techrep

iTrader: (1)

Original would of been SP507 .. they are the 2 piece plug that likes to break.. the replacement plug is the SP515.. which don't break.. if your 08 motor was built after 10/09/07 you would have SP509's. so if you pulled SP515's out of your motor they had already been replaced before. That's why none broke.

lostalien

So now you got me thinking, what the hell did I pull out of the engine. I went digging in the trash and pulled the old plugs out. They are PZT14F, hmmmm. Pic attached.




Motorcraft PZT14F

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Those are the newer plug SP515..

gvanmeter1

New member here. 06 lariat 99k. I bought it new and have taken very good care of it. It only has 99k in 11 years. Great write up with the pictures! I have read everything I could find on line about this issue and watched a lot of U-tube vid. There seems to be so many different ways to do this. I bought the lisle tool and the new Motorcraft 515 plugs and was determined to do this myself rather than pay dealer a grand. They quoted me 700 for new plugs and COPS if they all came out easy. Add $100 for each one that broke, and it they could not get the broken plug out on first try they will pull the head. I followed the TSB on the first one, #5 on DS front. Tried to crack it with 3/8 ratchet on cold engine. No go. Had to use cheater bar to crack it, and boy did it crack! I could tell right away that it broke so I went ahead and tried to remove it but it would not come all the way out. It was loose, the nut was but the porcelain was still stuck in the hole, was able to use long reach pliers to yank on it to get it to break off, then used the lisle tool to remove the tip that was still in the hole. #6 no better, cracked it and sprayed it down with card cleaner and PB Blaster, kept moving it back and forth and it felt like it was coming out, but ended being same as first one, porcelain stuck. This one was a B****! Kept trying to pull on it with long needle nose pliers and finally got it out and used the lisle tool. So after spending 5 exhausting hours to get the first 2 out, and they were the easiest to reach, I stopped. Next day I tried the hot engine method on #7, cracked it open with a torque wrench set on 25 ft lbs so I would not break it. Sprayed carb cleaner in the well and it started boiling, than I sprayed some PB in and let it soak for 30 min and then moved it back and forth. I thought this one was going to work but it was same result. Could not get the darn porcelain out of the hole. The nut would just spin, could not get to it with the pliers and tried many different ways to make it break off so I could use the lisle tool. Finally put flat blade screwdriver against it and snapped it off. Lisle tool has a hard time with this one, crushed two of the nylon washers where they squeezed out around the nut on the lisle and would not let my socket get a bite on it. Finally had to remove the nylon nut and use steel washer that I had to modify to go past the COP hold down screw port. My question is, how to get the porcelain out when the threads of the plug break loose from the plug?

twist_off

Just changed the originals in my 04 with 158,000. (that's gotta be close to a record) Long story short, use the hot method with impact. I started slow using the Ford TSB, soak, cold engine method. Broke 4 in a row. After replacing the broken ones with new ones I said screw it, fired the engine up, and got it hot. Using an impact, I zipped the rest out without breaking any. Ford not only screwed the pooch with the design of these plugs, they can't get their removal method right either.

gvanmeter1

I tried the hot engine method, both with impact tool, and just regular ratchet and they still broke.

wantitfixed

I broke all 8 plugs; even after using the carb cleaner and the lubricant. Slowly turning with plug socket, every one of them broke. At least I am consistent.
I was able to use LISLE LIS65600 to get the remainder of the plugs out of the motor with the exception of one. Feels like it gets a bite on the shell and I get it tight enough only to come loose when doing the last step. I have tried to get the shell removed for the last two days now. I even went as far as putting a little JB weld on the tool and leaving it over night in the shell. Still not coming out.
Short of anything drastic, is there anyone that can tell me how to get that thing removed? It seems like such a waste of time and money if all I can get changed is 7 out of 8 plugs. I really don't want to have to remove the head or take it to a shop. I have actually been at this whole process for 7 days now. Something has to work for this last one.

twist_off

Sounds like the electrode stayed with the porcelain in the head. Regardless this guy knows his stuff and he shows how to possibly get it out...and it's not pretty.

wantitfixed

Electrode came out with the top portion. As stated in my original post, I have already used the Lisle tool. That was the tool that retrieved all of the other 7. I have seen that video and there is nothing in that video that I have not done.
Thanks for the reply though.

wantitfixed

I spoke too quickly on this. When I saw the Lisle tool I thought that this was the same thing I already completed. Went back and watched the video. Order the but bit today. Hopefully this will get the last shell out. I will update the post next week after I get my new tool.

Thanks for the reply. Next time I will look at everything before posting a response.