2013 f-150 xlt dash removal for amp and boost gauge
#1
2013 f-150 xlt dash removal for amp and boost gauge
1. remove (2) 7mm bolts on top of cluster(will need to set parking brake and put into neutral to pop it out)
*(unplug battery)*
2. pop off vent panel, 4wd, and trailer brake cover
3. open bottom tray under radio there is (2)7mm bolts one on each side.
4. open glove box and pop it out of the dash so its hanging from the hinge
5. remove 3 bolts holding air bag in 8mm i believe
6. push out airbag from the bottom and set aside
7. remove the one 7mm bolt holding the other side panel for 12v power
8. pop off the side panel like the other on the driver side
9. remove both 7mm on top that were hidden by the side panels
10. pop out front cd player cover
also the plug connector in the back does not work with metra BT5520 harness but the color coding is the same from prior years. i installed a converter into the front speakers so i can get right and left RCA wires.
i also wired in a boost gauge power(electric) and signal wiring for amp to the trailer brake(white wire).
for the boost gauge ford deleted a lot of vacuum lines in the 2013 vs my old 2011. they have one line coming from passenger side turbo and one from the intake tube going to air box and then they go to a sensor/control valve. Then to the wastegates. i T'd the boost line on the pressure pipe on the passenger side. only downside is it only sees boost not vacuum.
(gauge was custom made by speedhut)
*(unplug battery)*
2. pop off vent panel, 4wd, and trailer brake cover
3. open bottom tray under radio there is (2)7mm bolts one on each side.
4. open glove box and pop it out of the dash so its hanging from the hinge
5. remove 3 bolts holding air bag in 8mm i believe
6. push out airbag from the bottom and set aside
7. remove the one 7mm bolt holding the other side panel for 12v power
8. pop off the side panel like the other on the driver side
9. remove both 7mm on top that were hidden by the side panels
10. pop out front cd player cover
also the plug connector in the back does not work with metra BT5520 harness but the color coding is the same from prior years. i installed a converter into the front speakers so i can get right and left RCA wires.
i also wired in a boost gauge power(electric) and signal wiring for amp to the trailer brake(white wire).
for the boost gauge ford deleted a lot of vacuum lines in the 2013 vs my old 2011. they have one line coming from passenger side turbo and one from the intake tube going to air box and then they go to a sensor/control valve. Then to the wastegates. i T'd the boost line on the pressure pipe on the passenger side. only downside is it only sees boost not vacuum.
(gauge was custom made by speedhut)
Last edited by redstanger; 12-11-2012 at 03:26 PM.
#3
I am looking to do this in a couple days when the vent pod arrives. Do you have any pictures of where you tapped into the vacuum lines? Also what size fittings did you use? Thanks for the help!
#4
i also wired in a boost gauge power(electric) and signal wiring for amp to the trailer brake(white wire).
for the boost gauge ford deleted a lot of vacuum lines in the 2013 vs my old 2011. they have one line coming from passenger side turbo and one from the intake tube going to air box and then they go to a sensor/control valve. Then to the wastegates. i T'd the boost line on the pressure pipe on the passenger side. only downside is it only sees boost not vacuum.
(gauge was custom made by speedhut)
How did you set yours up to function and how's it working out?
As far as the vac line I'll be doing something different than you did, as I want the vac side of the gauge to be functional.
Last edited by thecause17; 03-22-2013 at 06:42 PM.
#7
It will not. Just returned mine. I used a cheap line out converter from best buy (15$) on the rear speaker leads in the wiring harness and tap a fuse (small one) on fuse 38 for the turn on. Only took the dash apart five times getting it all right. But tonight, success!! Bought a preloaded pioneer 10" sub in slim down firing box. Seems to work well. Will be able to break it in this weekend on a four hour drive to Oregon and back.
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#8
Moved to correct section