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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 07:36 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by [F2C]MaDMaXX
Having done some snow and mud since fitting the wheel well liners, i've seen what gets caught up in there, i would never run a truck without them, as i've also seen that it's a 'narrowing to a point' gap between the bed side and the fender side, it's a rust trap.

The switchbacks seem to be doing fine still, but i will warn you if i didn't put it in my thread, that when the engine is running and i use the indicators, there is a kind of flicker to the start of the amber flash. It's interference from the engine/electrical/etc. as it doesn't happen when it's off, but i left them in, as the effect is 99% the same as you see on ambulances with that flicker start of the emergency lights, so it's a good attention getter IMO.

Love the door detents, parking lots and my garage, that extra 'stop' gets used 90% of the time.
I wonder if that's just because when you have the truck started your running lights are on and the "flicker" is the switchback going from constant white to flashing amber? Or if it is indeed some sort of interference I wonder if you could put on some of those clip on noise filters like what computer power cables have.

With my truck being leveled it hasn't been as much of an issue with the doors as long as i'm still careful with them. But it's still something i'll eventually get.
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 07:43 PM
  #12  
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I had my Brother test the crap out of the LED's themselves, but couldn't make them do anything but work normally - it also affects them being off and just flashing amber, so it's not the switchback function, again, all works perfectly without the engine running, so i'm curious how they do in yours - i used to have loads of those ferrite rings, but no longer, so i can't test that theory (i did think about doing so)

The doors are one of those, "really?!" things, and i worked round it fine, and always remembered to grab it so it didn't fall open on the stops (even when there was room) even the Wife started grabbing it to stop it falling away. Now i've got real stops in there, it actually highlights just how bad they really were, and how much we compensated (watched Wife go to grab it to save it falling open, only to find it stopped on the new detent)
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by [F2C]MaDMaXX
I had my Brother test the crap out of the LED's themselves, but couldn't make them do anything but work normally - it also affects them being off and just flashing amber, so it's not the switchback function, again, all works perfectly without the engine running, so i'm curious how they do in yours - i used to have loads of those ferrite rings, but no longer, so i can't test that theory (i did think about doing so)

The doors are one of those, "really?!" things, and i worked round it fine, and always remembered to grab it so it didn't fall open on the stops (even when there was room) even the Wife started grabbing it to stop it falling away. Now i've got real stops in there, it actually highlights just how bad they really were, and how much we compensated (watched Wife go to grab it to save it falling open, only to find it stopped on the new detent)
I'll probably order them in the next few days and i'll update the post. I also need to get my sequential mirror signals installed. But being below 20 degrees when I get off work at 11pm there just isn't much motivation for me haha. I also need to figure out what's making noise on my drivers side rear. Just another thing I don't feel like getting into with how cold it is. Guess I should buy a better heater for the garage!
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 08:03 PM
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I grabbed that little dish heater from HF, works fine when it's cold in there.

I would surmise it's your parking brakes. Sequential mirror signals?
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 08:12 PM
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I believe it to be the parking brake as well which is why I haven't bothered to deal with it just yet. And yes I bought two sets one to replace the amber reflective lens on the cap side and one to replace the stock mirror signal on the glass side. They are smoked LED sets and they light up from one end to the other in sort of a Kit from Night Rider kind of way haha.

I started looking for the 3157 switchbacks to see what other brands have them and noticed that Diode Dynamics offers a inline resistor to prevent hyper flashing. Did you install any inline resistor on yours? My mirror signals come with them "built in" already so i'm curious about the front marker/signal.
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 08:17 PM
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No, i used Forscan to stop any hyperflashing, i just disabled the bulb checks - so far as i can tell, nothing is directly wired in the F150, it's all computer based, so no relay to replace for that, just a bulb check checking for resistance. Oh, and if you're upgrading, do get the brake/tail replacements, they're considerably brighter than stock and nice and easy to see for other road users.
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 08:24 PM
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My new tail lights are all LED already including the reverse light. I checked on ForScan and found where to disable the bulb alarms because the set I had on it when I bought the truck were already LED as well. Turns out none of it was disabled and everything works just fine. You're right though I can always go turn that off through ForScan so I don't need to resistor I guess. I may order the set from Diode Dynamics and see how good they are.
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 11:57 PM
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Oh ok, that makes sense.
Got a link to the DD switchbacks?
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Old Feb 12, 2021 | 12:40 AM
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https://www.diodedynamics.com/switch...-150-pair.html

They are a little pricey compared to Amazon and others but I’ve never heard a bad word about them.
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Old Feb 12, 2021 | 12:43 AM
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Ooof, no kidding!

It's really difficult for me to justify that, especially when i've already got a working set.... I know Summers has issues with their mounting (repeatedly) in his 13th gen, but that's a different socket type - he also mentioned the bulbs i have look similar to ones he saw burn up in a 10th gen - but, having said that, so many bulbs look the same these days as the market has worked out the best parts to throw together.
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