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Soo.. Long-time reader, first-time poster. What follows are instructions for installing a holster in the console of a 2012 F150 Lariat Screw. This is a very simple and easy install, and what may make it a little unique is that I consider it completely reversible. It requires neither disassembly of the console, nor drilling.
I've seen others do a similar setup, but there are inevitably questions about which way to get it done, etc. This forum is great, and I've learned A LOT by reading what others are doing. This mod is leveraging the work of others on this forum. A million thank-yous for that education, and I hope to post on other mods to give back a little more in the future.
Background of Problem: I occasionally carry, and when I do it's usually in a 4 o'clock IWB holster. This isn't comfortable for long drives, which leaves me needing somewhere to properly transport it while in the truck.
Alternatives Considered: You can buy a few products specifically designed for automobile transport of a firearm, including bolt-in console safes, under-dash and seat-attached holsters. I don't live under a state regime where a firearm needs to be secured six ways to Sunday while in a vehicle, so that flexibility allows me to pursue a solution that, for me, best balances ready access, concealment, and safety. A console safe is right-out on that count. The under-dash and seat holsters are attractive because they're easy to install, but most I've seen have one big problem - prying eyes in a parking lot can easily see the rig when you enter and exit the vehicle, and may be able to see the under-dash setup even when the vehicle is unoccupied. YMMV - these are just my opinions/observations.
Why I Chose the Console Rig: I really liked the holster systems I've seen in the consoles. However, they aren't the most ergonomic to use under duress - you have to open the large console lid, get your hand in there and draw out at an angle that's probably unhealthy for your shoulder. However, this console rig as described:
Keeps a stored firearm concealed from view
Can be locked to prevent casual discovery
Is out of reach for a person at the window exterior
Provides convenient, if not the quickest, access for the driver
Uses a system allowing any compatible holster to be swapped out, giving driver flexibility in which carry weapon they want to use without having to redo the mod itself.
The Solution:
Like others I've seen here, a rig based on the Blackhawk Serpa system makes a great deal of sense, and I think as I walk through the installation you'll see why. This mod uses industrial-strength velcro to attach to the side-wall of the console, and while you may think this would be a set-up for failure, it's proven itself well, with zero failures under load, rough terrain and cold climate down to 20F thus far.
Mod Instructions
Parts Used:
BLACKHAWK! Serpa CQC Concealment Holster (Matte Finish) - $50 List
BLACKHAWK! Quick Disconnect System Kit - $42 List
~3"x3" of industrial-strength Velcro Tape - $35 for 15'
~3"x3" piece of 1x3 lumber - nominal cost/scrap
3 screws - nominal cost
Total Cost - About $100-ish
This may seem expensive, but keep in mind that most of this stuff is dual-use. All parts of the quick disconnect system, with the exception of one female socket are readily usable outside of the truck in other carry configurations, as is the holster itself. Obviously the more applications you have for the Serpa system, or if you already use it, the cheaper this becomes.
The wood and screws are probably lying around your garage somewhere.
I happened to have the velcro on hand as general garage stock (See! I found a use for it! ), so this was all sunk cost.
The basic steps are as follows -
Parts assembly:
Cut 1x3 stock to a length suitable for mounting the QD female socket. The measurements above in the parts list are approximate, and the photos below should give you an idea of the dimensions. Just make sure your dimensions allow the "ears" of the QD socket to overhang the wood block on either side so you can more easily disconnect the holster in the future as needed. See photos for example
Attach female quick disconnect (QD) socket to wood block with screws
On reverse side of wood block, rough up surface and apply industrial strength velcro (hook side) using some loctite (now wood block is sandwiched between the QD socket on one side and velcro on the other)
Adhere the industrial strength velcro (loop side) to left interior wall of console, using the adhesive backing on the velcro strip (no loctite required here). Placement will vary according to your needs. See notes/tips below for some thoughts on this.
Attach male QD onto Serpa holster per QD kit instructions
Installation:
Wood block attaches to inside of console via industrial-strength velcro (stuff is tough). This will likely never be taken apart again until you decide to reverse the mod.
Serpa holster now snaps onto and off of the QD female socket on console wall as needed
How to Use
Normal use for me involves leaving the holster attached to the QD system in the console at all times. Entering and leaving the truck may involve transitioning the firearm between my IWB holster and the console holster as needed.
The QD is useful if you need to use the holster in another application or need to free up room in the console temporarily. It allows you to take the holster out without reversing the mod. Similarly, if you want to trade out your .45 1911 Serpa holster for your .40 Glock Serpa holster, you can do that without any rework.
Notes/Tips:
The wood block is necessary not only to give the female QD socket a good mount point, but also to set the holster off the console wall far enough so that the firearm can clear the overhanging lip at the top of the console. the 1x2 stock was sufficient for this.
I applied the loop side of the velcro to the console wall directly using the adhesive backing of the velcro with good results - i.e. the bond has not failed
This velcro is the only piece touching the vehicle, and for this reason I consider it a reversible mod. The velcro can be pealed off at some point, and any residual glue can be cleaned from the plastic wall of the console.
I first applied the hook side of the velcro directly to the wood block using the velcro's adhesive backing, and this failed after about a month of use. The weight of the loaded gun in the holster was too much for the bond. Note that out of the stack of bonds here, it was the velcro/wood bond that failed from the gun weight, not the hook/loop bond or velcro/plastic bond.
I've remedied the above by using some clear loctite between the velcro and the wood as noted in the assembly instructions. This has so far held up to both the weight of the loaded gun and cold weather (thus far tested to 20F).
The hook/loop bond is rock solid. I have no fear of this working its way apart. When taking the two pieces of velcro apart after the wood block fell off originally, I was surprised how freakin' bomb-proof that velcro connection is.
Placement of the loop-side velcro in the console will determine where the holster is positioned, and this may vary depending on the dimensions of your carry weapon. I wanted mine low enough down that I could still fit the console shelf above it (as extra concealment, for whatever reason), and far enough forward that I could conserve as much usable console space as possible.
Alternatives you may consider before starting: paint wood block black to better blend in to console wall; use a strip of loop-side velcro to run the entire top-to-bottom length of console to give you more flexibility in eventual holster placement.
Okay, now onto the pics (descriptions are ABOVE the images):
QD female socket attached to wood block. Note that the QD "ears" overhang the wood block. Cut wood accordingly, as the QD functionality is unusable if the ears are flush against the face.
Velcro is attached to reverse side of wood block with loctite. This is the weak point of the system, and the adhesive backing alone will not suffice for the wood bond.
The wood block is now sandwiched between the QD socket and the velcro
The holster clips into the female QD socket.
This is the holster in place. The loop side of the velcro is adhered to the inner console wall using its adhesive backing, which is sufficient for this bond
In future I may paint the wood block black to make it blend in better, but this way you can see the discrete parts and how they fit into the overall assembly..
Top view, looking down into console. The wood block is necessary to make sure the holster clears the lip of the console rim.
Okay, that's what I've got. Hope it's helpful to some of you and I'm happy to answer any questions as well.
Just an update - I mention that the adhesive bonds involved in this had been tested down to 20F. I have tested them down to -10F now, and no problems with the bonds. The original problem was with the adhesive backing of the industrial velcro coming off of the wood. Added loctite, and didn't expect any problems, but just documenting that there haven't been any thus far.
Also I guess I should have included the 'money' shot, which is the handgun in situ, so here it is.
XDM .40 in place, which demonstrates why you need that spacer to keep the handgun clear of the console lip
Coin tray fits over top of XDM, concealing it.
If you're familiar with the Serpa holster's retention system, the gun is released by depressing a latch with the index finger as part of the draw, leaving the index finger appropriately off the trigger when the gun comes out. Another strength to using this holster.
12-23-2014, 05:42 PM
Console Holster Mod Instructions w/Pics
), so this was all sunk cost. 
Update
