This is a guide on replacing the door check
in a 2004-2008 Ford F150! It is a fairly straightforward and easy job, and should only take about 15-20 minutes. The method may be the same for other years, but this guide was done on a 2004 F150 (Driver's side) and the part mentioned is listed for 2004-2008.
These door checks tend to break and lead to loud popping sounds when opening/closing the door. They serve to keep your door from opening too far, and a broken door check can lead to door damage!
So let's get started!!!
(may also be found as simply 22886)
It is available from Ford Parts for about $45, but I managed to find a new one on eBay for $35 shipped. It will work on either the LH or RH side, it is the same part for both sides.
What to do
- T30 torx bit (or torx allen wrench)
- 10mm socket
- Eye protection (doesn't matter what job you're doing or how simple it is, protect your eyes!!!)
- A rag, or a friend to hold the door
Before you begin, have a friend or spouse available to hold the door steady and prevent it from opening too far when you start taking things apart. If you're doing this solo, stuff a rag or towel or some kind of padding down in this area right behind the lower door hinge:
Pack some padding in there as best you can, and be careful while working around the door for the next few minutes. If you look closely you can see where my door has contacted the hinge and caused a little bit of damage. Be careful not to let any section of the front edge of the door hit the body of the truck after you start removing the door check!
Here is the door check. Everything that needs to be loosened is right here on the outside. Two torx bolts connect the arm of the door check to the door, and two 10mm nuts fasten the other end of the door check (the end with the metal housing) to the inside of the truck body:
Now before we unbolt anything, let's take a look up under the dash and see about getting to the metal housing end of the door check that is hidden away inside the body panel.
You do not
need to remove any components of the parking brake assembly. I have seen other people suggest this, but it is simply not necessary. All you need to do inside the driver's side kick panel is move a black foam covering out of the way and that will allow you to access the rest of the door check mechanism.
Slide your front seat all the way back and wiggle up the floorboard on your back until you can see up inside the paneling:
You are looking for a black foam covering that is plugging 2 holes in the paneling. It is hinged in the center, and you only need to move the largest section out of the way. Just work it out and fold it over and out of the way:
Once that is out of the way, you'll just barely be able to see the top of the metal portion of the door check sitting just inside the opening:
Fortunately, you don't need to get back there with any tools or anything; everything that needs unbolting is done on the outside. You just need to be able to get a hand in there to wiggle the old unit out and the new unit in.
Behind the black foam cover you can see the metal housing of the door check sitting inside the panel:
Once that cover is out of the way and you're able to reach the metal housing of the door check, you can work on unbolting it. Start by removing the 2 black torx bolts that are holding the arm of the door check to the door by using a T30 torx bit or allen.
Once those torx bolts are off, the door is free to open further than it normally should, and you should check your rag placement again if you're working alone. Gently let the door open as far as it will go, and make sure you've got enough padding down there to prevent damage. Also, check the rest of the front door edge and make sure it isn't going to contact the body of the truck anywhere else. On my truck, that spot down by the lower hinge seemed to be the first and only point of contact.
Now remove the 10mm nuts holding the metal housing end of the door check to the body:
Once those are free, the unit is ready to come out. I found it was easiest if I sat on the door sill and reached in through the panels with my right arm, and used my left hand to feed the door check arm into the hole & guide the unit to my right hand. Once you've got a firm grasp on the metal housing of the door check from the inside, lift up on it as you continue to back the arm out through the hole and you should have plenty of clearance to pull the arm section all the way through.
Once it's out of the truck, you can clear away any of the remaining foam barrier stuck inside the hole (the new part should have a new section of foam barrier pre-installed):
Now you are ready to install the new part. Make sure you have the orientation right; use the door check on your other door for reference if you need. This will save you the hassle of having to reach back up in there and flip it over. If you look at where the arm connects to the truck door with those black torx bolts, the end of the arm pivots. You want the rounded edge of that pivot to be facing towards the rear of the truck when the door check is installed and the door is open. Take a look at some of the previous pictures again and notice the end of the arm and the rounded edge of the pivot.
Installation is just the reverse of the removal. Be careful not to drop the door check down inside the panels! Keep a firm grasp on it, have a seat on the door sill again, and wiggle it up through that inner panel opening and feed the arm out the hole to your other hand.
Once it is through, hold the unit in place with your left hand, check to make sure the new foam barrier is seated properly, and start threading the 10mm nuts back on:
Tighten them up nice and tight with your ratchet, and then bolt the arm tightly back onto the truck door with the T30 torx bolts.
Crawl onto the floorboard and reach back up in the paneling, and press that black foam covering back into place. Work it back into position and make sure it forms a nice seal.
And you're done! Simple! Remove the rag and check the motion of the door, and make sure it does not allow the door to open too far and contact the body of the truck at any point. It should be smooth and pop-free now.
Thank you for reading, hope it helps!