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All tested OK except for reverse tilt mirrors and quick boot. Autofold mirrors took several ignition on/off cycles before it started working, but now it's working consistently. I'll go back into ForSCAN to recheck the values when I get the chance.
On order: 10 quarts of Mobil 5W-20, Motorcraft oil filter, Hellwig rear sway bar.
Last edited by DeltaNu1142; 05-15-2018 at 06:49 PM.
First oil change. I installed a Fumoto F-107N and used about 7.7 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-20 full synthetic with a Motocraft FL500S filter.
Notes:
Those fancy oil drain channels for the filter don't do a great job of keeping the oil off the top of my OEM skid plate. The rear one, especially, spattered enough oil on the plate that I had to remove and clean it. Next time, I'll use a foil funnel to keep things clean.
When I started the engine and checked the dipstick after refilling, the oil level was about 3" above the upper fill mark. I wiped it and rechecked three times... same result. I shut it down and put away tools. After a few minutes, I checked the dipstick again and it was dead in between the two fill marks. I wiped and confirmed. Whew.
I received my "used" Hellwig RSB from Amazon. Aside from the poor packaging, it doesn't look like anyone outside of the factory has touched it.
I had planned to install it tonight, but I liked the idea I saw in the Hellwig thread about plastidipping the U-bolts prior to the install to keep rust at bay. This is gunmetal:
I also tested the Secure Idle setting I changed in ForSCAN the other day. With the truck in the driveway and the engine running, I put the fob in the garage. I returned the the truck and I couldn't get it out of Park. It even displays a "No key detected" message. Cool!
I installed the Hellwig rear sway bar tonight. It went together fine, but as I'm sitting here I realize I didn't cut off the leads for the clevis backing plates. I guess I've got to do that tomorrow.
The only trouble I had was when tightening the first U-bolt around the axle, my wrench slipped and I bashed myself straight in the face. I've got a decent cut straight across the bridge of my nose, and it bled for a solid ten minutes.
I went for a 2-mile test drive through the neighborhood and didn't notice much difference... but I didn't get above 25 mph and didn't take any fast corners. Most importantly, though, no clunking or banging. Everything's on tight.
I wouldnt worry to much about some old motor oil dripping down in the skid plate... Prevents rust, thats why some people wipe down their under carriage in gear oil.
Wheels and tires on the way; to be installed by next weekend.
I was cutting the leads on the backing bolts for the sway bar end link mounts, and I noticed a lot of surface rust on the end link threads. It's weird how it just stops 3/4 of the way up. All this is from three weeks of relatively dry driving. I did a 500-mile round trip to Ft Lauderdale a few weeks back, though, which helped me rack up over 1,000 miles in that time.
I took some fine steel wool to the threads, which didn't do much, and then applied some grease for protectant. I'll use this as documentation in a conversation with Hellwig if it gets much worse.
Photo of grease applied...
I also reapplied the passenger-side FX4 decal. We'll see how long it is before I change my mind again. This one looks just like the OEM one on the other side in daylight... but I don't remember the OEM decal being reflective. Maybe it's a trick of the flash. I dunno.
Last edited by DeltaNu1142; 01-29-2017 at 06:32 PM.
Reason: added photos
I put this together today. I'm thinking about sticking it to the top of my existing engine compartment fuse box. All I have planned currently is a small air horn and some lighting, but this will give me room for expansion.
Method Roost 18x9 +18 in bronze. Getting them installed tomorrow wrapped in 305/70/18 BFG KO2's, tied on with Gorilla spline drive lug nuts and McGard locks.
Last edited by DeltaNu1142; 02-02-2017 at 07:31 AM.
01-02-2017, 09:15 AM
