My 06 STX
08-28-2011, 09:51 PM
#1
My 06 STX mods
Over the last few months I have really been using this forum to do a few things to my truck..So I thought now would be a good time to show some of the results.
History: I got this truck in 06. I was getting really bored with my 04 Altima and wanted something new. On an impulse, I bought this STX. I really liked it but then the 07 Altima came out, I gave my dad the STX so I could buy a new Altima. Recently I totaled my Altima (tractor trailer rearended me at a light) so I bought the truck back. So now I am driving it full time. The truck literally sat in the driveway for the last 4 years. He only drove it on the weekends.
FIRST: (OEM #: 4L3Z1542528AB)
The emblem on the front was trashed from what I can only think was a problem with the initial installation.
The new emblem makes the front look new again. The dealership did have a problem figuring out the OEM number. They kept saying that the smaller emblem was the right one.
SECOND:
I kept looking at a CAI system and just couldn't decide. Then I ran across the Gotts Mod. I also removed the silencer. Doing both of these makes a fairly dramatic difference in throttle response and gave it more of a "throaty" sound.
At the same time I took off the cowl and painted it with trim paint (looks new now) and replaced the wiper blades with Bosch Icon blades.
THIRD:
Right after getting the truck I had a spray in liner put in. Needless to say, by now it looks horrible. It had a large green area and started to flake really bad. I know that some of the new spray in's do better now, but....
A friend of mine referred me to another dealership and they did it for $200 including install. It's actually an incredibly thick liner and I don't think I'll have problems with it.
FOURTH: (aka SoUnD)
I kept looking for the 'right' exhaust system. I looked at several kits and listened to them installed. Just nothing did it for me. I heard one at the gas station and I thought it was perfect. The next day I was having it installed by the same guy that did his.
It's a flowmaster 40 series. The muffler is set about 2 foot back off the cat and just a simple SIDO system. When I first had it put on, I almost went back. It was sooo drone inside that I was getting a headache. But it's been a while and now it sounds perfect. I was going to post these later but decided to go ahead and do it now (sorry it was so dark, was getting late)..and NO revs, its late and I didn't want to tick people off
FIFTH:
Now this was very important. My truck came with 6 disc and satellite radio. I wanted/needed an aux input. Every single pac unit I found said this wasn't possible if you have satellite radio. But I had the satellite on when I first got the truck but quickly got bored with it. I want my iPhone going so...
I installed PAC AAI-FRD04 Auxiliary Input and a Clarion CCAAUX Female 3.5mm Stereo Mini-Jack. Simply disconnect the satellite and it works. I might install the switcher later so that the satellite works too, but I'm happy for now!
PS. using the extra wiring harness beside the cigarette lighter (where I installed the Clarion jack) looses it's power after you switch the truck 'on'. This was irritating to figure out. That harness is for the backup censors.
SIXTH:
After having autodim mirrors in every car I've had for a while, I really missed it.
I installed the **** 36500 Wedge Base Auto Dim Mirror. I installed it off the fuse panel using a 'add a fuse' and connecting it through the radio acc fuse (this would also come in handy on my next install). I had to remove the A pillar trim on both sides. On the left was to snake the the temp censor down and the right was the power.
I sent the temp censor through a grommet aright above the break pedal. Under the hood it is here:
It it unused. Just pop a tiny hole in the center and send the wires through. It is easier to do it from under the hood through to the inside. Then I snaked it around to in front of the radiator.
It is very accurate except when sitting still. The heat from the engine bay washes back forward and it goes up around 4-5 degrees.
I also direct wired my radar detector to the mirror harness. I cut the coil out and added a few inches of wire and sleeved it. This makes it better because the 12V and lighter are always on. Got tired of cutting it off every time I turned off the truck. Now its switched. Very simple!
History: I got this truck in 06. I was getting really bored with my 04 Altima and wanted something new. On an impulse, I bought this STX. I really liked it but then the 07 Altima came out, I gave my dad the STX so I could buy a new Altima. Recently I totaled my Altima (tractor trailer rearended me at a light) so I bought the truck back. So now I am driving it full time. The truck literally sat in the driveway for the last 4 years. He only drove it on the weekends.
FIRST: (OEM #: 4L3Z1542528AB)
The emblem on the front was trashed from what I can only think was a problem with the initial installation.
The new emblem makes the front look new again. The dealership did have a problem figuring out the OEM number. They kept saying that the smaller emblem was the right one.
SECOND:
I kept looking at a CAI system and just couldn't decide. Then I ran across the Gotts Mod. I also removed the silencer. Doing both of these makes a fairly dramatic difference in throttle response and gave it more of a "throaty" sound.
At the same time I took off the cowl and painted it with trim paint (looks new now) and replaced the wiper blades with Bosch Icon blades.
THIRD:
Right after getting the truck I had a spray in liner put in. Needless to say, by now it looks horrible. It had a large green area and started to flake really bad. I know that some of the new spray in's do better now, but....
A friend of mine referred me to another dealership and they did it for $200 including install. It's actually an incredibly thick liner and I don't think I'll have problems with it.
FOURTH: (aka SoUnD)
I kept looking for the 'right' exhaust system. I looked at several kits and listened to them installed. Just nothing did it for me. I heard one at the gas station and I thought it was perfect. The next day I was having it installed by the same guy that did his.
It's a flowmaster 40 series. The muffler is set about 2 foot back off the cat and just a simple SIDO system. When I first had it put on, I almost went back. It was sooo drone inside that I was getting a headache. But it's been a while and now it sounds perfect. I was going to post these later but decided to go ahead and do it now (sorry it was so dark, was getting late)..and NO revs, its late and I didn't want to tick people off
FIFTH:
Now this was very important. My truck came with 6 disc and satellite radio. I wanted/needed an aux input. Every single pac unit I found said this wasn't possible if you have satellite radio. But I had the satellite on when I first got the truck but quickly got bored with it. I want my iPhone going so...
I installed PAC AAI-FRD04 Auxiliary Input and a Clarion CCAAUX Female 3.5mm Stereo Mini-Jack. Simply disconnect the satellite and it works. I might install the switcher later so that the satellite works too, but I'm happy for now!
PS. using the extra wiring harness beside the cigarette lighter (where I installed the Clarion jack) looses it's power after you switch the truck 'on'. This was irritating to figure out. That harness is for the backup censors.
SIXTH:
After having autodim mirrors in every car I've had for a while, I really missed it.
I installed the **** 36500 Wedge Base Auto Dim Mirror. I installed it off the fuse panel using a 'add a fuse' and connecting it through the radio acc fuse (this would also come in handy on my next install). I had to remove the A pillar trim on both sides. On the left was to snake the the temp censor down and the right was the power.
I sent the temp censor through a grommet aright above the break pedal. Under the hood it is here:
It it unused. Just pop a tiny hole in the center and send the wires through. It is easier to do it from under the hood through to the inside. Then I snaked it around to in front of the radiator.
It is very accurate except when sitting still. The heat from the engine bay washes back forward and it goes up around 4-5 degrees.
I also direct wired my radar detector to the mirror harness. I cut the coil out and added a few inches of wire and sleeved it. This makes it better because the 12V and lighter are always on. Got tired of cutting it off every time I turned off the truck. Now its switched. Very simple!
Last edited by lees150; 08-28-2011 at 10:10 PM.
08-28-2011, 09:52 PM
#2
cont..
I was limited to 10 pics on that post so...
SEVENTH:
I really wish I decided to do this post when I installed this. But, next was power windows/locks/keyless entry. I ordered the kits from A1 Electric. I got the Avital AVI-2101 Keyless Entry and the 2 door power lock kit. These locks are amazing. I like the mirror feature where when you lock one, they both lock and vise versa. The keyless entry kit was fairly easy also. I use the same ACC wire from the fuse panel that I used on the mirror. Then I used another 'add a fuse' to a 30amp non switched fuse (which I will also use again next).
Just a quick note tho...A1 sends a install sheet along with the factory manual for the Avital system. Use A1 sheet only for the lock/unlock wire. Everything else, follow the manual.
For the flashing lights, I removed the side panel on the dash (when you open the door you can see it) and attached it directly to the top wire on the the harness that connects to the light switch. The only problem with this, is when you lock/unlock the doors, the parking lights do flash, but all the instruments lights flash also. I need to find the isolated wire(s) for the parking lights. If anyone knows...I would really appreciate it!
Next is the power windows. Yeah I went wrong with this one. I got the SPAL power windows and switch kit. This was a very fast install. Which the motors mounted quick and I wired it super fast. But when people show the the switch location, they don't mention they have to cut a hole in the door because these switches are incredibly deep. But the dremel tool made quick work of it.
I used the same wire I used earlier for the parking light flasher for the illumination for the switches.
I heard a lot of trash about these window motors. That they labored really bad and whined. These don't. The go up steady and down fast. They just don't go up incredibly fast. But still go up strong.
But I will be replacing these soon with the factory style and swapping out door panels for the factory style with switches.
Random Pics
(yeah thats 11k miles lol)
I hope you might find something useful from this. If you have ANY questions, just ask and I will respond as soon as I can. I just figured that I used this forum for so much, maybe I can return a bit
SEVENTH:
I really wish I decided to do this post when I installed this. But, next was power windows/locks/keyless entry. I ordered the kits from A1 Electric. I got the Avital AVI-2101 Keyless Entry and the 2 door power lock kit. These locks are amazing. I like the mirror feature where when you lock one, they both lock and vise versa. The keyless entry kit was fairly easy also. I use the same ACC wire from the fuse panel that I used on the mirror. Then I used another 'add a fuse' to a 30amp non switched fuse (which I will also use again next).
Just a quick note tho...A1 sends a install sheet along with the factory manual for the Avital system. Use A1 sheet only for the lock/unlock wire. Everything else, follow the manual.
For the flashing lights, I removed the side panel on the dash (when you open the door you can see it) and attached it directly to the top wire on the the harness that connects to the light switch. The only problem with this, is when you lock/unlock the doors, the parking lights do flash, but all the instruments lights flash also. I need to find the isolated wire(s) for the parking lights. If anyone knows...I would really appreciate it!
Next is the power windows. Yeah I went wrong with this one. I got the SPAL power windows and switch kit. This was a very fast install. Which the motors mounted quick and I wired it super fast. But when people show the the switch location, they don't mention they have to cut a hole in the door because these switches are incredibly deep. But the dremel tool made quick work of it.
I used the same wire I used earlier for the parking light flasher for the illumination for the switches.
I heard a lot of trash about these window motors. That they labored really bad and whined. These don't. The go up steady and down fast. They just don't go up incredibly fast. But still go up strong.
But I will be replacing these soon with the factory style and swapping out door panels for the factory style with switches.
Random Pics
(yeah thats 11k miles lol)
I hope you might find something useful from this. If you have ANY questions, just ask and I will respond as soon as I can. I just figured that I used this forum for so much, maybe I can return a bit
Last edited by lees150; 08-28-2011 at 09:59 PM.
08-28-2011, 11:29 PM
#3
'08f150stx
[QUOTE=lees150;1047811]Over the last few months I have really been
SIXTH:
After having autodim mirrors in every car I've had for a while, I really missed it.
I installed the **** 36500 Wedge Base Auto Dim Mirror. I installed it off the fuse panel using a 'add a fuse' and connecting it through the radio acc fuse (this would also come in handy on my next install). I had to remove the A pillar trim on both sides. On the left was to snake the the temp censor down and the right was the power.
I sent the temp censor through a grommet aright above the break pedal. Under the hood it is here:
It it unused. Just pop a tiny hole in the center and send the wires through. It is easier to do it from under the hood through to the inside. Then I snaked it around to in front of the radiator.
It is very accurate except when sitting still. The heat from the engine bay washes back forward and it goes up around 4-5 degrees.
MY COMMENT;
I believe the factory temp sensors are set in a bracket in from of the radiator.
That eliminates the temp change. For what it is worth. GREAT JOB!
SIXTH:
After having autodim mirrors in every car I've had for a while, I really missed it.
I installed the **** 36500 Wedge Base Auto Dim Mirror. I installed it off the fuse panel using a 'add a fuse' and connecting it through the radio acc fuse (this would also come in handy on my next install). I had to remove the A pillar trim on both sides. On the left was to snake the the temp censor down and the right was the power.
I sent the temp censor through a grommet aright above the break pedal. Under the hood it is here:
It it unused. Just pop a tiny hole in the center and send the wires through. It is easier to do it from under the hood through to the inside. Then I snaked it around to in front of the radiator.
It is very accurate except when sitting still. The heat from the engine bay washes back forward and it goes up around 4-5 degrees.
MY COMMENT;
I believe the factory temp sensors are set in a bracket in from of the radiator.
That eliminates the temp change. For what it is worth. GREAT JOB!
Last edited by '08f150stx; 08-29-2011 at 10:14 AM.
08-30-2011, 07:25 PM
#5
Yeah I would if you want a simple install. But SPAL makes a factory replacement set that you might want to consider first. It's just a little more and will give you the option later to replace the door panels with the factory ones with switches. But I have to admit, these new SPAL ones, do have fairly strong motors and they don't really bind up (on a 30 amp fuse) going up.
09-10-2011, 10:00 PM
#6
A couple of new changes...
FIRST:
I found a super cheap set of chrome ring air vents. The vents were really discolored but the chrome was in mint condition. So I grabbed them up and exchanged black bezels for the chrome ones.
These are going to make my next upgrade all come together.
SECOND:
I decided to put chrome handles on. But I didn't want get the entire handle. I think it's just too much and looks cheap. I found some polished stainless steel ones that just seem to look just right.
THIRD (sort of..):
I just couldn't handle the brake dust anymore. I almost made the plunge and got some Hawk pads. But the price just seemed crazy! So I found some info on Armor All Wheel Protectant. I really was skeptical because I don't really care for Armor All products. But I'll try anything.
This stuff promises no break dust, repels water and mud, blah blah. So I was laughing the whole time I was spraying it on. What I did was:
- Clean the wheels with maguiars hot wheel rim cleaner
- Used mothers wheel & aluminum polish on the center cap and front of the wheel
- Wiped the wheel with a damp microfiber cloth to make sure it's clean
- Sprayed the wheel extremely thorough with the Armor All (used almost an entire can on all four)
- Let it sit over night
This is after two weeks. Every 2-3 days I use a swiffer duster to wipe the wheel down.
I wiped it down on Wednesday (4 days ago) and this is all that has built up. You can sort of see a finger swipe. But the best part is that Thursday it rained pretty hard and the armor all lasted.
But I think that the swiffer method just works super quick and doesn't take off the armor all. I can't wait to see if it really lasts for a month or not.
Next update...
Door panels from an XLT and power mirrors. I am going to pull these off a local wrecked truck so I can pull the whole harness out. I'm pulling the SPAL power window kit off and putting OEM style in.
FIRST:
I found a super cheap set of chrome ring air vents. The vents were really discolored but the chrome was in mint condition. So I grabbed them up and exchanged black bezels for the chrome ones.
These are going to make my next upgrade all come together.
SECOND:
I decided to put chrome handles on. But I didn't want get the entire handle. I think it's just too much and looks cheap. I found some polished stainless steel ones that just seem to look just right.
THIRD (sort of..):
I just couldn't handle the brake dust anymore. I almost made the plunge and got some Hawk pads. But the price just seemed crazy! So I found some info on Armor All Wheel Protectant. I really was skeptical because I don't really care for Armor All products. But I'll try anything.
This stuff promises no break dust, repels water and mud, blah blah. So I was laughing the whole time I was spraying it on. What I did was:
- Clean the wheels with maguiars hot wheel rim cleaner
- Used mothers wheel & aluminum polish on the center cap and front of the wheel
- Wiped the wheel with a damp microfiber cloth to make sure it's clean
- Sprayed the wheel extremely thorough with the Armor All (used almost an entire can on all four)
- Let it sit over night
This is after two weeks. Every 2-3 days I use a swiffer duster to wipe the wheel down.
I wiped it down on Wednesday (4 days ago) and this is all that has built up. You can sort of see a finger swipe. But the best part is that Thursday it rained pretty hard and the armor all lasted.
But I think that the swiffer method just works super quick and doesn't take off the armor all. I can't wait to see if it really lasts for a month or not.
Next update...
Door panels from an XLT and power mirrors. I am going to pull these off a local wrecked truck so I can pull the whole harness out. I'm pulling the SPAL power window kit off and putting OEM style in.
06-16-2012, 11:34 PM
#7
Just have been super busy lately and haven't had a chance to update..but here are a few..
After the last update I changed the mirrors. I went with power, turn, and ptm mirrors. I liked them for a while and then fell for these.
Towing!! Power, Puddle, and turns are working perfect. I didn't hook up the defrost because it's just a crazy amount of work :P
Next I popped off those chrome caps and went with a different look.
These are the real deal..Grippin billet handles. Very solid and heavy. I ordered smooth buckets and just had them painted locally. I swapped the springs and pins out with the OEM ones just so they are more solid.
I just popped in a OEM tailgate handle because a billet (by grippin) is $99.00 just for the rear and just couldn't see it.
(ebay .. still high!!)
Next was the decals. I was going to replace my originals (because they were getting that ugly dirty ring around them) with another set of OEM. But then I found these..
Tell me what you think..?
After the last update I changed the mirrors. I went with power, turn, and ptm mirrors. I liked them for a while and then fell for these.
Towing!! Power, Puddle, and turns are working perfect. I didn't hook up the defrost because it's just a crazy amount of work :P
Next I popped off those chrome caps and went with a different look.
These are the real deal..Grippin billet handles. Very solid and heavy. I ordered smooth buckets and just had them painted locally. I swapped the springs and pins out with the OEM ones just so they are more solid.
I just popped in a OEM tailgate handle because a billet (by grippin) is $99.00 just for the rear and just couldn't see it.
(ebay .. still high!!)
Next was the decals. I was going to replace my originals (because they were getting that ugly dirty ring around them) with another set of OEM. But then I found these..
Tell me what you think..?
Trending Topics
06-16-2012, 11:35 PM
#8
Next I went all out and installed OEM power door panels, regulators, and kept the aftermarket locks I put in.
This was the biggest project yet. I ordered all the motorcraft connectors and created a wiring harness from scratch. Ran everything through the dash in a wire conduit (solder, shrink, tape, and then in a 3/8 wire conduit). I then installed a accessory fuse box behind the passenger vent panel in the dash. KEY** for everyone having problems with slow windows after doing this, 12 gauge wire for pos and 14 for ground makes everything as strong or stronger than factory.
Then a keyless system that actually worked..
I went with Autoloc with the flip key. Haven't got around to bypassing PATS but the keyless side works perfect.
Next was a new cluster. When I started this thread my truck had 11k miles. Now I use it as a daily driver and have gotten the miles up to a insane 20k (yes, thats smart *** lol). But I wanted a tach and it was getting to be impossible to find a XLT or FX4 with low miles.
I found a dealer on ebay with tons of clusters for sale and contacted him. I needed one that had 14,500 (at the time). He had one that had 14,520 in a XLT. I parked the truck and got it in and wham..now a cluster (after 2 hours at the dealership for programming lol).
This gave me the tach and the infamous dimming dome lights. Works perfect! PS. The shift control cable is a ********* to put back on! Ford didn't believe the mileage either, looked up the trucks records and just looked at me like I was crazy lol.
Next..if you saw it..was a leather wrapped steering wheel from a FX4.
Took about 15 minutes after I got a puller. Just swapped the silver cruise buttons for my original black and was done.
Next was a change to my exhaust. The 3" cans were killing me inside. It was sooooooooooooo drone. Especially after I put on a extang solid fold tonneau. It just vibrated the whole cabin. So I went with this..
It's dual-dual 3.5" tips just welded on my other exhaust. It sounds better and cuts out about 95% of the drone sound. I saw another truck with these on youtube and had to go for it. Everywhere I go people just stop and look. Most say they like it, some say they have just never seen it before. Works for me though
The some quickies..
EZDown tailgate and the Rugged Liner wheel liners. Love the wheel liners!!!
The last thing I have done is the bed caps. I looked at refurbing them (paint) or replacing with aftermarket. Didn't like anything I saw. So...
OEM bed caps and tailgate cap. Took 10 minutes and cost a fortune! lol But the originals were so faded and ug-lee!
This was the biggest project yet. I ordered all the motorcraft connectors and created a wiring harness from scratch. Ran everything through the dash in a wire conduit (solder, shrink, tape, and then in a 3/8 wire conduit). I then installed a accessory fuse box behind the passenger vent panel in the dash. KEY** for everyone having problems with slow windows after doing this, 12 gauge wire for pos and 14 for ground makes everything as strong or stronger than factory.
Then a keyless system that actually worked..
I went with Autoloc with the flip key. Haven't got around to bypassing PATS but the keyless side works perfect.
Next was a new cluster. When I started this thread my truck had 11k miles. Now I use it as a daily driver and have gotten the miles up to a insane 20k (yes, thats smart *** lol). But I wanted a tach and it was getting to be impossible to find a XLT or FX4 with low miles.
I found a dealer on ebay with tons of clusters for sale and contacted him. I needed one that had 14,500 (at the time). He had one that had 14,520 in a XLT. I parked the truck and got it in and wham..now a cluster (after 2 hours at the dealership for programming lol).
This gave me the tach and the infamous dimming dome lights. Works perfect! PS. The shift control cable is a ********* to put back on! Ford didn't believe the mileage either, looked up the trucks records and just looked at me like I was crazy lol.
Next..if you saw it..was a leather wrapped steering wheel from a FX4.
Took about 15 minutes after I got a puller. Just swapped the silver cruise buttons for my original black and was done.
Next was a change to my exhaust. The 3" cans were killing me inside. It was sooooooooooooo drone. Especially after I put on a extang solid fold tonneau. It just vibrated the whole cabin. So I went with this..
It's dual-dual 3.5" tips just welded on my other exhaust. It sounds better and cuts out about 95% of the drone sound. I saw another truck with these on youtube and had to go for it. Everywhere I go people just stop and look. Most say they like it, some say they have just never seen it before. Works for me though
The some quickies..
EZDown tailgate and the Rugged Liner wheel liners. Love the wheel liners!!!
The last thing I have done is the bed caps. I looked at refurbing them (paint) or replacing with aftermarket. Didn't like anything I saw. So...
OEM bed caps and tailgate cap. Took 10 minutes and cost a fortune! lol But the originals were so faded and ug-lee!
06-16-2012, 11:39 PM
#9
Here is the latest profile..
I think it looks clean..
In case anyone was wondering..no I have not gotten new tires yet. Still running the factory ones from 06 lol. Dots and all! But very soon getting new ceramic pads, vented drilled rotors, and some new rubber!!
**Top tip for F150 owners!! I've seen a lot of faded trim and just recently found a cure! I tried back to black and some junk by turtle wax. Everything sucked and would wash off in a light drizzle. This stuff is amazing..
Dries, dry! No oily slimy nasty half greyish funk!
They don't pay me (wish they would). This stuff lasts through a few rains and a washing. Dries to a sheen but feels totally smooth and non-greasy feel. Just hyped up because I found something that worked lol
**Oh yeah I forgot. I did have the front windows tinted to 40%..NC gets sort of crazy over tint. Wanted darker but I have seen people pulled and forced to rip their tint off within 24 hours. Just stayin over 35%.
Tell me what you guys think of the truck so far..suggestions, comments..blow me up
I think it looks clean..
In case anyone was wondering..no I have not gotten new tires yet. Still running the factory ones from 06 lol. Dots and all! But very soon getting new ceramic pads, vented drilled rotors, and some new rubber!!
**Top tip for F150 owners!! I've seen a lot of faded trim and just recently found a cure! I tried back to black and some junk by turtle wax. Everything sucked and would wash off in a light drizzle. This stuff is amazing..
Dries, dry! No oily slimy nasty half greyish funk!
They don't pay me (wish they would). This stuff lasts through a few rains and a washing. Dries to a sheen but feels totally smooth and non-greasy feel. Just hyped up because I found something that worked lol
**Oh yeah I forgot. I did have the front windows tinted to 40%..NC gets sort of crazy over tint. Wanted darker but I have seen people pulled and forced to rip their tint off within 24 hours. Just stayin over 35%.
Tell me what you guys think of the truck so far..suggestions, comments..blow me up
