My 2007 F-150 Lariat Mod/Build thread
06-06-2016, 02:20 PM
#71
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
I restitched one side and the bottom, resizing the bottom to make it more evenly sized.
Then I re-attached using black thread and it looks infinitely better than it did. I did misjudge the angle of descent on the measurement toward the bottom, just a tiny little bit, but honestly, I don't even care.
Then I re-attached using black thread and it looks infinitely better than it did. I did misjudge the angle of descent on the measurement toward the bottom, just a tiny little bit, but honestly, I don't even care.
06-06-2016, 07:49 PM
#72
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
I replaced the cowl ends and repainted the cowls tonight. I know it's a little hard to see from the first pic, but they were oxidized and faded grey.
Now they're smooth black with just the tiniest bit of shine to them (thank you rustoleum car trim paint).
Now they're smooth black with just the tiniest bit of shine to them (thank you rustoleum car trim paint).
Last edited by elricfate; 06-06-2016 at 08:53 PM.
06-06-2016, 11:25 PM
#73
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
32" curved Light bar gets here tomorrow. Going to see if I can get all the front lights wired in.
Also had a guy contact me about testing LED headlights. They're . I only considered doing it because of their design having cut-off reflector bowls for the low beams. Either they're going to be decent in a retrofit with the stock reflectors, or they're going to suck. Either way I'm not out a ton of money.
Also had a guy contact me about testing LED headlights. They're . I only considered doing it because of their design having cut-off reflector bowls for the low beams. Either they're going to be decent in a retrofit with the stock reflectors, or they're going to suck. Either way I'm not out a ton of money.
06-07-2016, 12:03 PM
#74
Senior Member
How do you keep your cowls from popping up in the middle?
06-07-2016, 12:09 PM
#75
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Here's what I posted in the other subforum.
As well as the TSB.
Could be that you're missing the bolt in the middle, or some of the slats that hold them together are busted. There's a bunch of little hooks that run on the front and back of the cowl, but there's also three little hooks that hold the two together in the middle.
There's a bolt that's supposed to be there for the passenger side cowl, and there's a little slotted piece that sits them together. I'm missing the bolt. I'm sure that it will cause an issue at some point, but it hasn't yet.
If you're missing the bolt and any of those middle hooks are broken (or even the loops), it would bow in the middle. It's not hard to check them. Just pull out the christmas tree plugs, pull off your wipers, take off the rubber gasket and starting working your driver side up and forward, it will come out (and make a bunch of snapping noises as the hooks come off the areas that they're holding onto). Then you can check.
There's a bolt that's supposed to be there for the passenger side cowl, and there's a little slotted piece that sits them together. I'm missing the bolt. I'm sure that it will cause an issue at some point, but it hasn't yet.
If you're missing the bolt and any of those middle hooks are broken (or even the loops), it would bow in the middle. It's not hard to check them. Just pull out the christmas tree plugs, pull off your wipers, take off the rubber gasket and starting working your driver side up and forward, it will come out (and make a bunch of snapping noises as the hooks come off the areas that they're holding onto). Then you can check.
TSB 08-25-5
12/22/08
DRIVERS SIDE COWL PANEL POPPED-UP
FORD:
2004-2008 F-150
LINCOLN:
2006-2008 Mark LT
This article supersedes TSB 07-24-5 to update the Service Procedure.
ISSUE
Some 2004-2008 F-150 and 2006-2008 Mark LT (Excluding Heritage) vehicles may encounter a concern of the windshield cowl panel not being fully seated, popped up or giving the appearance of being warped.
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
NOTE HEAVY-PRESSURE MAY RESULT IN BREAKING OF THE J-HOOK.
1. Attempt to seat the cowl panel by gently applying pressure, first downward, then rearward to the inboard rear area of the cowl panel, forward of the windshield to determine if it will engage the sheet metal flange below. (Figure 1)
2. Pull test will confirm if the hooks are engaged and that the sheet metal flange has not been bent too far forward. From the driver's side of the vehicle, with your left hand place your thumb on the fender top, then place your fingers into the cowl's lower portion for the wiper arm and pull lateral on the cowl panel. Panel will pop up at center when pulled outboard if the hooks are not properly engaged to the flange. (Figure 2)
1. Remove the cowl panel(s). Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 501-02 for removal instructions.
2. Confirm engagement and proper installation of cowl grill. The cowl design makes use of long J-hooks (Figure 2, view A) on the bottom side of the cowl panel to engage a sheet metal flange below the cowl panel sur[ace area. On vehicles built prior to August 2006, you will need to visually confirm that the J-hooks on the right hand (RH) parts are engaged to the sheet metal flange. The left hand (LH) part will need to be removed to observe this. Vehicles built after August 2006 have a raised feature forward of the screw attachment support tower on the RH part (near the center line of the vehicle), which is to ensure that the cowl panel is not built forward and is in the correct position for the J-hooks to engage the sheet metal flange. Check if the LH cowl panel is installed correctly, you can either tug the part forward or outward (towards the fender). Each move should cause the rear of the part or the split joint between the RH and LH cowl grills to pop up if the J-hooks were not engaged. Relying on an audible confirmation of engagement could cause a false-positive assessment of the parts being installed and retaining correctly and should not be used as the final indicator of correct installation.
3. If the RH part does not have the split joint hook engaged to the sheet metal flange it must be set properly before the LH part can be corrected. Remove LH cowl grill and set aside. Loosen screw on RH cowl grill. Push down and rearward over the hook to engage the sheet metal flange. While holding part rearward, re-tighten the screw.
4. If it is found that the LH parts cannot be installed correctly (the rear edge or split joint pops up after panel is shifted), remove the LH cowl panel (driver side) and place it out of the way. The flange to which the J-hook engages needs to be adjusted slightly upward 3/32" (2 mm) in two areas using a pair of wide bill pliers (Figure 1, view B). Then install the cowl panel and retest by trying to shift either forward or outward. An audible click confirmation of hook engagement could cause a false positive assessment of the parts being installed correctly and should not be used as the final indicator of correct installation. Using the pull test, from the driver's side of the vehicle, with your left hand place your thumb on the fender top, then place your fingers into the cowl's lower portion for the wiper arm and pull lateral on the cowl panel. Panel will pop up at center when pulled outboard if the hooks are not properly engaged to the flange. This will confirm the flange has not been bent too far forward. If the rear edge and split joint stays down and the margin on the inboard edge to the LH part is consistent, then complete installation of the LH cowl has been achieved. (Figure 3)
12/22/08
DRIVERS SIDE COWL PANEL POPPED-UP
FORD:
2004-2008 F-150
LINCOLN:
2006-2008 Mark LT
This article supersedes TSB 07-24-5 to update the Service Procedure.
ISSUE
Some 2004-2008 F-150 and 2006-2008 Mark LT (Excluding Heritage) vehicles may encounter a concern of the windshield cowl panel not being fully seated, popped up or giving the appearance of being warped.
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
NOTE HEAVY-PRESSURE MAY RESULT IN BREAKING OF THE J-HOOK.
1. Attempt to seat the cowl panel by gently applying pressure, first downward, then rearward to the inboard rear area of the cowl panel, forward of the windshield to determine if it will engage the sheet metal flange below. (Figure 1)
2. Pull test will confirm if the hooks are engaged and that the sheet metal flange has not been bent too far forward. From the driver's side of the vehicle, with your left hand place your thumb on the fender top, then place your fingers into the cowl's lower portion for the wiper arm and pull lateral on the cowl panel. Panel will pop up at center when pulled outboard if the hooks are not properly engaged to the flange. (Figure 2)
1. Remove the cowl panel(s). Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 501-02 for removal instructions.
2. Confirm engagement and proper installation of cowl grill. The cowl design makes use of long J-hooks (Figure 2, view A) on the bottom side of the cowl panel to engage a sheet metal flange below the cowl panel sur[ace area. On vehicles built prior to August 2006, you will need to visually confirm that the J-hooks on the right hand (RH) parts are engaged to the sheet metal flange. The left hand (LH) part will need to be removed to observe this. Vehicles built after August 2006 have a raised feature forward of the screw attachment support tower on the RH part (near the center line of the vehicle), which is to ensure that the cowl panel is not built forward and is in the correct position for the J-hooks to engage the sheet metal flange. Check if the LH cowl panel is installed correctly, you can either tug the part forward or outward (towards the fender). Each move should cause the rear of the part or the split joint between the RH and LH cowl grills to pop up if the J-hooks were not engaged. Relying on an audible confirmation of engagement could cause a false-positive assessment of the parts being installed and retaining correctly and should not be used as the final indicator of correct installation.
3. If the RH part does not have the split joint hook engaged to the sheet metal flange it must be set properly before the LH part can be corrected. Remove LH cowl grill and set aside. Loosen screw on RH cowl grill. Push down and rearward over the hook to engage the sheet metal flange. While holding part rearward, re-tighten the screw.
4. If it is found that the LH parts cannot be installed correctly (the rear edge or split joint pops up after panel is shifted), remove the LH cowl panel (driver side) and place it out of the way. The flange to which the J-hook engages needs to be adjusted slightly upward 3/32" (2 mm) in two areas using a pair of wide bill pliers (Figure 1, view B). Then install the cowl panel and retest by trying to shift either forward or outward. An audible click confirmation of hook engagement could cause a false positive assessment of the parts being installed correctly and should not be used as the final indicator of correct installation. Using the pull test, from the driver's side of the vehicle, with your left hand place your thumb on the fender top, then place your fingers into the cowl's lower portion for the wiper arm and pull lateral on the cowl panel. Panel will pop up at center when pulled outboard if the hooks are not properly engaged to the flange. This will confirm the flange has not been bent too far forward. If the rear edge and split joint stays down and the margin on the inboard edge to the LH part is consistent, then complete installation of the LH cowl has been achieved. (Figure 3)
06-07-2016, 12:43 PM
#76
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
I was just thinking today, while on a boring conference call, about the fact that I didn't want to mount a bunch of buttons to the dash and tear it all up for the various things I want to do.
So why not use the ash tray, which I'll never use myself, except instead of pulling it out completely, I wanted to be able to hide the buttons/keep the trim looking the same the whole way down.
I work with kydex for holsters and sheaths, so I have some spare laying around. Why not make an insert so I can replace the ash tray and mount the buttons to it instead?
I think I might give this a go and see how well it goes.
So why not use the ash tray, which I'll never use myself, except instead of pulling it out completely, I wanted to be able to hide the buttons/keep the trim looking the same the whole way down.
I work with kydex for holsters and sheaths, so I have some spare laying around. Why not make an insert so I can replace the ash tray and mount the buttons to it instead?
I think I might give this a go and see how well it goes.
06-08-2016, 10:11 PM
#79
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
I was asked to review some LED headlights by someone (who is not a vendor here, though I did try to get a set of theirs at a discount so I could test head to head, but was denied).
From what I can tell they're just about the same thing, likely sourced from the same main manufacturer/factory.
Anyhow. I present you with the following without comment.
The order of pictures will go Low Incandescent, Low LED, High Incandescent, High LED.
From what I can tell they're just about the same thing, likely sourced from the same main manufacturer/factory.
Anyhow. I present you with the following without comment.
The order of pictures will go Low Incandescent, Low LED, High Incandescent, High LED.
06-09-2016, 07:47 PM
#80
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
I was asked to review some LED headlights by someone (who is not a vendor here, though I did try to get a set of theirs at a discount so I could test head to head, but was denied).
From what I can tell they're just about the same thing, likely sourced from the same main manufacturer/factory.
Anyhow. I present you with the following without comment.
The order of pictures will go Low Incandescent, Low LED, High Incandescent, High LED.
From what I can tell they're just about the same thing, likely sourced from the same main manufacturer/factory.
Anyhow. I present you with the following without comment.
The order of pictures will go Low Incandescent, Low LED, High Incandescent, High LED.