maplelakeduckslayer

He explains it very well in Fight Club haha


My truck sat about 11.5 hrs last night and I had just a very very faint rattle, barely noticeable. Still trying to get it to sit 12-14 hours to make sure it is making it better. Its probably still sealing and doing its thing anyways so need to give it some more time. I can always add a little bit more of the product, at about 20% of the oil capacity now.

huntnrig

Unless you have a dealer that is willing to eat the cost of basically replacing the engine there is no other fix that works at this point. Ford Engineering is going to shut your service manager down and tell them not to do anything on the truck. At that point your dealership won't be paid for any of the work/parts.

In Canada CAMVAP is your only route but be sure to read the fine print. I had more documentation then anyone on this issue (posting in forums anyways) and I still felt pretty strongly they would have used the special clause "we're working on a fix" to tie the arbitrators hands on doing anything. With a buyback claim (if the truck is eligible) it's handled a little differently than a repair order and I feel pretty strongly that this problem would qualify for the buyback if you had your ducks in a row.

Keep posting videos and keep putting pressure. I hope the issue can be pin-pointed and solved.

maplelakeduckslayer

Truck sat 13 hours overnight and with the Lucas Oil Stabilizer in there it did not rattle this morning. I will give it a week or two and post an update. Must just be oil drain down.


Sure, maybe this is a band aid and theres a part that is weak allowing that oil to drain out...tensioner or whatever. But if its holding oil pressure during a sit that's all I care about. Just don't want dry starts.

winchested

Good news maple.

Just some interesting things I have found.

Yes, but what about Lucas Oil Stabilizer?
Isn't it used extensively in drag racing? Yes it is, and it's a unique category in oil additives with a milder version of deception. With high-alcohol fuels and high horsepower, there is a huge problem with the engine oil becoming rapidly diluted (thinned out) by the alcohol. To combat this problem, drag racers commonly use a very heavy racing oil (like 60 weight), then add Lucas to the oil because it increases the viscosity even more. That way, as the oil is being rapidly diluted going down the dragstrip, when they back off the throttle it might be a 30 or 40 weight oil instead of a 10 or 20 weight oil that would allow a lot of engine damage.

Now, what does ANY of that have to do with your vehicle? NOTHING ! Adding their product to your oil will increase the weight (viscosity) of your engine oil, which will decrease your fuel economy and increase your oil pressure. Increasing the oil pressure beyond the 30 or 40 weight that the engine's designed for doesn't help you. In fact, it's a negative because it adds load to your starter and battery, especially in cold weather, and it makes your engine wear faster. That's right - your engine wears faster for two main reasons: because during cold starts it takes longer to get the oil to all the components, and the higher oil pressure drop across your oil filter means that more of the oil will bypass the filter than normally occurs while your engine is warming up during driving. So you're pumping additional wear particles through the engine rather than filtering them out.

The deception is that they want you to assume that what's good in a top-fuel dragster is good for your engine, without actually making that claim on their bottle.
Lubrication engineers say: Motor oils, transmission fluids and gear lubes are carefully designed and balanced lubrication packages that are scientifically formulated and rigorously tested. Want better performance? Buy a better product whose performance is proven by industry standardized testing. Please DON'T be fooled by oil additives!


Oh and there is now a Pure synthetic version in place of the Heavy Duty for engines that require 5w20 and 5w30. Is that what you used?

maplelakeduckslayer

No in Winter I don't plan on running any additives as the oil stays thick enough to hold pressure. You cannot run the original oil stabilizer in weather below 5 degrees, its too thick. So most likely I will stop using this in October.


I am running the original.


The reason I used this product is because several people who work on high mileage vehicles recommended it (like 250k plus miles), not from internet googling and I hate racing so the drag cars didn't persuade me. I don't see an issue with this product if you are running it according to directions(replace 20% capacity of oil) and running it in warmer temperatures. And its actually marketed towards truckers as its available in many truck stops.


With fuel dilution in these trucks a 5W-30 is going to be thinner anyway. You are just bumping that back up a little. And if thicker does cause damage, well pick your poison I guess. Dry starts causing damage, or too thick of oil causing damage. But I really don't think its too thick.


So far my truck is happy with this product. Not only does it appear the rattle is gone it idles smoother too. My mileage appears unchanged. Like I said, I don't care if I'm the guinea pig or only one who runs this I have nothing to lose. I feel better having the timing chain tight and oil in the top end at start up than starting it dry.

winchested

Yes based on your results I may start running the pure synthetic version. I have seen the test demos that show how sticky the oil becomes.

Stu Cazzo

I couldn't read all 1200+ posts.
The Coles Notes version?

Whats the problem? is it oil or timing chain/belt ? and is there a fix?

maplelakeduckslayer

Could be several issues. Timing chains are stretching throwing off timing. But replacing chain and tensioner still has a start up rattle. Appears this rattle is caused by a drain down of oil while sitting.

Are all of these interconnected? Dry starts excessively wearing chains throwing timing off? I dunno. Fuel dilution plays a role as well. And extended oil change intervals are bad.

vozaday

Darn, I was hoping it would.

I wonder what the difference between that customers and yours?

The fuel additive idea seems like a neat idea. But if it is losing oil pressure then why not just do the gas peddle start method to get oil circulating first. Or are you guys thinking that still isn't helping enough?

maplelakeduckslayer

I dunno, even while driving now my truck feels better with this additive, like higher oil pressure is helping. It idles so much smoother. Just feels better. And I did 95 miles today in rain and stop/go traffic and got 19 MPG. So this product is definitely not affecting mpgs. I am loving it.


I'd still like to figure out why exactly it loses pressure while sitting though, and why the first 84,000 miles of ownership it didn't happen. Clearances opening up in the engine over time?