Boostr's 15 2.7 EB XLT Build
#11
Senior Member
Thanks, The plate mod was my own idea, but here is the hardware I bought to do it.
Went to my local HD and picked up 2 #10-32 x 5/8 expansion/well nuts, 2 10-32 x 3/4" SS socket cap screws (The expansion/ well nuts and screws came from the specialty fastener drawer) and a bag of SS #10 washers. For Installation a drill, 3/8 drill bit and a 1/8" allen wrench.
Just make sure you have no sensors behind the bumper insert. I used a torpedo level to make sure the plate and holes lined up square. Just drill the holes and insert the well nuts, but don't use any silicone in the holes or the well nuts will keep spinning when you try to tighten them and they won't expand. Once I had the plate on I bent it a little to follow the contour of the bumper and then wrapped the plate with a silicone license plate frame from Auto Zone to give it a cleaner look. The plate is on there pretty good. I check it on occasion to see if it's come lose, but it's still nice and snug.
Went to my local HD and picked up 2 #10-32 x 5/8 expansion/well nuts, 2 10-32 x 3/4" SS socket cap screws (The expansion/ well nuts and screws came from the specialty fastener drawer) and a bag of SS #10 washers. For Installation a drill, 3/8 drill bit and a 1/8" allen wrench.
Just make sure you have no sensors behind the bumper insert. I used a torpedo level to make sure the plate and holes lined up square. Just drill the holes and insert the well nuts, but don't use any silicone in the holes or the well nuts will keep spinning when you try to tighten them and they won't expand. Once I had the plate on I bent it a little to follow the contour of the bumper and then wrapped the plate with a silicone license plate frame from Auto Zone to give it a cleaner look. The plate is on there pretty good. I check it on occasion to see if it's come lose, but it's still nice and snug.
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KillinTime (09-04-2018)
#12
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#14
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#15
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KillinTime (09-05-2018)
#17
Installed the Ford tail gate assist. Pretty simple job, did need to use my impact driver to crack loose the 2 torx screws holding the hinge bracket. Alot easier than the Deeze assist cause you don't have to worry about trying to get that funky nut in place. Removing the tailgate was pretty easy once you get under the bed to disco the camera and power lock cable. The tailgate itself is pretty light for what it is. Then removing the tail light housing(pretty neat how the strut is hidden)which wasn't though at all. Took about 45 minutes total, probably quicker if I had everything with me.
Clip of Tailgate in (slow) action...
https://youtu.be/0yZTfVNDHo0
Clip of Tailgate in (slow) action...
https://youtu.be/0yZTfVNDHo0
Last edited by apisarski; 09-13-2018 at 12:22 PM. Reason: forgot quote
#18
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Thread Starter
I purchased it on Amazon for around 59 bucks, but looks like it's gone up a few bucks. CJ Pony Parts has it it for $59. It's well worth the money though.
#20
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Boostr
I purchased it on Amazon for around 59 bucks, but looks like it's gone up a few bucks. CJ Pony Parts has it it for $59. It's well worth the money though.
Pricing May of '17
$13.13 - Roller Part #FL3Z-83430B38-B
$19.44 - Support Strut Part #FL3Z-99442A38-A
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Boostr (01-12-2021)