From supercharged RCSB Tundra to 2013 RCSB 5.0 STX. Let the fun begin.
03-07-2014, 08:13 PM
#81
Senior Member
Pulling the fuse kills the ABS.
03-08-2014, 12:40 AM
#82
Senior Member
Yeah I kinda figured that is what it was. Tundra was the same way. I need to see if there is a way to turn it off with the Diablo. I assume pulling the fuse causes a CEL? We had to pull the ABS fuse on the Tundra and the dash would light up like a Christmas tree and no speedometer.
I messed around with the manual mode this afternoon. Way better and more responsive than the Tundra. It will actually stay in 2nd gear if you take off from a stop. Not much help at my current lower power level and 3.31 gear, but would have loved this in the 4.3 geared Tundra when running street tires. The Tundra would downshift to 1st on it's own every time and smoke the tires.
I messed around with the manual mode this afternoon. Way better and more responsive than the Tundra. It will actually stay in 2nd gear if you take off from a stop. Not much help at my current lower power level and 3.31 gear, but would have loved this in the 4.3 geared Tundra when running street tires. The Tundra would downshift to 1st on it's own every time and smoke the tires.
03-08-2014, 08:37 PM
#83
2011 f150 5.0 supercharger
Hey guys I have been lurking for a little bit and figured now that I am a Ford owner it was time to jump in. I just picked up a 2013 RCSB STX, unfortunately with the 3.31 and no LSD. I had a 2008 Tundra with the TRD supercharger and a Bully dog tune. It was consistently running low 12's @ 112-114MPH, but it really needed a taller tire to keep it out of fifth gear and probably would have dipped into the 11's. 
After dealing with the POS dealer here in town and coolant leak, plus the lack of /expensive aftermarket I decided it was time to try the number one selling truck. Traded the 2008 Tundra and walked out with the 2013 Ford for $15909. 
Couple old videos, before tune TRD Tundra 12.3@109 - YouTube TRD Tundra vs GTO 1/4 mile - YouTube I said I was going to keep the new truck stock for the next two months until I got my shop built, but parts are so cheap I couldn't resist. Had the truck 3 days and just picked up a Diablo Intune for $360 and a set of those lakewood traction bars that Boss5.0 was using. I had caltracs on my Tundra but these are a 1/4 the cost and if Boss5.0 can cut 1.6 60ft I can live with that. Going to order a K&N CAI and build a 3" catback from some parts I have lying in the garage and see about getting a custom E85 tune. E85 is only $2.50 a gal right now, which is about 1/3 less than 93, so the increased fuel consumption balances out with the benefit of cooling/higher octane. Any recommendations on who to contact about a custom E85 tune? I am 4 hours from Houston and 3 from Dallas. From what I understand the Intune is warranty friendly as all it leaves behind is that the battery was reset. Any confirmation? For now I want to stick with just bolt-ons, because I need a nice reliable truck while clearing/building on our new property. Once the shop is built I will be pursuing a custom rear turbo setup. Quite a few Tundra guys were running them with great results. I think a RCSB 5.0 fueled by some ID 1000's/E85 should be able to make/handle 5-600whp pretty easily on remote setup and make for a fun work truck. 
After dealing with the POS dealer here in town and coolant leak, plus the lack of /expensive aftermarket I decided it was time to try the number one selling truck. Traded the 2008 Tundra and walked out with the 2013 Ford for $15909. Couple old videos, before tune TRD Tundra 12.3@109 - YouTube TRD Tundra vs GTO 1/4 mile - YouTube I said I was going to keep the new truck stock for the next two months until I got my shop built, but parts are so cheap I couldn't resist. Had the truck 3 days and just picked up a Diablo Intune for $360 and a set of those lakewood traction bars that Boss5.0 was using. I had caltracs on my Tundra but these are a 1/4 the cost and if Boss5.0 can cut 1.6 60ft I can live with that. Going to order a K&N CAI and build a 3" catback from some parts I have lying in the garage and see about getting a custom E85 tune. E85 is only $2.50 a gal right now, which is about 1/3 less than 93, so the increased fuel consumption balances out with the benefit of cooling/higher octane. Any recommendations on who to contact about a custom E85 tune? I am 4 hours from Houston and 3 from Dallas. From what I understand the Intune is warranty friendly as all it leaves behind is that the battery was reset. Any confirmation? For now I want to stick with just bolt-ons, because I need a nice reliable truck while clearing/building on our new property. Once the shop is built I will be pursuing a custom rear turbo setup. Quite a few Tundra guys were running them with great results. I think a RCSB 5.0 fueled by some ID 1000's/E85 should be able to make/handle 5-600whp pretty easily on remote setup and make for a fun work truck.
03-10-2014, 09:50 PM
#84
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks!
It was your youtube videos that inspired me to come to the dark side.
My 16" Raceline Rockcrusher wheel finally came today. Pretty much the same specs as the Procomps I ran on the Tundra.
16x8
-20mm
3.65 backspace
20lbs
2500lb load capacity
$116 at Summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rl...8065/overview/
The fit is close, just like I had figured to my prior measurements. I had to grind about a 1/4" in some spots on my Tundra to get the ProComps to clear. The good news is these Racelines look like they will only require a couple minor spots maybe 1/16". I can pretty much see daylight between the caliper and the inside of the wheel, but it is probably only 1/32 of clearance in a couple spots in the middle an just barley touching at the very back edge. I could possibly bolt them up and let the caliper grind a little off the inside of the softer aluminum wheel.
The clearance is so close I really wont know how bad if at all they will rub until I bolt them up and drive on them. A 1/4" space could possibly help, but with the -20mm offset they already stick out about an 1". I am not a big fan of spacers, so I would rather not. They will not clear the fronts without major grinding and trimming the dust shield.
It was getting dark, but I was able to snap a few pics.
I'm gonna order another wheel tomorrow and once it comes mount the Hoosiers up then see how they actually do with the truck on the ground.
It was your youtube videos that inspired me to come to the dark side.
My 16" Raceline Rockcrusher wheel finally came today. Pretty much the same specs as the Procomps I ran on the Tundra.
16x8
-20mm
3.65 backspace
20lbs
2500lb load capacity
$116 at Summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rl...8065/overview/
The fit is close, just like I had figured to my prior measurements. I had to grind about a 1/4" in some spots on my Tundra to get the ProComps to clear. The good news is these Racelines look like they will only require a couple minor spots maybe 1/16". I can pretty much see daylight between the caliper and the inside of the wheel, but it is probably only 1/32 of clearance in a couple spots in the middle an just barley touching at the very back edge. I could possibly bolt them up and let the caliper grind a little off the inside of the softer aluminum wheel.
The clearance is so close I really wont know how bad if at all they will rub until I bolt them up and drive on them. A 1/4" space could possibly help, but with the -20mm offset they already stick out about an 1". I am not a big fan of spacers, so I would rather not. They will not clear the fronts without major grinding and trimming the dust shield.
It was getting dark, but I was able to snap a few pics.
I'm gonna order another wheel tomorrow and once it comes mount the Hoosiers up then see how they actually do with the truck on the ground.
03-10-2014, 09:52 PM
#85
Senior Member
Thread Starter
BTW is there a moderator that can maybe move this thread to the Member build section? I didn't notice there was a section when I first joined.
Thanks!
Thanks!
03-12-2014, 01:03 PM
#88
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I was outside trying to figure out how I can utilize the K&N intake tube as part of my charge piping and I came across something interesting. The best easiest way that will work is to flip the tube/MAF, 90 down off the throttle body. This will require a 12" MAF extender from VMP $39.00, tie in driver side PCV to passenger side and some longer hose for the vacuum line.
For a naturally aspirated truck this would turn the K&N intake into a true CAI/Ram air. I don't know if it will make a difference, but I know in the Honda world running a similar setup with a velocity stack definitely helps. But that's a 2000lb car compared to a 5000lb truck. I want to see what my truck can do all motor, before I go FI. Since it only takes 15 minutes to swap over, I may try it at the track. I need to order the MAF extension and hoses to run it this way for the turbo setup, so why not give it a try. I got some pics, but google server is down right now, so I will upload later.
I got my refund from my worthless Toyota extended warranty and I think I am ready to start ordering some turbo parts. The way I am thinking I can build this kit in stages, start out with no intercooler, low boost, stock injectors maybe push 400-425whp depending on IAT and injector duty cycle.
Gonna order a 76MM ON3 turbo and a Precision 46MM wastegate, then work on welding up the manifold and charge pipes.
For a naturally aspirated truck this would turn the K&N intake into a true CAI/Ram air. I don't know if it will make a difference, but I know in the Honda world running a similar setup with a velocity stack definitely helps. But that's a 2000lb car compared to a 5000lb truck. I want to see what my truck can do all motor, before I go FI. Since it only takes 15 minutes to swap over, I may try it at the track. I need to order the MAF extension and hoses to run it this way for the turbo setup, so why not give it a try. I got some pics, but google server is down right now, so I will upload later.
I got my refund from my worthless Toyota extended warranty and I think I am ready to start ordering some turbo parts. The way I am thinking I can build this kit in stages, start out with no intercooler, low boost, stock injectors maybe push 400-425whp depending on IAT and injector duty cycle.
Gonna order a 76MM ON3 turbo and a Precision 46MM wastegate, then work on welding up the manifold and charge pipes.
03-12-2014, 10:47 PM
#89
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The other 16"wheel will be here Monday. Gonna keep the UPS man busy next week. I'll try ad get the tires mounted up and see what they do on the ground.
Here are the pics of the intake and how it looks reversed. Just need a 90 coupler off the throttle body. For the turbo setup another 90 coupler will replace the filter.
Here are the pics of the intake and how it looks reversed. Just need a 90 coupler off the throttle body. For the turbo setup another 90 coupler will replace the filter.
03-13-2014, 01:18 AM
#90
Senior Member
The other 16"wheel will be here Monday. Gonna keep the UPS man busy next week. I'll try ad get the tires mounted up and see what they do on the ground.
Here are the pics of the intake and how it looks reversed. Just need a 90 coupler off the throttle body. For the turbo setup another 90 coupler will replace the filter.
Here are the pics of the intake and how it looks reversed. Just need a 90 coupler off the throttle body. For the turbo setup another 90 coupler will replace the filter.
Just so you know, if in the future you have surging or any kind of tuning issues (rich, lean, crazy a/f and/or MAF readings), it's probably related to turbulence created by the MAF angle relative to the TB blade angle. This is because air doesn't travel evenly in all parts of the intake so it can read more or less than stock with these relationships are changed. With my custom intake and overall setup my tuner warned me to never "clock" the maf any other way than how it was when he tuned it. I'm not saying it will do it, it probably won't, I'm just saying it could.
Last edited by mechanicboy; 03-13-2014 at 01:25 AM.