,and also eliminate a chunk of change from your wallet,but you'll be safe with that hitch.
Your truck is a little small for that travel trailer ,even though you have plenty of pulling capabilities. You would have much better stability with a 3/4 ton truck it's added weight,10 ply tires and suspension are better suited to pulling long ,enclosed trailers. What I always did with my Ram and Chevy was add some weight in the bed about 4-500 makes a huge diffference, I always camped with a large igloo cooler and a bed full of firewood for the trip, this was enough to settle the slight loose feeling I had when empty. Air up the truck tires to max inflation pressure if you haven't already .The on,y true cure short of a heavier tow vehicle is likely a Pro pride hitch or a Hensley arrow ,either will completely eliminate the sway,and also eliminate a chunk of change from your wallet,but you'll be safe with that hitch.
I haven’t towed my camper with a F150, I use a 3/4 ton truck and have no sway issues using a Equalizer hitch.
I went through several iterations of adjusting the hitch head to return more weight to the steer axle. It takes three passes across the scales, once with the trailer attached with the WD bars attached, once with the trailer attached with the WD bars detached and stored in the truck bed near the tailgate, once with the trailer detached and the hitch head and WD bars removed from the truck. I also pre-weighed the hitch on the bathroom scales. That way you can subtract the weight of the hitch from the total load on the hitch receiver to determine the tongue weight.
The truck should be loaded with passengers and cargo as it would be for camping. When you go through the scales, be sure to have the steer axle on the first platform, the drive axle on the second platform and the trailer axles on the third platform. On the first time through, tell the attendant that it's a "first weigh" and make up a number for your rig. On subsequent passes, tell the attendant it's a "re-weigh" and give the last four digits of the serial number printed on the first ticket. That way, all the tickets will have the same number. The cost is $11 for the first weigh and $2 for each re-weigh.
Then you can figure the weight on the hitch receiver, how much weight is lifted from the steer axle by the trailer tongue weight and how much weight is returned to the steer axle when the WD hitch bars are attached.
Could it be possible to get that spreadsheet somehow?
10-08-2017, 08:24 PM
2017 3.5 Eco/33 ft TT
