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Resolution to "squealing noise"!!

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Old 01-30-2018, 08:04 PM
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Just picked up a 2013 Lariat with 150K miles. I've got more of a "chirp" that reminds me of a blow off valve or such...at lower RPM/speed. Anyone think this may be smilier? Def not a "squeal" but more of a chirp at loads/shifts.

Thanks!
Old 01-31-2018, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by carboncow
Just picked up a 2013 Lariat with 150K miles. I've got more of a "chirp" that reminds me of a blow off valve or such...at lower RPM/speed. Anyone think this may be smilier? Def not a "squeal" but more of a chirp at loads/shifts.

Thanks!
Does it sound like this...this is what mine sounded like with a bad manifold.

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Old 02-01-2018, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jdunk54nl
Does it sound like this...this is what mine sounded like with a bad manifold.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c78au9ImjYc
Man, that could be it. I now see the write ups on manifolds and gaskets. I also see some guys saying a bad turbo shaft and it can cause the "dentist drill" sound...not sure which it is. I guess the short answer is it's most likely NOT a BOV sound then?

I found a reman turbo online for $250. I"m half tempted to just do it all as I had todo the manifold and find out the turbo is wonky too!
Old 02-01-2018, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by carboncow
Man, that could be it. I now see the write ups on manifolds and gaskets. I also see some guys saying a bad turbo shaft and it can cause the "dentist drill" sound...not sure which it is. I guess the short answer is it's most likely NOT a BOV sound then?

I found a reman turbo online for $250. I"m half tempted to just do it all as I had todo the manifold and find out the turbo is wonky too!
The exhaust manifold is a quick and easy check. You can do so much like you find a hole in a tire. Spray the manifold with soapy water and see if it bubbles. If so then it is most likely the cause. If not then look elsewhere.

You don't need to rev it to get it to bubble. All the revving does is pushes more air through it to make it "squeal."
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Old 02-02-2018, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jdunk54nl
The exhaust manifold is a quick and easy check. You can do so much like you find a hole in a tire. Spray the manifold with soapy water and see if it bubbles. If so then it is most likely the cause. If not then look elsewhere.

You don't need to rev it to get it to bubble. All the revving does is pushes more air through it to make it "squeal."
Discussing the test and posible fix with my buddy once we can some time in early spring. Two questions came up...

1. Where is it best todo the bubble test? Below, top or through fender cover?
2. Any negative to letting this chirp go for awhile? I think mine is pretty mild compared to many I've listed to on Youtube.
3. Did you or anyone on here have a bad stud as the issue...seeing several on Youtube with broken stuffs. Easy to solve?

Thx.

Last edited by carboncow; 02-02-2018 at 10:23 AM.
Old 02-02-2018, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by carboncow
Discussing the test and posible fix with my buddy once we can some time in early spring. Two questions came up...

1. Where is it best todo the bubble test? Below, top or through fender cover?
2. Any negative to letting this chirp go for awhile? I think mine is pretty mild compared to many I've listed to on Youtube.
3. Did you or anyone on here have a bad stud as the issue...seeing several on Youtube with broken stuffs. Easy to solve?

Thx.
Without taking things apart, it's hard to get a good view of the manifolds. The manifolds usually fail at the rear of the manifold (closest to the firewall). As a quick check, you can start recording video on your phone, reach your arm down to the area with the phone and "look" around. You might be able to see signs of carbon on the plate where the manifold attaches. Like I did in this post --> https://www.f150forum.com/f38/ecoboo...ration-393112/.
Old 02-02-2018, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by carboncow
Discussing the test and posible fix with my buddy once we can some time in early spring. Two questions came up...

1. Where is it best todo the bubble test? Below, top or through fender cover?
2. Any negative to letting this chirp go for awhile? I think mine is pretty mild compared to many I've listed to on Youtube.
3. Did you or anyone on here have a bad stud as the issue...seeing several on Youtube with broken stuffs. Easy to solve?

Thx.
1) Wherever you can actually see. If you find it is leaking on the top than that is best spot, but it might be leaking from the bottom so you need to go under etc.

2) I don't think so....but I could be wrong.

3)I don't think so, the dealer replaced mine under their 3 month 4,000 mile used car warranty so I didn't really ask questions. (I did get a new driver side turbo out of it too as they misdiagnosed the sound as that first)
Old 02-10-2018, 09:01 AM
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This thread convinced me to trade my 2011 EB at 65K 3 years ago because I had the sound, the dealer said it was the vacuum pump, replaced it for $700 and it didn't change a thing. I am sure it was a warped exhaust manifold as I had towed a 10K fiver up and down mountains for 3 years. Almost 3 years and 48K on the 2015 F350 Powerstroke now.
It reminded me of my 1972 Honda CB500 with a slipping clutch that had been replaced repeatedly. I asked the Honda tech if there was a more permanent fix and he said, "yes, a CB550." So the fix for Gen 1 3.5L EB is the 2017+ Gen 2 3.5L EB.

Last edited by SkiSmuggs; 02-10-2018 at 09:05 AM.
Old 02-10-2018, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by SkiSmuggs
This thread convinced me to trade my 2011 EB at 65K 3 years ago because I had the sound, the dealer said it was the vacuum pump, replaced it for $700 and it didn't change a thing. I am sure it was a warped exhaust manifold as I had towed a 10K fiver up and down mountains for 3 years. Almost 3 years and 48K on the 2015 F350 Powerstroke now.
It reminded me of my 1972 Honda CB500 with a slipping clutch that had been replaced repeatedly. I asked the Honda tech if there was a more permanent fix and he said, "yes, a CB550." So the fix for Gen 1 3.5L EB is the 2017+ Gen 2 3.5L EB.
Yeah it's a bummer if you cannot wrench yourself and dealers are pretty much just part bolter on guys who have very little insight unless it comes down from tech bulletins. Watch the video out there on which engine is better (5.0 and 3.5) at the dealer where they ask "the techs" and almost everyone says 5.0 but not from experience wrenching on it...but from ignorance as they all say the 5.0 has more power and is better at towing. Dealer techs are hit or miss and love to just bolt stuff on/off/on/off/on...
Old 02-11-2018, 07:42 AM
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I saw that video and had to laugh. It's like asking a fuel tanker driver which is the best gas to use.
The worst I experienced was when they replaced my over gapped plugs at 42K, I told them about the spark blow out from being over gapped. Mine were all over .040 and two had the electrodes about gone. When I had them replace plugs at 60K because one was missing, I got it back with 3 of them missing. Pulled them myself and they were way over torqued which had cracked the porcelain. Replaced them myself but called the service department to tell them that it only took 11 ft/lbs. The service guy told me they put them in tighter due to reports of spark plug blow out! They completely misunderstood what I had told them previously.

Last edited by SkiSmuggs; 02-11-2018 at 07:51 AM.
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